Mongoose M80 Alarm Install

[SS#eater]

HI \

i just got my m80 alarm looking at the wiring diagram its pretty vague on the details ..i know a fair bit about auto electrics but just dont seem to be enuf info......there is nothing on the actual wiring of the imbolised circuits.....do i splice a relay into say ..the fuel pump power wire...and does the m80 engage that relay when not armed ???(so when it is armed the power to fuel is interupted?.

any help would be great!

some one out there has got to have installed one and can tell me what i need to know...

cheers

[Chris Rogers]

have you installed an alarm before?

[SS#eater]

nope! jst need to know how the immobiliser splices into the circuit your immobiliseing....i presume that you would .... cut the fuel power wire and run ""1 in 1 out"" of the module and the relay inside the module acvtivates or deacvtivates the immobilesed circuit.... just need some info thats it..........im aware of the insurance reqiurements of alarm installs.....

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

M80 has built in relays, no need, they're rated up to 30amp, but the wiring itself is tiny as fck, I ended up resoldering thicker black cables directly into the box.

being Mongoose, you must only immobilise positive connections, i.e. if you try and cut power to a -ve connection it won't work (poor design I think)

but regardless, I've installed mongoose alarm in my old car, decent alarm, but everyoine has one.. no matter how good the wiring is, someone can bring their own alarm box & remote along and start your car and drive off

[Chris Rogers]

no need - there are other ways...

bury the thing when you do it.

[Ecozile]

no matter how good the wiring is, someone can bring their own alarm box & remote along and start your car and drive off

this is very true, at least with Mongoose M80.

i had one on my GTR and was on my own carport and some f(ck steal it. no broken glass, no access to tow truck, etc...

sorry not to put you off but i wont trust a Mongoose M80 again

PS : i know my post is not much of help to your thread

Edited January 10, 2009 by Ecozile

[SS#eater]

lol it ok sucks tho....if they really want it they will get it.....

im just about to start putting it in... its goign to be trial and error i guess....the door triggers and boot and bonnet trigger are what im unsure of and the dome light....like it says on 1 wire dome light output(-) so where do i put it...same for door and boot and bonnet trigger i dont know how or where to put them....

and 1 wire for park light......and the turbo run wire is that ch2 out put maybe?

http://www.mongoose.com.au/media/11902/M80.pdf

this is the wirirng diargram in the booklet.....

if someone could tell me what they think numbers im unsure about

4,6,7,10,11.12.13 need to know how to wire them into their relative circuit....

m80g diagram

thanks !!!!!

[SS#eater]

bump

[cavell]

ey,

no offence but from the sounds of it u dont know what any of the wiring does. alarms are not sumthing that can just be put in by any one that has a bit of electrical know how. ive been doing alarms for just over a year now and i can tell u the first 3 or 4 i did i had someone that knew exactly what,where and how the alarm should be installed. i would recomend going back to where you brought the alarm from/or a person you know and can TRUST that HAS done alarms befor and get them to install it otherwise you could have some serious problems.

sorry to sound so negative but i work in the industrie and have had many people come in and tell me there alarm they installed doesnt work properly and it doesnt do this or that and it goes of randomly.

best to fork out a bit of cash and get it done by a professional.

but thats just my opinion. if you do decide to go along and do it ur self im more then willing to tell u what wire does what and where to go about finding them as i have a m80au in my R33 myself.

good luck

[SS#eater]

hi well i would get it installed "professionally" but the only place to get it done here a well known for being HIGHLY dodgy i mean really terrible like twitching wires together then just tapeing them up....fire starter.....they have a bad rep even stereo installs ive seen speakers wired in out of phase....earths just jammed under a bolt ...no terminal or anything...so i am most definetly not paying hundreds for totall amatuers to destroy my wiring...i may be amatuer but these guys make amatuers look good...

so if you want to help me thats great...but i have my reasons

[bob_rum]

alright then. firstly i must say dont listen to nobs that are "in the industry" and think that you should just part with your money. installing an alarm isnt like climbing everest no matter how much they would like you to think it is.

ive just installed a mongoose m80 alarm in my rnu12 attessa bluebird the only thing ive got to do is get the immobilisers working properly because they wont switch but thats not a problem with my freshly found alarm installation skills thats a problem with the last guy who had the car.

right my advice would be to start with the easy stuff and work your way up. i will assume you have all the tools ive got and if you dont do what i did and go out and buy them.

step 1. mount the impact sensor in the middle of the car to a solid place. mines mounted at the bottom of the center console onto solid steel.

