Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My old gtr I ran an 11.1 @ 129mph with only 320awkw.

I lot of ppl find it hard to believe but I also ran over the finish line in 3rd gear hitting the limiter for what felt like 1 second...that was capable of a high 10 run with such little power!

Wow, 129mph in third, what gearbox is that ?

How thick is your gasket?

What's your deck height? That seems damn low!

1.2. Unknown deck height. Used head. 8.6 should be my numbers but calculations showed otherwise I guess. I don't know. My goal was 8.7:1. Builder might have worked the deck?

stock box but with the MT's having high walls, the ratio somewhat changed

ran a nismo diff which i'd assume also ran stock ratios

I run the Toyo TQs which are the same size and am nearly at the top of 4th for 123 mph, what is your rev limit ? I shift between 6500-7 then hold 4th across the line at over 7000

Not sure of size Paul but they looked like marshmallows.

I think revlimit was 8.5krpm, no mercy. Side step clutch off the limiter and I think got down to 1.5 60footer

Fark yeah. I want those tyres!

Dial up revs, say a prayer, grit teeth, come off clutch and hope nothing breaks!

Thats my problem, [email protected] with a 2.0 60 footer. I think the best i have seen 60 wise was a high 1.7 lol

I actually need more power off the line as 7500rpm bogs so hopefully the 2 step will sort it out. I could rev limit it but i dont like the sound of 9000rpm.

I am guessing the tyres Marko is using would be the 255/50/16's i think they are, it whats most use on Nissan's. Its what i use.

Thats my problem, [email protected]

I actually need more power off the line as 7500rpm bogs so hopefully the 2 step will sort it out. I could rev limit it but i dont like the sound of 9000rpm.

.

Bogs down off the line, u need rb30, that will fix it.

I launch at 4200rpm and still struggle with wheel spin.

11.006, that's heart breaking, sooooo close to a ten, lol

Yeah I run 255/50/16 Toyos TQs

Some may think so, i was glad it went that close. Gives me more time to get the 60 down and get booted properly ;)

Next time out, hopefully next Friday's Full Throttle Friday, i will be able to get the 60 foot down to a 1.6/1.5 and get the car booted for not only running deep into the 10's but also for running 140mph plus. I am only 3mph away from needing a parachute as well ;)

Bogs down off the line, u need rb30, that will fix it.

I launch at 4200rpm and still struggle with wheel spin.

RB26 sounds better hehe ;)

Couldnt go a dirty 30 anyway as its in an S14 and it hits the bonnet as it is

Ido09s:- what power to run 136mph, and what car?

used to make about 430rwkw on the Unigroup dyno at 25psi, thats when it ran 137mph.

Its got 485rwkw now thanks to a PT 6766 so who knows what it will run now

Its in an S14 and i run ET STreets

Edited by ido09s

1450kgs with me in it on the Sydney Dragway weighbridge. So yeah, its probably 100kgs lighter than most GTR's. Its only ever raced in complete street trim, full interior, stereo etc The only reason the sub box is coming out next time is because it tore itself loose last time on launch and it wont stay where its meant to now.

Some may think so, i was glad it went that close. Gives me more time to get the 60 down and get booted properly ;)

Next time out, hopefully next Friday's Full Throttle Friday, i will be able to get the 60 foot down to a 1.6/1.5 and get the car booted for not only running deep into the 10's but also for running 140mph plus. I am only 3mph away from needing a parachute as well ;)

haha yeah fair enough, I used to practice 1st 2nd 3rd then shut off to get 60' right but I was trying to stay out of the 11s back then

BC do a 2.9 stroker kit that fits inside the 2.5/2.6 block :thumbsup:

So we went in for a quick look over of AFR's and boost control after switching to a new exhaust manifold and rear housing with V band entry and the monster spat out another 60hp. It was not expected. We did go to a slightly bigger rear housing. 1.01a/r vband entry from the old t3 .82 split pulse. Boost increased by 2psi also.

post-12828-0-52867800-1385500154_thumb.jpg

Not bad for a GT35r :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...