Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am running a staggered 17x8 & 17x9, but I do have another 2 17x9s in the same style, same colour at 38 offset with 255s on them (they were rears).

I've put them on the front with the theory of more rubber on the front can't be bad, yep they practically clear everything except a small rub when on full, full lock.

My questions are:

Would there be any negatives too running 255s all round on a GTST.

Will that upset the balance of grip or as I'm thinking can you never have enough rubber on the front.

Will I need to get an alignment setup again if I run the 9" with 255s on front (I'm about to install hicas lock bar anyway)?

I have bilstein struts, low king springs 355-345mm from centres to guards, with whiteline adjustable sways and whiteline offset upper front and rear bushes

-1degree camber on front.

When running the 225s on front I was getting uneven wear as you would expect from camber setting. Will the wear be more noticeable when using 255s on front?

With +38 offset on 9" on fronts would I be better off using a 3mm spacer and lipping the guards to avoid the slight rub on full lock? I don't like the thought of using spacers usually.

BTW the +38, 17x9" rims on front look like the perfect size as it lines up perfectly with guard edge though I haven't done any over the top hard cornering as yet...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250238-9-wide-all-round-on-33-gtst/
Share on other sites

I remember reading an article about centrifical force and wheel size.

Correct me if im wrong anyone!

But going to that size on the front would be overkill unless on a GTR, your tyre wear might get worse, your steering will be a little more heavy but you may find it will be more direct.

Still surprised that they fit on a R33 GTS-t! Let me know how you go with them though :blush:

Well steering is no heavier...

But I am experiencing understeer which is strange cause I haven't had an understeer issue before. Maybe the crappy sumitomos arn't as good as the crappy nangkangs... Damn I want semis...

It may be the alignment is out slightly after a heavy track day though. I can't imagine hitting ripple strips around Oran park would do it any good, though the instructor thought it was necessary, so I kept taking the line he showed me.

The 9" inch rims only just fit I'm thinking I will get some 2mm (if possible) spacers, with an alignment check and a fresh balance on the fronts and see how it goes.

Anyone have anything else? I can't see how having wider tyres would be a bad thing? Is overkill even possible in terms of front end traction?

Come on, heaps of people reading but not many have any thoughts... is it really that much different to having 255 tyres all round on a gtr...?

I got sick of running through rear tires quicker than the fronts and then just replacing the whole set (I'm a bit anal about tires)... so I now run 18/9 +30 rims with 235's all round... if you go with a bit skinnier tire you may get rid of the scrubbing without having to run spacers

handling is excellent but I have decent tires (same suspension as you)... yum cha tires are a waste of money unless you just like doing skids... remember if you have adjustable sway bars you can tune the under/oversteer to suit

BTW the Bilsteins are great for hopping ripple strips, I reckon there too soft for serious trackwork but they do let you take the odd 'shortcut'

Sumitumo is a great brand.. It is the best cost/performance tyre. For handling the HTR is up with the likes of V103, Potenza etc. Only issue is its directional and this is only based on Dry circumstances.

As for oversteer/understeer most likely related to your alignment.

Yes, a 255 will present more wear. Yes it will cost more for little reward.

Also for future reference buy a A-Symetrical tyre when you have excessive camber on one side (make sure its still legal) and you can swap the two back tyres (each side and start a fresh on the newish tread.

Edited by DECIM8
Well steering is no heavier...

But I am experiencing understeer which is strange cause I haven't had an understeer issue before. Maybe the crappy sumitomos arn't as good as the crappy nangkangs... Damn I want semis...

It may be the alignment is out slightly after a heavy track day though. I can't imagine hitting ripple strips around Oran park would do it any good, though the instructor thought it was necessary, so I kept taking the line he showed me.

The 9" inch rims only just fit I'm thinking I will get some 2mm (if possible) spacers, with an alignment check and a fresh balance on the fronts and see how it goes.

Anyone have anything else? I can't see how having wider tyres would be a bad thing? Is overkill even possible in terms of front end traction?

Come on, heaps of people reading but not many have any thoughts... is it really that much different to having 255 tyres all round on a gtr...?

good stuff how did the car feel over all was it more or less stable than be for ? could you push it in corners and exit quicker than be for ?

im up for 255 fronts and 265 or 275 rears on 10'' wheels f&b on my gtst

  • 1 year later...
good stuff how did the car feel over all was it more or less stable than be for ? could you push it in corners and exit quicker than be for ?

im up for 255 fronts and 265 or 275 rears on 10'' wheels f&b on my gtst

Let me know how you go with the 10" on rear, would love to do that...

Set your rear bar a bit harder to get rid of understeer.

Get your toe set at 0mm front and rear (much more responsive now).

I currently have same suspension but Sumitomo Z3 (ZIII) - the Z2 are all-round not as good as Z3 and they understeer (I had them on for one day).

My sway bars are set as front medium/hard. Rear medium/soft. No understeer unless we are talking about <50km/h hard corner.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...