step 2. mount the glass break sensor where ever (this is asuming that you have one and its not the mircowave sensor or what ever)

step 3. mount the bonnet switch somewhere that the bonnet will close on. being carefull the first time you close the bonnet that its not resting on the switch simply pushing it down. not how far it is pushing it down and if it needs less cut the top of it off to suit. youll notice that the switch sticky outy bit has grooves these can be cut with plyers or a hacksaw if your more equiped than me. dont be an idiot and just cut it in half. cut it one section at a time untill you think its right. the metal casing of the switch must be grounded. for placement i just used a hole that was factory cut and therefore didnt need to use a drill but next time i have one i will probally drill it and secure it. wire 6 will have to be put threw the firewall and connected to the tab at the bottom of the switch making sure the tab it isnt touching anything metal when its closed.

step 4. mount the horn/siren thing. once again i didnt drill anything i used very strong epoxy which will probally hold longer than it would take someone to unscrew it, with the only problem being it now wont come off if i ever need it to.

horn wiring

step 1. obviously the wire with the loop on it is the ground. this may need to be extended. (if when you turn the siren on after everything is all connected and it goes check to make sure the ground is actually a ground as i put mine onto a screw that screwed into a plastic surround.

step 2. the wire that says 12v needs to go to your positive source, but dont connect it yet as there will be more stuff that can be put togeather with it.

step 3. the signal wire (5) needs to come threw the firewall and connect to the remaining wire.

once everything is done you can use your key to turn the lock on the back of the siren.

step 5. indicators

there is a better way to go about this because my way is very messy. but in principle both ways are the same.

after a couple of hours of searching i could not find where to put the indicator wires and therefore went to exactly where they were. i extended the indicator wires to the front indicators (one for each side, doesnt matter which) and simply piggybacked the positive(in my case yellow) wires with the 1 and 3 wires. since theres never a time you only want the front indicators to go and not the back these yellow wires are common and run to the back indicators aswell. and that was that done.

step 6. wire 2

wire 2 is simply the power for the alarm, put this with your 12v for the siren and plug them onto the battery source your using. whilst were on the subject of power. wire 8 and 9 simply go to ground (hopefully any metal part of your car).

step 7. bonnet trigger.

this is a bit of a prick because in involves locating the wire that runs to the light in your boot (or if your into easy just run another wire to your boot). when you open your boot the light turns on when you close your boot the light turns off. when the bad guize open your boot the light turns on when they close the boot the light turns off. therefore by piggybacking onto the positive wire that powers the light when the boot is opened the alarm will go off. this isnt so simple since all the wires seem to want to run to the back of your car. on my car and probally on yours all these wires run along the drivers side floor and the easiest place to get to them is right beside your gas foot. the way i found which wire was which was by comparing the colours (in my case it was red with green stripe and silver spot, this also happened to be my left brake lamps wire colour aswell) so cut the wire and if the light in the boot doesnt turn on when you open the boot success otherwise join the wire back up.once youve found in join wire 7 to the wire. i cut it and didnt join it back properly so now the alarm works but the light in the boot doesnt but ill get round to fixing that.

step 8. park light input

this is simply so that when you leave your lights on and lock your car the alarm will chirp at you. easiest way to get to this is on the steering column. put it on the grounded side of the park light switch. simple enuff.

step 9. dome light output

this is simply the door open light in the middle of the roof. dont no why they called it dome light since my one is square. now listen a little closer. the reason the dome light output is a negative wire is because your dome light always has positive power. when you switch the switch to alway on it simply grounds to the body of the car. when you switch it to door when the door is opened it will ground through the switch at your door. when its switched off it has no ground. i havent connected my dome light up because i couldnt be assed finding the wires. but if you really want to unscrew your light and see what colours they are and then connect wire 4 to it. but honestly its a lot of work for not much joy.

step 10. negative door trigger.

now im not entirely sure about this one(perhaps someone "in the industry" would tell you for 30$) but the positive door trigger doesnt seem much use/isnt being used by me. this could be because my car is the kind that uses the - where others will use the + or something else. but i havnt connected wire 12 to anything. wire 13 on the other hand got connected behind my dash. this once again isnt that ideal but it works and all you have to do is take you guages out and connect the wire to your open door light that gos into your guages. the only reason i did it this way was because i couldnt track down where the wire came from so i went to where i knew it was. once again piggy back that wire.

