Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Im thinking of changing the front and cartridge of my turbo to a GT35R as the rear housing that i have is the same on both the GT3076 and GT35R? Correct?

Ive been looking for a Anti surge cover for it and the only ones i can find are the hole type like the T04Z and Turbonetics GTK turbos.

Is there a surge slot cover in .70 similar to the .60 on the GT3076?

Do they make this style of surge slot cover for the GT35Rpost-32255-1229854877.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249749-surge-slot-cover/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

O.T exactly wat is the significance of having the surge cover. does it work ineffect so u can safely "dose" ????????

Its to limit surge on a turbo. Dose is for fully hectik VL drivers who want to blow their turbos up.

The hot side is quite different on a GT35R I'd imagine, its definitely a bigger wheel... why do you want the surge slots?

Tial did a GT35R with a GT30R looking cover, though if you are going for a decent upgrade and want the nice whistle etc etc why don't you just trend set and go a GT4088R? They are pretty awesome turbos, there are some nice twin scroll manifolds out there and you're not going to have to upgrade in a huge hurry. You can obviously tolerate a bit more lag and obviously the amount of power you made with the GT30R wasn't enough, so do it right :down:

I have a secret agenda of course, I want to see what a GT40R would be like on a R33.... but meh :)

The hot side is quite different on a GT35R I'd imagine, its definitely a bigger wheel... why do you want the surge slots?

Tial did a GT35R with a GT30R looking cover, though if you are going for a decent upgrade and want the nice whistle etc etc why don't you just trend set and go a GT4088R? They are pretty awesome turbos, there are some nice twin scroll manifolds out there and you're not going to have to upgrade in a huge hurry. You can obviously tolerate a bit more lag and obviously the amount of power you made with the GT30R wasn't enough, so do it right :down:

I have a secret agenda of course, I want to see what a GT40R would be like on a R33.... but meh :)

The GT30 and GT35 have the same 84mm trim at the back so assume the housing would be the same.

EDIT: Hmm the wheel is 8mm bigger on the GT35R, might need to find out if they are the same.

I have been in a few cars with GT35R and none of them have the sound of a GT3076.

Those who have GT3076 know what im talking about.

Thing is im stuck with the rear housing and want to know if a cartridge and front cover will fit. (GT35R)

I have the surge slots on my GTRS so i know where your coming from about them sounding good on full spool. Best one i've heard is a T04Z on a 2J.

If GCG is still open, give them a call tomorrow morning and ask them, surely they would know. I've however never seen a surge cover for a .70 housing GT35R so not sure if you can get your hands on one.

I have the surge slots on my GTRS so i know where your coming from about them sounding good on full spool. Best one i've heard is a T04Z on a 2J.

If GCG is still open, give them a call tomorrow morning and ask them, surely they would know. I've however never seen a surge cover for a .70 housing GT35R so not sure if you can get your hands on one.

Me either, i guess ill have to tune the car on E85 and put 2bar through my GT3076 :down:

Ill give GCG a call tomorrow,fingers crossed they are open.

my 2530 has the surge slots and its got a higher pitch whistle on spool, sounds good, but id love to see how the 3076r sounds when i get it installed in the next month or so...

You will love it!

Called GCG,

They have a new GT35 surge slot cover released for 2009.

Its only in the US at the moment GCG are ordering them in, in the new year.

Have to way up prices for the conversion, might just buy one outright.

John at Turbo Supplies in Townsville did my Turbonetics front cover. Fair bit of work.... CNC machine would be nice once programmed.

The slot inside sits just on the tip of the second smaller blades. Id post up a pic but at work.

Gary

The GT30 and GT35 have the same 84mm trim at the back so assume the housing would be the same.

EDIT: Hmm the wheel is 8mm bigger on the GT35R, might need to find out if they are the same.

As I said, GT35 and GT30 are completely different hot sides. Trim is just the ratio between inducer and exducer - the fact that the GT30 and GT35 are both 84trim just means that the GT35 could well just be a scaled up version of the GT3076R turbine wheel, or something like that.

I very much know what you mean by the GT3076R induction sound :( There are people around the town I am in who think my car has a T51R on it. GT4088Rs do it very nicely too...

Any port shrouded turbo can make the sonic shriek , the thing that gets around it is the bell mouthed insert like HKS uses on their GT3037S turbos , Holset sometimes uses them as well .

The sound is sonic vibration caused by the splitter blades inducer tips being partially exposed at the slot .

GT3582R turbos are really a Garrett hybrid , they use a compressor housing intended for T04S turbos .

Of all the GT25BB center section turbos the 3582R's turbine shaft is unique in that the section where the compressor wheel fits over is slightly larger in diameter than the GT2554R to GT3082R BB range .

I'm not really sure if size for size (A/R ratio) GT30 and GT35 turbine housing castings are the same . Garretts always said they are outline interchangeable so it's not impossible that they machine them out larger for the 3582R .

Be a bit careful with the Garrett large frame plain bearing GT type compressor housings because often they are 0.54/0.58/0.65/0.72 etc A/Rs but of the GT40 family not T04S like GT3582Rs use .

The housing family is really based on the compressor backplates diameter and offset , actually the compressor wheel offset and bore size is also different between a BB GT3582R and say a GT bush bearing GT3776/GT3782/GT4082 .

Garrett actually modified 82mm GT40 compressors for their GT3582R and HKS spec "GT3240R" (56T and 54T) , the bore size is smaller and they've machine the back of the wheel to have a less prounounced tulip shape .

Also they machine most of the hexagon off the front of the wheel so a lock or jamb nut can be fitted to suit the thread on the small frame BB style turbine shaft .

Really the small and big frame GT turbos are worlds apart , I have a big frame GT3576 56T turbo I must get some pics of and post . The housings are 0.65 and I think 1.18 but they are HUGE next to a GT3582R's .

Cheers A .

BTW Bretts on the money , Garrett are starting to produce a factory port shrouded 0.70 A/R T04S housing for the GT3582R and no doubt he'll get them in soon .

Lastly don't forget that PS housings cost a few points of compressor adiabatic efficiency so they can be a slight step backwards if the thing is not surging , like most solutions they are a compromise with surge being the greater of the two evils .

Edited by discopotato03

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...