Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

My car is an R34 GT-R (it is my daily driver) and I am at the stage where I need a new clutch. The mods I have thus far is a blitz nur cat back exhaust system, HKS metal cat, and Apexi air pods. I plan to upgrade turbos, cams, ecu, boost controller and necassery support systems etc later this year. Hoping for around the 300-350 kw @ the wheels mark.

Anyway, I was hoping you guys could help me and give me some advice on which clutch I should go for at this stage. I was thinking of getting a brand new standard R34 GT-R clutch from Nissan but am wondering if it will handle the power that I hope to achieve after the other mods I intend on doing. Also, if the cost of a standard R34 GT-R clutch is similar in price to an aftermarket one, then I thought I might as well upgrade. Although I also dont want to get a clutch thats too hard to drive.

One aftermarket clutch that comes to mind is the ORC single plate clutch 409 series. Supports up to 400PS? What are your thoughts on this particular clutch? ie - hard to drive, bites hard etc?

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250893-new-clutch-for-r34-gt-r/
Share on other sites

I don't think a Nissan clutch designed for say 220RWKW (yes I know it can take more) will survive when you get your new turbo's :(

I'm personally using a rebuilt Nismo pre-super coppermix twin plate, its fairly nice to drive (for a twin plate).

There are two clutch shops that are well known to build clutches if you want to go down that path due to the yen exchange price (japanese parts cost $$$ at the moment), NPC and Jim Berry, NPC rebuilt my clutch and did a great job for a very reasonable price.

A lot of people on the forum love the Nismo SuperCopper mix twin plate, you need to search!

You would need to get a heavy duty with that power, twin plate if you are going to launch it.

I have an ORC twin plate in my car and I love it.

I don't see what all the fuss about twin plates being hard to drive, I have not stalled it once since I got it and learnt to

drive it within 10 minutes no dramas! I'm suprised at how much people whinge about them...

You would need to get a heavy duty with that power, twin plate if you are going to launch it.

I have an ORC twin plate in my car and I love it.

I don't see what all the fuss about twin plates being hard to drive, I have not stalled it once since I got it and learnt to

drive it within 10 minutes no dramas! I'm suprised at how much people whinge about them...

So how would you compare the ORC twin plate to your stock clutch pedal feeling? Is it just a slightly harder pedal/bites a little bit more??? Or no difference at all?

Also, how does the ORC twin stack up against the Nismo Super Copper mix one? Better in terms of driveabillity/price???

Edited by xanavinismo
So how would you compare the ORC twin plate to your stock clutch pedal feeling? Is it just a slightly harder pedal/bites a little bit more??? Or no difference at all?

Also, how does the ORC twin stack up against the Nismo Super Copper mix one? Better in terms of driveabillity/price???

Hmm well I never drove my GTR with a stock clutch.

I went from Exedy brass button single to twin ORC. Honestly, it is slightly harder and a bit jumpy on the release, but I got used to it pretty quickly and find it easy to drive....

I haven't driven a Nismo clutch but I have heard they are easier to drive (for those who struggle with twin plates usually)

Either way, with the plans you have a twin plate would be the go regardless....

I went from standard clutch to Nismo twin plate and it is the best (never driven any other twin plate so i cant compare). Stalled it at first go but once i got use it, i havent stalled it since. Is a little bit noisey but that doesnt matter too much. Only bad side is slow crawling traffic the clutch wants to launch the car and it gets pretty tiresome when your constantly trying to hold back something that wants to be unleashed..

I went from standard clutch to Nismo twin plate and it is the best (never driven any other twin plate so i cant compare). Stalled it at first go but once i got use it, i havent stalled it since. Is a little bit noisey but that doesnt matter too much. Only bad side is slow crawling traffic the clutch wants to launch the car and it gets pretty tiresome when your constantly trying to hold back something that wants to be unleashed..

Thanks for your reply. I do have some follow up questions:

1) How long have you had the NISMO twin plate clutch for? I ask this because I am wondering approx. how long this particular clutch lasts? (Obviously depending on driving..)