step 11.ignition input

this gos to the steering coloumn once again or if you want to be super secret about it maybe it doesnt but the wire is the same. using a multimeter find out which wire go live when you turn the key to the on position, to the acc position and to start position(you will need this for the immboliser aswell). now connect the ignition input (wire 14) to either the wire that gos live with on or acc. i would recommend "on" and this is probally the way it is ment to be done because if you just have it on acc every time you turn your car off 30 seconds latter the alarm will half-arm. whereas with it on "on" you can leave your keys in and have it not arm and not be on acc.

step 12. ch2

dont know what this does but its not vital or atleast i assume its not vital.

step 13. central locking

if your car doesnt have central locking this next bit isnt for you.

step 1 (as iv done it).

open your arm rest and find out which wires lock and unlock the doors. (mine were pink with black stripe for unlock and blue with red stripe maybe for lock).

anyway it should be easy enough to figure out. now connect wire 2 and 6 to your respective unlock and lock wires. then ground orange(1) black(4) and purple(7). brown white and yellow werent needed for me in this setup but if your having problems with it you may need to seek other advice. i connected the wires down by my gas foot as in the side pillar right by my foot is where the power window and door lock timers(controllers) are. this may be different for you and you may need to search for them. the easiest way to find my ones atleast would be to lock the doors and listen for where the click came from.

step 14. immoblisers

now im not entirely sure about this as i havnt got it completely working yet so im going to lay down how i did it and if someone wants to contribute and tell me if/what ive done wrong i would be much appreciative. also im not entirely worried about the mafia steeling my car so i havnt been overly sneaky as of where ive connected the immobilisers so if you would like to pull apart your car and rebuild it from immobilisers up your most welcome to however i get pissy if ive been fiddling around in small places upside down for too long and therefore have been a bit slack (but at the same time you wont be able to sit down in my car and simply cut and arc some shit to make it go again). anyway this is how i did it.

step 1.

behind the fuse box(at your knee) cut the fuel pump wire with at a bit of length as its not too hard to get it back togeather then take one of the double paired wires and join the two wires to one side of the cut and the other double paired wires with the same colour band (to make it easier on yourself) and join them to the other side of the cut. then plug them into you immobliser making sure your getting the same relay.

step 2. if your lazy cut the other wire on the fuse box that gos to the ecu. and follow the same proceedure as before.

step 3. follow the wire (or two in my case) that is used to switch the starter motor on the steering coloumn back abit untill your a safeish/easy enough to get to place where you can follow the same procedure as above. if there is two wires make 4 connections instead of two.

step 4. you dont really have to do this but i was worried at the thickness of the wires for the starter motor so i did. if you think you may be exceeding your 15 amp loading of the immobliser then put a 15 amp fuse between the wires instead of plugging them in and turn the car on. if the fuse blows its too much current if it doesent try going to a 10 then 5 amp fuse. i would probally still avoid using the wires if it blows a 10 but i 5 shouldnt matter that much.

step 15. plug in the led and find where you want it to go.

step 16. testing and tuning.

check that the car does everything it should and that you cant get into it ect ect. if your immoblisers dont work: sorry. and please tell me because then i will know ive stuffed up. use a small screw driver to play with the shock/noise sensor to get it to where you want it.

im not sure how to go about the turbo timer function as i havnt put mine back in yet (i think i might have stuffed up the starter motor immobiliser for the turbo timber but that can be fixed)

oh yea. you probally want to mount the alarm box thing somewhere and then probally put your dash back in once youre sure youve got it right.

well i hope this has been helpful. of course i havnt got all the answers and people "in the industry" will probally cringe at some of the stuff ive done but atleast ive now got an alarm that will keep the majority of crims at bay and it has cost me 150$ less than it wouldve for some high school dropout to do the same job.

another thing if you stuff up your car from following this its probally not my fault this is how ive done it on my car and comming from someone who a month ago had never installed an alarm before to now ive learnt alot as im sure you probally will and i still am, you will probally also hate your car by the time your finished but love it just the same. oh and im not sorry about my spelling or gramma, i just dont care thats all.

[SS#eater]

lol thats great bob rum

you put some effort into that ...the speed i type that would take me all night....

thank you for your input..this is what i was hopeing for ..i will definetly be doing it myself getting some great help from CAVELL too

thanks again for your time helped me out alot!

[JC807]

take your time and do it neatly. I've done two alarms now in two cars, the first was a bit of a rush job but it had remote start and turbo timer and other stuff and it was great (turbo 4age ke20). This one was had really poorly written instructions in Chinglish, i must of read the instructions 1000 times to try and understand what they were trying to convey.

