Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm suspicious of mine, was 3years old when I got it, only 45,000klm. Now got 86000klm, I've already changed timing belt.

Only mechanical problem has been needing a new crank angle sensor.

And heaps of brakes and tyres :)

i bought mine three years ago with 40,000 on the clock, ive got 125,000, the only things ive changed were clutches brakes 2 times, timing belt and water pump, i can hear noises coming from the diff and driveline, oh well, launching the car all those times over the years its no suprise, my car was 6years old when i bought it

I'm suspicious of mine, was 3years old when I got it, only 45,000klm

I wouldn't worry about that - that's pretty much normal for a a city bound 3 year old car here. I'd say that average KM's for a 3 year old car are around 30 - 50K KM. But, if you're unsure, go by the condition of the seats, pedals, etc...

Got mine last Saturday, 71,000km on the clock, and looks genuine as the interior is immaculate as is engine bay etc.

Only problem is the second turbo decided to call it quits after driving back to Canberra from Sydney, doh :P

But Ive only had it 4 days but love it to death already :P

Got my R33 just over a year ago with 32,000 documented kilometers, just turned 38,000. I hate to see the kilometers rack up so I'm looking at getting a nice cheap low kilometer S13 Q's to drive to work in.

My last car(A31 Cefiro) I bought with 82,000 and got rid of it with 112,000 Kms. Nothing but problems with it, tranny on it was about to die(slipping) when I traded it up for the Skyline. It's great not being nickle and dimed like I was with the Cefiro now, had zero problems with the 25t :P

Reading all these posts got me thinking. Out of curiousity - what do Australians consider to be "high mileage" or "High KM's"?

It's my experience living here, in Japan, that anything over 100,000 KM is regarded as very high. In fact, with the exception of classics and sought after cars, it's hard to find any car for sale above 100,000KM - well, not ones fetching reasonable prices anyway...

A good example was my old R33 GTS. Excellent condition. 2 Owners. 90,000KM. Got a lousy 30,000 yen when I traded it in to buy an R34. (and I had to twist the dealers arm to give me that much for it!!!

BTW - I'm British and as I recall, in the UK 100,000 miles is considered "High". :P

Originally posted by Demon Dave

BTW - I'm British and as I recall, in the UK 100,000 miles is considered "High". :P

We think the same thing in the states. I always found it amazing that the Japanese consider 100,000 KM to be high, that's only 62,000 miles! I guess there is a stigma surrounding the whole 100,000 mark.

my GTS25 has 96000 now. almost...95xxx..not sure exactly

bought at 86 in may this yr.

my daily driver albeit the occasional "whack" in the bum altho dont expect much cause its a non turbo...tho that will change in abit.

:P

going strong...had a slipping clutch...due to launches..changed it and it goes fine now. whining gearbox...god only knows why..

rusty screws here n there but totally immaculate interior...seats and pedals...only started to wear when i got the car...

gee...

;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...