Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fitted some Nitto NT555 Extreme ZR 255 35 18 tyres today. I am absolutely blown away with the traction these tyres have given me. I can only just spin the tyres in first( not slipping the clutch ) and every other gear is TRACTION CITY.

To give you an idea on why my excitment has reached such a pinical. I recenly purchased some 18 inch AVS mags that came with some 275 Dunlop LE MANS fitted to the back. I have had these tyres before and haven't gained much respect for them. Fistly upon measurement they showed there true colours and proved to be only 245 wide....what a crock!!! I had megga wheel spin in 1st, 2nd and sometimes third. This lead to almost new tyres lasting 6 weeks..... So after I turned them to slicks I went down to JMS were I confronted DENZO. " I want some tyres that will actualy grip" After parting with $320, I left with a pair of semi-slick AVS( Yokohama ) 245 40 18's. As Denzo said "these will give you sick traction or I'll give you your money back"! I left with high hopes. After having the tyres fitted.....and one rim scratched grrrrrr, I left. Well after almost putting my car into a gutter going around a roundabout ,with 0% throttle. I figured something was amiss. I confrounted Denzo with my ice skatting antics......"they need more heat!, do a burnout and give them ago" I found a side road and proceeded to warm them up. Yep he was right, I had sight wheelspin in second only. BUT what a joke, any other time apart from straight after a burnout they gripped like...........hmmmn slipped like I had just driven through an oil patch. I returned to JMS with the news,( didn't believe me at first when I said I was getting wheel spin in 4th) and Danni agreed to source some more tyres. To my delight he showed me round the back the next day to some practicaly new Nitto's.....he even paid for the fitting !! If that wasn't enough to put me in a good mood, they stick to the road like Sh!t to a blanket !!!!! I have had 23 cars most turbo, and have never ever come across tyres this good.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25117-nittos-made-me-speechless/
Share on other sites

Boostd: How many rwkw are you making?

Unless I "drop" my clutch from 2000rpm or higher I -cannot- make the rear tyres spin. The only way to make them spin is to put on heaps of steering lock and boot it out of an intersection from a standing start and even then its just squeeling not even getting the arse out. Wet weather I can make the rears spin obviously.

This is on 225/50/16 Michelin Preceda's worth $230ea fitted with 203rwkw.

These Nitto's sound like they are the ants pants whilst coming at a huge price.

Originally posted by franks

benm, you need some torque mate.

I need a PowerFC thats what I need.

266rwkw is understandable for needing something abit better than the standard road tyre.

Franks I woulda thought that a rolling start would be less stressful on tyres because most of the area where traction would be lost (dropping the clutch and physically beginning to move the car) is taken out of the equation.

Have all you guys got the Dr_Drift Pineapples installed, if not i'd highly recommend them for extra rear end grip.

$320 for a pair of 18" Nittos is damned cheap. Aren't they worth like double that, EACH? I'm sure I've seen some prices somewhere and they were like $500-600 each or more.

BOOSTD, keep us posted about how long they last, I was also under the impression that they don't last very long (hence mostly used for drag racing only).

Originally posted by benm

I guess it just depends on how you drive the car.

40yr old parent = probably 25,000km

20yr old car enthusiast = problably 10,000km of street racing

Hmmm.... Well, if you go by this, BOOSTD = 5,000 - 10,000kms! :) No one else I know kills tyres in 6 weeks!

I'll run and hide now! :) lol

Man that's a pretty good deal for a pair of Nittos. I saw them for $495 for 1, 245/45/17.

They must be sick on the road. But the wearing wouldn't be the best, but than again who cares about wearing when you got so much grip!! hehe

Are they any good on the wet tho??

Well have fun with them anyway before you have to change them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...