Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a R34 with a locked diff.

It's fine when im by myself (sometimes.) locks up nice.

However when I go around a round about. Or even a tightish corner it feels like the whole diff is about to fall out, very strange feeling. Almost like its floating.

If I have more than just me in the car its very annoying and feels unsafe almost.

Howmuch is this prob going to cost to fix ? Im guessing the labour is also going to be alittle pricey ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252585-lock-diff/
Share on other sites

is it a mini spool or is it a dodgy weld job?

a mini spool can be taken out if its welded just get another second hand diff center.

locked, 2way diff's etc are pretty scetchy on the streets and pretty scary in the wet. id never have one on a road car thats for sure.

Edited by Import S13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252585-lock-diff/#findComment-4368393
Share on other sites

Its not a cheap welded job.

It feels great when its working properly. the car can flick anywhere u want it. Not that I do this, but have tried.

I just feel it could be getting alittle worse with time

what are some estimate costs ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252585-lock-diff/#findComment-4368407
Share on other sites

Most of the R34 GTT come from the factory with LSD in the later years are you sure its really locked ?. mine does the same thing , sounds wonky and most of these cars dont work well with more then two people in them.to much weight over rear end

check your diff oil, it might need changing ? and make sure you use the right kinda oil in it, or the LSD will fail.

mine makes a heap of racket but checked out ok.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252585-lock-diff/#findComment-4368428
Share on other sites

yeah its clunking. especially around slow corners.

weird floating feeling sometimes.

kye is on the money yes. Just want to know some prices and estimates.

wonder how long the labour would take.? never touched a diff before.

I have a friend with a workshop I can use any weekend just not sure of how big the job is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252585-lock-diff/#findComment-4368433
Share on other sites

If its performance & behaviour is changing and doesnt feel normal, it wont hurt to get the centre checked out, replace oil etc. i've never had any work done to the diff on my 33 so i'm not sure on what repair bill amounts will be.

I have a 2-way which chirps tight corners, but very tight and very slow turning = clunk clunk clunk. bit more gas = chirps. I'm actually not 100% sure on the health of my diff, so i'm interested on this topic. I've never touched the 33's diff myself; some people say that those characteristics i mentioned are normal, some say they are odd. It performs the exact same as when i bought the car, so i'm not so worried

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252585-lock-diff/#findComment-4368517
Share on other sites

Its locked. it chirps most times.

something is suss tho.

unless you know what your doing I wouldnt mess with a diff,insides the slightest error and it will fail when you punch it. the measuring is critical and it takes special tools to set them up. to measure runout and tooth patterns.

the gear set will walk out of the case, had a mate rebuild his chevy truck diff with locker, I blew it up one night in the rain.. shot the gear right out of the case and I was barely moving.and that was with skinny tires and less power then a skyline has.

my diff sounds like crap too. but mines under warranty still...lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252585-lock-diff/#findComment-4368537
Share on other sites

hardest thing about shiming a diff is getting it off the car.

there is a good diy on here for it

just going to pay wheelworx to do it mate

$225 just called and everything sorted out for that price

doesnt seem too bad to me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252585-lock-diff/#findComment-4369390
Share on other sites

had a shimmed diff in my gtst - it was quite driveable and locked up nice at slow sharp corners and yet wasn't too clunky. FYI mechanical diffs are clunky and general a little uncomfortable driving on the street. Pulling in and out of car parks etc really binds them up causing them to lock, and then the suspension torsions up and you get the clunking. Kind of the car version of hip dysplasia......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252585-lock-diff/#findComment-4370461
Share on other sites

mate, the problem wont be with your center. that floating feeling will be your rear sub frame moving around on crap rubber mounts that are becoming more and more flogged out with the massive load a locker puts on them. all the rubber bushes in the rear will be suffering.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252585-lock-diff/#findComment-4370693
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...