Jump to content
SAU Community

Microtek $2200 Intalled Suplied And Tuned

wannaslide

By wannaslide,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

wannaslide Contributor

wannaslide

Posted
Posted

hi i just got a price for a microtek supplied and fitted and tuned for $2200 just want to know if this is worth it (r32rb20det)at pro torqe ormeau and how good are the microteks

and yes i have allready done a search and only found something from 2005 surey the results have gotta be different by now

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

A cheaper option would be NISTune ($400, + say $50 to solder it in) + Dyno tune ($600) + (optionally) Consult cable ($100).

http://www.nistune.com/ Check the workshop link to fine who can tune it in your area.

wannaslide Contributor

wannaslide

Posted
  • Author
Posted
A cheaper option would be NISTune ($400, + say $50 to solder it in) + Dyno tune ($600) + (optionally) Consult cable ($100).

http://www.nistune.com/ Check the workshop link to fine who can tune it in your area.

thanx mate but there too far away pro torqe is only likr 10 min drive from my house

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

$2200 is a mighty outlay for a RB20 equipped car... and with a ECU thats, well, average. Hmm.

What level of mods is it at?

What mods do you plan in the future??

If your only running a stock turbo (or even a medium upgrade) i personally couldnt justfiy spending that much and would go with a remap anyday even if it meant driving 1.5hrs.

wannaslide Contributor

wannaslide

Posted
  • Author
Posted
$2200 is a mighty outlay for a RB20 equipped car... and with a ECU thats, well, average. Hmm.

What level of mods is it at?

What mods do you plan in the future??

If your only running a stock turbo (or even a medium upgrade) i personally couldnt justfiy spending that much and would go with a remap anyday even if it meant driving 1.5hrs.

well i have a fmic exhaust pod filter . but i was going to get a kkr430 534cc sard injectors and a new fuel pump and triy and get tuned with the standard ecu but he said it wouldnt run right and if i go bigger injectors that i will need a new computer so then i said what about just a turbo and fuel pump and he said i would be better off getting the computer done and then get that stuff later he also said the standard turbo would be fine on 14 psi rb20 turbo that is

wannaslide Contributor

wannaslide

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
thanx mate but there too far away pro torqe is only likr 10 min drive from my house

scrap that just read that efi is moving to yattala soon might give them a call tomorrow thanx mate

Edited by wannaslide
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
well i have a fmic exhaust pod filter . but i was going to get a kkr430 534cc sard injectors and a new fuel pump and triy and get tuned with the standard ecu but he said it wouldnt run right and if i go bigger injectors that i will need a new computer so then i said what about just a turbo and fuel pump and he said i would be better off getting the computer done and then get that stuff later he also said the standard turbo would be fine on 14 psi rb20 turbo that is

Well of course he's gonna say that.

He'll be making a tidy sum off a install like that ;)

Although, you can have a re-mapped setup so that it will work with larger injectors etc.

What other options for tuners/ECU's etc do you have near you?

Im not familiar with your area... but if thats all you have avaliable, then your probably going to be going your option above which is fair enough...

However if there is a chance you can go somewhere else and find out the pricing, then id shop around just to be sure your getting the best value for the money as net return on RB20's vs $$ spent is tough at times :P

wannaslide Contributor

wannaslide

Posted
  • Author
Posted

efi performance is like a 35 minute drive away so i might give them a call about there nistune chips they do sound allright the only reason i was going to get the microtech was so when i get injectors and the turbo and stuff it would work but if efi can tune the standard computer with injectors and that i might just do that anyway thanx for all the help cos was gonna go in on the weekend order it and it in so thanx i will try and find a better way. it is hard to find someone thats not out to make lot of money off ya

DrewII Community Regular

DrewII

Posted
Posted

i too was going to go down your path. and pay 2500 for microtech and tune for my series 2 R33

i ended up getting a Nistune remap from Toshi on these forums and seriously for $500 bucks i got exactly the same result as i would have with the microtech. just over 200kw at the wheels and all the fruits of the microtech without the $$$

bozodos Grand Master

bozodos

Posted
Posted

How funny, one of the previous owners of mine got the combo of a Microtech and KKR.

Cold starts suck, fuel economy sucks, and for some reason I and everyone I know who has one of these computers also has a car which runs very rich.

I also have no VCT, AWD (still trying to work out how on earth I can get it happening with the piece of shite), and the car feels sluggish at around 5000rpm (changing heat range of plugs, and changing oil to Motul to see if I can alleviate some of this)

The LCD Dash is a cool wank factor though.

If it weren't a daily and I had the time and money to stuff around I'd pull out the Microtech and go Nistune/remap.

shy_s6 Veteran

shy_s6

Posted
Posted (edited)

for that 2200 you could find a new fuel pump, grab some s/h bigger inj, even gtr inj? bigger turbo, stainless manifold, and a remap!!! (maybe even grab a alloy radiator from ISC)

remap $500 (nistune)

inj $400

manifold $200

s/h bigger turbs/new chinacrap $800

new pump $200

couple things for you to look at...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...-R-t244086.html

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ol-t247327.html

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sa...cc-t249138.html

Edited by shy_s6
EFI Performance Enthusiast

EFI Performance

Posted
Posted

Yer mate we are moving to yatala in the new year, when we get our new MAINLINE dyno, dam xmas break otherwise we would be already there.

Nistune is by far a better option for your car.

$375 installed plus dyno time ontop and you get to keep all your factory sensor's, knock map and you wont get any timing jitter which microtech are very well known for.

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted
How funny, one of the previous owners of mine got the combo of a Microtech and KKR.

Cold starts suck, fuel economy sucks, and for some reason I and everyone I know who has one of these computers also has a car which runs very rich.

I also have no VCT, AWD (still trying to work out how on earth I can get it happening with the piece of shite), and the car feels sluggish at around 5000rpm (changing heat range of plugs, and changing oil to Motul to see if I can alleviate some of this)

The LCD Dash is a cool wank factor though.

If it weren't a daily and I had the time and money to stuff around I'd pull out the Microtech and go Nistune/remap.

Why don't you have VCT? What model microtech is it? My LT12S can control VCT.

wannaslide Contributor

wannaslide

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

thanx everyone for ya help cos i was nearly ready to take the deposit down this weekend but i have now talked to the guys at efi performance and im gonna get my car done there with the nistune when they move to yatala (efi performance) any chance you could pm me ya address when you have moved in at yatala i forgot to ask on the phone

and im not going a kkr anymore

Edited by wannaslide

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Roy
      Ben's R32 Gtst Build

      By Roy · Posted

      Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • MBS206
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Shizu
      Returning after a long time!

      By Shizu · Posted

      Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • dbm7
      Looking for a part number for this part here

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...