Jump to content
SAU Community

Just Put A Greddy Copy Manifold On,,,, Got Problems!

SS#eater

By SS#eater,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SS#eater Collaborator

SS#eater

Posted
Posted

hey just installed a greddy copy plenum...went on ok but 1st drive.............. feels very responsive in first if you floor 1st and hit second i get heaps of lag and if you go third even worse.....4800rpm in 3rd boost still climbing.......but if you jst cruise in third and wind it out progresively putting the throttle down it boosts fine hits full boost by 3600rpm ...i have plumbed the wastegate actuator into a nipple on the plenum itself...it has got a long hose to get arond the motor...i am changing it when i got time to add a nipple to my pipeing turbo side.......so do you think the lengthy hose may be a problem....i????or maybe the feed for the wastegate from plenum is no good??? bleed valve maybe??? i dont know whats your thoughts.....????? take so long to build boost after gear change ...oh and the blow off valve is now mounted on the pipe straight after the turbo ( the metal one)

post-28208-1230549022_thumb.jpg

post-28208-1230549217_thumb.jpg

post-28208-1230549377_thumb.jpg

like the garden hose for pipe?????

its getting changed tommorow when i get to auto shop...its the acc valve feed line.....

anything wrong you can point out to me would be great

cheers

mitch..........

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

can you hear an air leak anywhere? either between the manifold and the head or the throttle body and the plenum. thats what ive got my $ on.

were the surfaces machined flat?

SS#eater Collaborator

SS#eater

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah gaskets and aviation quailty gasket goo...i thought boost leak but it always hits hard in 1st like is great but its only once you changed it takes to long to build boost....plenum suface was machined from factory it was flat... put straight edge on it....and sat it on a machined surface was not warped or bent......so i thought maybe not boost leak because in first i have no probs.....im thinking something with waste gate maybe.......

SS#eater Collaborator

SS#eater

Posted
  • Author
Posted

im putting a nipple jst after compressor housing...to see if it helps....

block off the standard bov????? ya reckon???

its plumbed back like standard again ..bt yeah got a turbosmart boost t witch i think is the culpret....i adjst it and boost dont change so hmmmmmmm

if i was running entirely off the wastegate actuator no beed...what boost should i see......like 5 psi maybe ????

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Well its more than likely going to be resulting from whatever you changed/touched.

So go over every single part that you touched, and check its connected/together/not leaking.

If you touched a hose clamp, make sure its done up etc etc.

Until you go over everything and triple check your work, its going to be hard to say as boost can leak from anywhere

SATO GTS Community Regular

SATO GTS

Posted
Posted

First thing is first check for any vacuum/boost leaks and the usuall as everybody has stated.

If you are using a after market ecu it may require a tune as you have changed the induction .

Just like when you install a new larger turbo . If you where running std crossover intake pipe and went to the side mount plenum you are changing all you volicity and dynamics of how the engine receives it air. You are going from a long runner setup to a short runner set up.

I may be wrong but it's just a thought..

SS#eater Collaborator

SS#eater

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey problem solved...dont ask how....was going to block bov to see if its positon so close to the turbo was an issue....so instead of blocking it i thought i would just take the air line going to it off...so thats what i did..went for a drive no difference in the lag.....so i went home put air line back on went for a drive ...now it dosent lag between gear changes....and my boost is settled down not unpredictable...

so i dont really know what changed but its all good....went for a drive with The Mafia in his car yesturday...anyone who doubts what he has done i will vouch for him his car is a monster nice and stock looking but geez!!! made my car feel like a hyundai!!! MORE POWER!!! very quick

cheers for you imput

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted

Have you made sure your throttle cable is at the correct length?

Sometimes after plenum installs the throttle cable is too long, the butterfly will not open 100% even though you have your foot to the floor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • MBS206
      Starting again

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...