I just put a mongoose M60 in my hilux, the instructions were a lot better. this time i tried to be really neat, and installed the alarm in a really hard to reach spot. I'm stoked with how it turned out and is a much better install than the Black Widow i had Strathfield Car Radios install in my first car when i was young. They are so rough, i will never let them touch my cars again, e.g. they didn't even bother feeding door lock wires through the existing rubber connection grommet between the door and car body, they just had the wire poking out from under the door trim and into the car !! WTF?

If i ever use an auto leccy for work i'll make sure its an independent company not some franchise company that doesn't give a shit.

[SS#eater]

yeah i will.. i have seen some dodgy wiring by those sort of stores....i got a good spot in mind for the main alarm box...hard as fu(k to get too lol....

cant wait for keyless entry ....no more getting wet in the rain....my pet hate is putting wiring through the fire wall hate it hate it hate it....lol

wires pokeing out the door trims....where have i seen that before...... hmmm... OH my 1st car lol i am guilty of doing that little short cut...lol..works till your door squashes the insulation off the wire and becauce i was young and dumb ...no fuse.... you get 1 red hot peice of wire burning your door your dash all the way to the battery!!!... lol

burnt the wire harness under the dash stuffed it all up.... lol learning the hard way ....

[Stagea_Neo]

bob_rum.....nice post, thats mega!!!

Just reading your bit about the boot light.

I recall when putting an a later model vision alarm, a zenner diode (correct if me if im wrong)

is put in line with the boot sensor wire from the alarm to the positive wire of the boot light.

Previous vision alarms I've installed did not require this.

The diode stops a certain amount of voltage passing back to the alarm, or from the alarm to the boot light as to keep it all happy. ie. the boot light will not be constantly on or the alarm will not be falsely triggered. No footnotes anyware on this in the install guide?

[Stagea_Neo]

I've just scanned through this manual, M80G looks very easy to install.

in fact the wiring diagram/features look almost identical to the Vision

VAE 318-1600.

Except the vision only has two stages of immobilization which isnt a concern

as you just wire in an extra relay(s) to immobilize another circuit.

No black wiring either, again no concern, make up a all black loom.

[SS#eater]

yeah i have installed it no problems at all....see the truoble i was having was i had the right idea but just wanted to run it by someone to double check so i did not fry the alarm module...all in all was pretty easy...no problems so far....

[danielr34]

alright then. firstly i must say dont listen to nobs that are "in the industry" and think that you should just part with your money. installing an alarm isnt like climbing everest no matter how much they would like you to think it is.

ive just installed a mongoose m80 alarm in my rnu12 attessa bluebird the only thing ive got to do is get the immobilisers working properly because they wont switch but thats not a problem with my freshly found alarm installation skills thats a problem with the last guy who had the car.

right my advice would be to start with the easy stuff and work your way up. i will assume you have all the tools ive got and if you dont do what i did and go out and buy them.

step 1. mount the impact sensor in the middle of the car to a solid place. mines mounted at the bottom of the center console onto solid steel.

step 2. mount the glass break sensor where ever (this is asuming that you have one and its not the mircowave sensor or what ever)

step 3. mount the bonnet switch somewhere that the bonnet will close on. being carefull the first time you close the bonnet that its not resting on the switch simply pushing it down. not how far it is pushing it down and if it needs less cut the top of it off to suit. youll notice that the switch sticky outy bit has grooves these can be cut with plyers or a hacksaw if your more equiped than me. dont be an idiot and just cut it in half. cut it one section at a time untill you think its right. the metal casing of the switch must be grounded. for placement i just used a hole that was factory cut and therefore didnt need to use a drill but next time i have one i will probally drill it and secure it. wire 6 will have to be put threw the firewall and connected to the tab at the bottom of the switch making sure the tab it isnt touching anything metal when its closed.

step 4. mount the horn/siren thing. once again i didnt drill anything i used very strong epoxy which will probally hold longer than it would take someone to unscrew it, with the only problem being it now wont come off if i ever need it to.

horn wiring

step 1. obviously the wire with the loop on it is the ground. this may need to be extended. (if when you turn the siren on after everything is all connected and it goes check to make sure the ground is actually a ground as i put mine onto a screw that screwed into a plastic surround.

step 2. the wire that says 12v needs to go to your positive source, but dont connect it yet as there will be more stuff that can be put togeather with it.

step 3. the signal wire (5) needs to come threw the firewall and connect to the remaining wire.

once everything is done you can use your key to turn the lock on the back of the siren.

