Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My climate buttons are on the piss as well. None of them light up at night, it has been like this since i bought it then somebody said the other night that the bulb might be blown (never really noticed). I would like to know what it looks like when the buttons are lit up. anyone got a photo? Is there a fuse to this bulb that i should look for first, or do i have to go straight for the bulb. What is involved in getting to it?

sorry for dragging up an old thread, i found this one thru the F.A.Q – Maintenance, Guides & Issues/Problems - Model Specific & General thread - Rather than making a new post and getting flamed. Its got some good info. Top work to redlinegtr for putting it together

  • 2 months later...

i couldnt find any little bulbs in town so i got some LEDS and made them to work in the same spot!! LEDs are ment to last a bit longer than bulbs,so they will do!!

i dont think japs like to change them!! i didnt even know their was a light in the R32 window control switch!! and the hand brake light!!

1.sun load sensor is on the dash!!

2. room temp sensor in in that little slits near the gear boot

3. one near the radiator

4. on om the air con canistor, thing!!

i did the diog test on my aricon and the sun load and the canistor sensor were reading -1000 *C so its r00ted.

I have a theory - can anyone substantiate

Since an R33 GTR powerFC works on an R32GTR, wouldn't a R33 climate control unit work on the R32?

I would change over if I knew it worked, as they're MUCH better than the R32 units.

I have a theory - can anyone substantiate

Since an R33 GTR powerFC works on an R32GTR, wouldn't a R33 climate control unit work on the R32?

I would change over if I knew it worked, as they're MUCH better than the R32 units.

I think i would!! but would it fit????? :type:

well seeing as my r32 one is sitting around right at the moment.. here is the rear.. from what I remember this is very similar to r33 plug wise.

Soon as somebody can post an r33 one we can verify that pretty quickly.

My display is a bit dodgy on my R32, it fades in and out (mostly out), but with a gentle tap on the bottom of the casing it will work for a little while. Since I installed my deck however, I cannot tap the bottom of it and therefore am without a display permanently. I tried to pulll it out today, but couldn't get the whole thing out, I unscrewed the 6 screws holding it in place, but couldn't actually get it out. I then proceeded to just remove the front of the unit until I reached the circuit board where I discovered that if I place pressure on the right (drivers) side of the display, it works. Unfortunately I can't get to the wiring behind it as I couldn't get the circuit board off even after undoing the 2 screws. So my question is how do you get the whole thing out? And how does the circuit board come off? Do I just need to pull harder or what?

Cheers for the help in advance.

  • 4 months later...

Mine is dodgy too, and I have 2 of the things. The first one only seems to vent air to the front windscreen. The second has no display.. a tough choice :rofl:. Don't seem to have any lights on the buttons, any more info on how to change them to leds?

I changed my lights to leds.

Pull out those crappy lights that always blow.

I went out and bought wire wrap and some 805 SMD resistors and some 603 SMD leds.

Been working fine. I soldered the componetes and wired the wires in the light fittings.

I was thining of taking a few photo's on how to do it.

And than posting it up.

I dont think u need to go as small as I did with the smd (surface mount device) components.

If i do one of the light fittings again I'll take a photo off it.

My m8 needs his R31 lights converted the use the same housing in the light switches on dash sarounding cluster.

My climate control worx fine. I have heard that dry joints can develop on the display to the pcb. Well i have heard one instance of a guy who resolderd the display and he had no more problems with the unit.

Untill my own unit bigins to fail I wont know the exact answer.

But I have noticed every now and then when i turn my unit on it starts in diagnostic mode.

not often.. like once or twice.

  • 1 month later...

What about lights at the wiper switch thing and hazard switch? Were there lights there at all cos' i'm having problems looking for them at night.

Also my climate control works fine except for sometimes if i have it on heat, i scroll it down to 18 and freaking heat still coming out of the vents till i have to turn the whole thing off and on and off again for several times then i'll behave. Never had any problem with my 33gts.

Also for mode funtion, if i put mode at FEET only all i hear is just the motor kept winding and sound like one of the blades got stuck at something so yeah...it just keep winding.

After owning 32GTR, i notice r33gtst climate has more funtion and works better as well. Is there a way that we can order a whole brand new unit at Nissan?

  • 6 months later...

R32 fading display(pushing on back of climate control box helps)

I went through this problem.

When you take the climate control apart you will find two boards inside that slide out.

They are connected to each other by about 17 metal pins.

If your display is dodgy then look at the pins and you will notice that there is very small hairline cracks which need to be saudered.

Fix these cracks and your display will work great.

Edited by icydude
  • 5 months later...
I changed my lights to leds.

Pull out those crappy lights that always blow.

I went out and bought wire wrap and some 805 SMD resistors and some 603 SMD leds.

Been working fine. I soldered the componetes and wired the wires in the light fittings.

I am doing the same thing, however when I fitted the LEDs today, only two of the six illuminated.

When I connected 12V to one of the non-working LEDs, the circuit appeared completed and the same two lit up again? Any ideas on what I might have done wrong or should I pull the front off the climate control and check inside?

All LEDs were tested prior to purchase.

Any advice please SAUers?

Cheers

  • 3 weeks later...

Yeh my buttons are shocking the only way i can change the temp is by pressing a specific button whilst pressing what i want to work. (so two buttons at one time) even then it only works sometimes.

I will pull it apart soon however i need to get the car running first, (probably a priority) think it's the head gasket.

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
×
×
  • Create New...