2) Did you have to replace anything else when you swapped over to the nismo clutch? ie - thrust bearings, pivot forks etc???

3) So your nismo clutch does allow a little bit of slip? ie - not like your either on or off?

4) Is the pedal feeling a lot heavier than stock?

5) If you were to sum it up, would you say that the nismo twin plate is easy to drive?

6) Finally would you recomend getting the NISMO big operating slave cylinder?

Edited by xanavinismo

hey there R33 GTR

ive just had a HKS twinplate installed, real easy to drive, has a little shudder from lightweight flywheel, but all good, traffic stop-starts a breeze, big hill starts all good too, not really heavy either.

a wee bit of a rattle from plates, but who cares?

my girlfriend jumped in and drove it sweet too....

great clutch if you want to to some hi rev launches

cheers

Edited by donkey
hey there R33 GTR

ive just had a HKS twinplate installed, real easy to drive, has a little shudder from lightweight flywheel, but all good, traffic stop-starts a breeze, big hill starts all good too, not really heavy either.

a wee bit of a rattle from plates, but who cares?

my girlfriend jumped in and drove it sweet too....

great clutch if you want to to some hi rev launches

cheers

Is your clutch the GD Max or GD Pro? Also, if you dont mind me asking how much did it set you back?

So I got a bit of a decision to make... HKS GD Max twin plate or the Nismo Super Copper Mix.

I have heard good things for both clutches. But it seems the Hks twins are cheaper?

So on an R34 GT-R, which one would you guys recomend? Are the Nismo twins easier to drive than the Hks?

Edited by xanavinismo

I got an Ogura twin plate in my GTR. It's very bitey and I can almost guarantee that anyone jumping into the car will stall it. It's very bitey however I've grown to love it and I can drive it anywhere without stalling/take off at lights etc. all fine.

You get used to it eventually, it's got a tiny bit of slip but it's not easy to use for a first timer. No matter the clutch you'll probably get used to it... And who doesn't love the rattle of a twin plate :P

Take it you've still got a standard gearset... I dunno how harsh the Nismo clutches are but my clutch if dumped hard enough feels like it will smash a standard set into the back seat lol. It's something to bear in mind, if you're clutch is harsh won't be long until the gearset needs replacing either.

EDIT: It's also interesting once you've adjusted to a twin plate getting behind the wheel of something with a regular clutch.

the super coppermix nismo twin is more drivable than the HKS clutch. get the nismo. it's a top shelf clutch. very easy to drive and holds decent power.

I take it you have had experience with both??

If I am to go with the Nismo twins, do I have to replace anything else? ie - Release fork, pin, thrust bearing etc?

Also, do the rebuild kits for the Nismo clutches come at a good price?

I take it you have had experience with both??

If I am to go with the Nismo twins, do I have to replace anything else? ie - Release fork, pin, thrust bearing etc?

Also, do the rebuild kits for the Nismo clutches come at a good price?

I have one on my R33 GTR. The thrust bearing you can use the standard one. Pin and release fork im 99% sure they are the stock items.....

I also run the Nismo slave. I dont know how much difference there would be between the stock and nismo slave cyl's....

My car is an R34 GT-R (it is my daily driver) and I am at the stage where I need a new clutch. The mods I have thus far is a blitz nur cat back exhaust system, HKS metal cat, and Apexi air pods. I plan to upgrade turbos, cams, ecu, boost controller and necassery support systems etc later this year. Hoping for around the 300-350 kw @ the wheels mark.

Anyway, I was hoping you guys could help me and give me some advice on which clutch I should go for at this stage. I was thinking of getting a brand new standard R34 GT-R clutch from Nissan but am wondering if it will handle the power that I hope to achieve after the other mods I intend on doing. Also, if the cost of a standard R34 GT-R clutch is similar in price to an aftermarket one, then I thought I might as well upgrade. Although I also dont want to get a clutch thats too hard to drive.

One aftermarket clutch that comes to mind is the ORC single plate clutch 409 series. Supports up to 400PS? What are your thoughts on this particular clutch? ie - hard to drive, bites hard etc?