step 5. indicators

there is a better way to go about this because my way is very messy. but in principle both ways are the same.

after a couple of hours of searching i could not find where to put the indicator wires and therefore went to exactly where they were. i extended the indicator wires to the front indicators (one for each side, doesnt matter which) and simply piggybacked the positive(in my case yellow) wires with the 1 and 3 wires. since theres never a time you only want the front indicators to go and not the back these yellow wires are common and run to the back indicators aswell. and that was that done.

step 6. wire 2

wire 2 is simply the power for the alarm, put this with your 12v for the siren and plug them onto the battery source your using. whilst were on the subject of power. wire 8 and 9 simply go to ground (hopefully any metal part of your car).

step 7. bonnet trigger.

this is a bit of a prick because in involves locating the wire that runs to the light in your boot (or if your into easy just run another wire to your boot). when you open your boot the light turns on when you close your boot the light turns off. when the bad guize open your boot the light turns on when they close the boot the light turns off. therefore by piggybacking onto the positive wire that powers the light when the boot is opened the alarm will go off. this isnt so simple since all the wires seem to want to run to the back of your car. on my car and probally on yours all these wires run along the drivers side floor and the easiest place to get to them is right beside your gas foot. the way i found which wire was which was by comparing the colours (in my case it was red with green stripe and silver spot, this also happened to be my left brake lamps wire colour aswell) so cut the wire and if the light in the boot doesnt turn on when you open the boot success otherwise join the wire back up.once youve found in join wire 7 to the wire. i cut it and didnt join it back properly so now the alarm works but the light in the boot doesnt but ill get round to fixing that.

step 8. park light input

this is simply so that when you leave your lights on and lock your car the alarm will chirp at you. easiest way to get to this is on the steering column. put it on the grounded side of the park light switch. simple enuff.

step 9. dome light output

this is simply the door open light in the middle of the roof. dont no why they called it dome light since my one is square. now listen a little closer. the reason the dome light output is a negative wire is because your dome light always has positive power. when you switch the switch to alway on it simply grounds to the body of the car. when you switch it to door when the door is opened it will ground through the switch at your door. when its switched off it has no ground. i havent connected my dome light up because i couldnt be assed finding the wires. but if you really want to unscrew your light and see what colours they are and then connect wire 4 to it. but honestly its a lot of work for not much joy.

step 10. negative door trigger.

now im not entirely sure about this one(perhaps someone "in the industry" would tell you for 30$) but the positive door trigger doesnt seem much use/isnt being used by me. this could be because my car is the kind that uses the - where others will use the + or something else. but i havnt connected wire 12 to anything. wire 13 on the other hand got connected behind my dash. this once again isnt that ideal but it works and all you have to do is take you guages out and connect the wire to your open door light that gos into your guages. the only reason i did it this way was because i couldnt track down where the wire came from so i went to where i knew it was. once again piggy back that wire.

step 11.ignition input

this gos to the steering coloumn once again or if you want to be super secret about it maybe it doesnt but the wire is the same. using a multimeter find out which wire go live when you turn the key to the on position, to the acc position and to start position(you will need this for the immboliser aswell). now connect the ignition input (wire 14) to either the wire that gos live with on or acc. i would recommend "on" and this is probally the way it is ment to be done because if you just have it on acc every time you turn your car off 30 seconds latter the alarm will half-arm. whereas with it on "on" you can leave your keys in and have it not arm and not be on acc.

step 12. ch2

dont know what this does but its not vital or atleast i assume its not vital.

step 13. central locking

if your car doesnt have central locking this next bit isnt for you.

step 1 (as iv done it).

open your arm rest and find out which wires lock and unlock the doors. (mine were pink with black stripe for unlock and blue with red stripe maybe for lock).

anyway it should be easy enough to figure out. now connect wire 2 and 6 to your respective unlock and lock wires. then ground orange(1) black(4) and purple(7). brown white and yellow werent needed for me in this setup but if your having problems with it you may need to seek other advice. i connected the wires down by my gas foot as in the side pillar right by my foot is where the power window and door lock timers(controllers) are. this may be different for you and you may need to search for them. the easiest way to find my ones atleast would be to lock the doors and listen for where the click came from.

step 14. immoblisers

now im not entirely sure about this as i havnt got it completely working yet so im going to lay down how i did it and if someone wants to contribute and tell me if/what ive done wrong i would be much appreciative. also im not entirely worried about the mafia steeling my car so i havnt been overly sneaky as of where ive connected the immobilisers so if you would like to pull apart your car and rebuild it from immobilisers up your most welcome to however i get pissy if ive been fiddling around in small places upside down for too long and therefore have been a bit slack (but at the same time you wont be able to sit down in my car and simply cut and arc some shit to make it go again). anyway this is how i did it.

