Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im starting to collect parts now for my goal of ~320AWKW.

My R34 GTR was stock when I bought it, I have installed the following:

* Exhaust: HKS Front pipe and Cat Back with Hi Power Muffler.

* Fuel: Nismo Fuel Pump and Fuel Pressure Regulator.

* Control: HKS EVC 6 Boost Controller

* Intake: HKS SPL Piping Kit with Super Flow Pod Filters.

Current Power: 240AWKW at 1.2 Bar

What Ive decided Im going to get:

* Garrett 2860R-5 (GT2560R) turbos. Im hoping to make 320AWKW at same boost Im running now. Is this possible??

* Tomei Cam Gears.

* Power FC

What Else Do I need?

* Do I need a new clutch for 320AWKW? Single or twin plate? I know zero about clutches.

* Do I need to buy injectors? 700cc? Or can stockies handle 320AWKW?

* Do I need new Air Flow Meters?

* Do I need new gaskets for the -5 turbos? Anything else?

* Do I need Oil Catch can?

* Stock R34 GTR FMIC should be OK for this power, correct?

* Anything else?

Note: Engine is internally stock which is why my goal is 320AWKW on a safe tune which the RB26Dett should handle, and not a massive figure. Will get it tuned for response and torque.

What would 320AWKW be at the fly wheel?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249812-goal-320awkw-r34gtr/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Wow your going all out now mate!!

Probably would want the injectors and perhaps a power fc djetro cos the AFM's would be maxing; my injectors reach 80% now on full load @ 255awkw

The clutch....well i have a nismo twin plate, the coppermix one and its great! not too grabby but strong enough to cope with high power. May be a bit expensive now with the yen the way it is.

Dont want D Jetro as It will make the Pods sit even closer to the motor with My SPL pipe kit cause piping will be shorter with no AFM's

Wont be installing new parts soon, more like in 9 months time. Just starting to collect parts slowly.

forget the afm's bakes and put a Vi-PEC plug-in ecu in it. Keep the stock afm's in place just unplug them. You could even have dual maps...one for afm mapping on lower boost and one for higher boost to read the map sensor.

was asking around at Autosalon for you but you were unavailable...sweet car mate

Edited by DiRTgarage

is your bottom end factory? then again if u have an r34 1 would assume this would be stronger than my previous 2 r32 gtr's...my 1st gtr had 365awkw & bottom end let go...my 2nd gtr has 325awkw & this also dropped compression (ring land apparently)

Wrong turbos.

GT-SS/-7/-9

The -5's are too big for 320

This has been covered i dunno how many times... All those questions have been answered in about 2-3 big threads :P

-5 are perfect for 320 and much more if needed. Ive done the turbo research on this forum and on GTR UK. So many people are running -5 and are more than happy with them. If tuned properly response can be close to stock turbo response and they will do it at less boost than GTSS eqivalents

is your bottom end factory? then again if u have an r34 1 would assume this would be stronger than my previous 2 r32 gtr's...my 1st gtr had 365awkw & bottom end let go...my 2nd gtr has 325awkw & this also dropped compression (ring land apparently)

yeah bottom end is stock on mine. Plenty on GTR UK forum have said this power level should be OK on R34 GTR

No they are not perfect for 320, sorry but that's wrong

There is so much info on this forum to back this up now that if you wanna believe something different then go for it, although I'm not sure where you'd find -5's are the best turbo for 320 on this forum i don't think I've seen any thread saying that.

-5's have made over 400kw @ the treads, and consistently mash out 380 on many many cars... so there is no way they are suited for 80-100kw (over 200hp @ the motor) less.

If all you're aim is set at 320awkw, then what do you need turbos that are capable of a LOT more for exactly?

GT-SS/R34N1 and the usual suspects (-9/-7) are the turbos for 320awkw.

Dyno sheets showing 'response' mean nothing on the street where in between gears, transient response and everything else is king. You cannot measure that on a dyno with a car loaded up showing near similar response when infact its simply not.

As for people being happy with them... they don't know any different :P

Get in a car with appropriate turbos for 320, and then get in a car with -5's

Be the judge that way.

Mate I asked all of these questions almost identically actually.

Check my thread, it covers what you're asking.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/De...in-t236467.html

Cheers and good luck. Chuck up a sheet when you get it done and enjoy!

-5 are perfect for 320 and much more if needed. Ive done the turbo research on this forum and on GTR UK. So many people are running -5 and are more than happy with them. If tuned properly response can be close to stock turbo response and they will do it at less boost than GTSS eqivalents

i think you may be confusing -5's with -7's

DiRT: He can't be if he's pointing out they are better than -7's/GT-SS's at the end of his post - He just genuinely thinks they're better options.

Bakes: Dyno results seem to show -7's will be more responsive than -5's at this power level. Cams and gears can be used to help the -5's but the rule of thumb appears to be they're a touch too big for 300-330kws.

Edited by ActionDan

i think if its a daily driver, then -7's would be the best choice, however if more like a weekend car, -5's... purely because every time that i want to jump into it, i feel that its going to be much quicker when boost comes on and you would enjoy that rush more so! thats why i bought the -5's over the -7's! and yes, i am very happy with them! i have been in an identical gtr to mine but with -7's and can say i do not regret what i did... also, it comes down to if you have future plans for the motor, these turbos would be a great investment should you have to rebuild your current rb26 and not having to worry about spending another 2k + on turbos at that time.

Mate I asked all of these questions almost identically actually.

Check my thread, it covers what you're asking.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/De...in-t236467.html

Cheers and good luck. Chuck up a sheet when you get it done and enjoy!

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/96210-5s-7s.html

Ive already ordered the -5's. (2560R)

If I blow the stock engine I will already have the turbos to then go for 400kw.

Have spoken to people who get 1 bar at 3500rpm and 1.2 bar at 4000Rpm so response in between gears will be sweet.

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/96210-5s-7s.html

Ive already ordered the -5's. (2560R)

If I blow the stock engine I will already have the turbos to then go for 400kw.

Have spoken to people who get 1 bar at 3500rpm and 1.2 bar at 4000Rpm so response in between gears will be sweet.

If you factored into your plan blowing up your motor so you need to build a 380 ~ 400kw stong bottom end ... then sure, -5's may be your thing.

But if you want response and driveability, -7's or GT-SS's are leaps and bounds more suitable for a 320kw motor.

Edited by Antimatter

lol, I didnt factor in blowing up the motor. Its just that I can get the power the GTSS make with -5 with less boost. So GTSS are not leaps and bounds ahead, maybe 500RPM on response.

Clearly you didnt read through the thread I linked. Plenty are saying there is little difference in response.

Each to their own, for each person saying to get GTSS or equiv there will be another (or more if you look at the linked thread) to say to get -5s.

Anyway, my thread was not in regards to what turbos I should buy. I have decided that. I made the thread to ask about other items I may need as per my original post. Not really interested in the GTSS vs -5 turbo war.

So far Johnny has helped by suggesting a Nismo clutch.

That GTR UK thread didn't really have much and i read it end to end.

Not a lot of back to back testing, track testing etc. Just some saying they had this, it was good.

Exactly what i said above about people not being in other setups and so on.

All which has been done here in Melb to a very large degree. Many of my mates have GT-SS, -5s/-7s and other varying configs including myself.

Like you said, if you blow the stock motor (which, lets face it is going to happen eventually), you can make 400rwkw

Good luck with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...