Dont bother with the Japanese junk doesn't matter what you get they are not as good as the aussie ones, Get a NPC twin plate I have got a GTR R34 and a GTR R32 both with PPG gearboxes and the NPC twin plate, the R32 has done hundred of 6000 rpm launches and has been in the car for 3 years does not even look like wearing out, remember that if you have got too much diaphram pressure every time you are pushing in the clutch your trying to push the crankshaft thru the front of the car..

Give CNJ Motorsport a ring in Brisbane and speak to then about their custom built NPC clutches. cost approx $2500 for the complete unit all billet alloy hat and can specify a lighter flywheel. You will have to change to a Push/pull conversion.

Another vote for the nismo, I've been in an evo with a exedy twin and didn't like it (too heavy),

another evo with some button clutch and the owner was proud nobody else could drive it. wtf.

in my r34 gtr the coppermix feels as I think stock felt in terms of pressure, or close to it. It does

rattle at idle a bit. Has a gradual enough bite so you don't sweat 3 point turns on a hill in traffic

but supposedly can handle 650hp.

I don't think a Nissan clutch designed for say 220RWKW (yes I know it can take more) will survive when you get your new turbo's :down:

I'm personally using a rebuilt Nismo pre-super coppermix twin plate, its fairly nice to drive (for a twin plate).

There are two clutch shops that are well known to build clutches if you want to go down that path due to the yen exchange price (japanese parts cost $$$ at the moment), NPC and Jim Berry, NPC rebuilt my clutch and did a great job for a very reasonable price.

A lot of people on the forum love the Nismo SuperCopper mix twin plate, you need to search!

I think I've got the same clutch. How much did it cost you to have it rebuilt? Mine is slipping like pig in mud.

Another vote for the nismo, I've been in an evo with a exedy twin and didn't like it (too heavy),

another evo with some button clutch and the owner was proud nobody else could drive it. wtf.

in my r34 gtr the coppermix feels as I think stock felt in terms of pressure, or close to it. It does

rattle at idle a bit. Has a gradual enough bite so you don't sweat 3 point turns on a hill in traffic

but supposedly can handle 650hp.

Do you have the bigger Nismo slave cylinder?

  • 3 weeks later...
Hi all,

My car is an R34 GT-R (it is my daily driver) and I am at the stage where I need a new clutch. The mods I have thus far is a blitz nur cat back exhaust system, HKS metal cat, and Apexi air pods. I plan to upgrade turbos, cams, ecu, boost controller and necassery support systems etc later this year. Hoping for around the 300-350 kw @ the wheels mark.

Anyway, I was hoping you guys could help me and give me some advice on which clutch I should go for at this stage. I was thinking of getting a brand new standard R34 GT-R clutch from Nissan but am wondering if it will handle the power that I hope to achieve after the other mods I intend on doing. Also, if the cost of a standard R34 GT-R clutch is similar in price to an aftermarket one, then I thought I might as well upgrade. Although I also dont want to get a clutch thats too hard to drive.

One aftermarket clutch that comes to mind is the ORC single plate clutch 409 series. Supports up to 400PS? What are your thoughts on this particular clutch? ie - hard to drive, bites hard etc?

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

hello, I might be able to help you out if you would be interested in a new/unused HKS Twin Plate. I bought it several years ago for extra parts in preparation should I decide to upgrade a GT-R BNR34. Staying with my GT-R BCNR33 for now, so the it is just collecting dust in a corner :D . let me know if you are interested as I am sure it will be a great deal for both of us. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had a go at the stuck crush tube this afternoon. Tried things like grips and a chain wrench first but wouldn't just twist straight off. So got to work with a drill. Started small and kept a depth stop on to make sure I didn't drill into the bolt. Made a line of drill holes all the way up and enlarged them. Then a combination of chisel and Dremel to split it all the way up. Levered the split to get oil in there and eventually it gave a bit while levering. Worked it back and forth with loads more oil till it was spinning freely, then with grips I could work it downwards and off. And no significant damage to the bolt (not by me anyway - just the 27 years of rust)
    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
×
×
  • Create New...