step 1.

behind the fuse box(at your knee) cut the fuel pump wire with at a bit of length as its not too hard to get it back togeather then take one of the double paired wires and join the two wires to one side of the cut and the other double paired wires with the same colour band (to make it easier on yourself) and join them to the other side of the cut. then plug them into you immobliser making sure your getting the same relay.

step 2. if your lazy cut the other wire on the fuse box that gos to the ecu. and follow the same proceedure as before.

step 3. follow the wire (or two in my case) that is used to switch the starter motor on the steering coloumn back abit untill your a safeish/easy enough to get to place where you can follow the same procedure as above. if there is two wires make 4 connections instead of two.

step 4. you dont really have to do this but i was worried at the thickness of the wires for the starter motor so i did. if you think you may be exceeding your 15 amp loading of the immobliser then put a 15 amp fuse between the wires instead of plugging them in and turn the car on. if the fuse blows its too much current if it doesent try going to a 10 then 5 amp fuse. i would probally still avoid using the wires if it blows a 10 but i 5 shouldnt matter that much.

step 15. plug in the led and find where you want it to go.

step 16. testing and tuning.

check that the car does everything it should and that you cant get into it ect ect. if your immoblisers dont work: sorry. and please tell me because then i will know ive stuffed up. use a small screw driver to play with the shock/noise sensor to get it to where you want it.

im not sure how to go about the turbo timer function as i havnt put mine back in yet (i think i might have stuffed up the starter motor immobiliser for the turbo timber but that can be fixed)

oh yea. you probally want to mount the alarm box thing somewhere and then probally put your dash back in once youre sure youve got it right.

well i hope this has been helpful. of course i havnt got all the answers and people "in the industry" will probally cringe at some of the stuff ive done but atleast ive now got an alarm that will keep the majority of crims at bay and it has cost me 150$ less than it wouldve for some high school dropout to do the same job.

another thing if you stuff up your car from following this its probally not my fault this is how ive done it on my car and comming from someone who a month ago had never installed an alarm before to now ive learnt alot as im sure you probally will and i still am, you will probally also hate your car by the time your finished but love it just the same. oh and im not sorry about my spelling or gramma, i just dont care thats all.

lol, the time it took you to write this novel I probably would have finished the entire install...only people "in the industry" would agree, I'm guessing.

[danielr34]

Don't want to sound like a nob "in the industry" but just try to keep the information you share about "security products" on a PM level, so as to not tell the entire world how to do it, especiially in your own vehicle.

Even car thieves can sign up with SAU.

Cheers and good luck with your personal installs.

P.S If you have spent 2 hours looking for your indicator wires, take a risk and spend $2 on a phone call to me and I may tell you the colour codes and where to find them.

Leon

[bob_rum]

Don't want to sound like a nob "in the industry" but just try to keep the information you share about "security products" on a PM level, so as to not tell the entire world how to do it, especiially in your own vehicle.

Personally i dont have a problem with giving out information about my own alarm install if it helps someone else get an alarm in their car. Also (imo here on) i dont believe sharing info about installs is really dangerous considering the main purpose of an alarm is to stop someone even thinking about touching your car. Assuming that your cars located somewhere no one can hear it scream, your nowhere to be found and the pond scum gets in what is going to happen next? a) are they going to spend the time trying to locate your control unit and jimmy the car up or b) are they going to try and get it on a truck/trailer setup to take somewhere more convenient.

if its a) they must have followed my method rather well or just looked on the internet for the wiring "picture" and have some form of knowledge to start with.

if its b) your well stuffed anyway and they've probably got electricians that have done a m80 install for themselves prior.

that is my opinion anyway.

right now about that boot thing (i just realized i called the boot trigger step the bonnet trigger step) im pretty sure what Stagea_Neo is saying would be about right, perhaps the alarm has an inbuilt diode im not sure, i wasnt thinking when i did it and then couldnt be bothered fixing it because of the wanky place i was working and the wire length i was working with.

also Stagea_Neo the alarm does have a black loom on all the important parts except the door un/locks.

another thing is that i think the door trigger (+) wire has to be connected to allow for turning the features of the alarm on/off as you must have the door open and then turn the key so many times. this may explain why i couldnt get my turbo timer function to turn on. if someone would verify this that would be splendid.