Jump to content
SAU Community

Bleed Valves? Which One Do U Use?


Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

Been having a look around at what people use etc. Just would like to get some opions on different bleed valves/manual boost controllers. I've been looking at a specific one The GFB Atomic heard some good stuff about it and seem to have heard some bad stuff as well. After some opinions on this bleed valve and others people are using. If finding a decent one fails i will look for a ebc. :D

Cheers Rob

Thanks In Advance for You time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25336-bleed-valves-which-one-do-u-use/
Share on other sites

I didn't see any spike on the dyno, and nor have I on the stock boost guage (for what thats worth...), but then I've got it pretty low so a 2 or 3 psi spike wouldnt be a problem if it did occur

you've got to remember that when bleed valves are used to replace the factory solenoids, most have a smaller inlet orifice than the outlet orifice which is designed to bring boost on sooner due to the pressure restriction not being able to push open the wastegate actuator (which opens the wastegate to stabilise shaft speed and boost) as quickly as when there is no restrictor. also bleed valves, due to their nature can only "flow" a certain amount of air. this is why you see boost spikes, because in that split second that your boost gauge goes to say 16psi then drops back to 14psi, this is the exact moment the wastegate actuator doesn't "see" the defined boost pressure that you've set your bleeder to.

Chiptorque used to make their own pneumatic bleeders, but i have heard from someone that works there, they will be switching to the GFB Atomic bleeder now, as their product costs more to make and the GFB product works alot better.

Hi guys, we use the Autospeed boost controller based on the Norgren valves a lot. Works well for us and at $125 I haven't seen anything else that comes even close. We do mount ours in the cold air box, it keeps the temperature of the valves more stable.

I finally installed the Autospeed boost controller that Sydneykid had recommended... and yes, works fine. You could also mount this inside the cabin... seems like a very cheap alternative to EBCs, and do the job just as well!

They've now done a 2nd article on this, might give it a bash;

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0685

Hi guys, as the hoses get longer you get a bit of delay in boost achieving stability. So I always try and make the hoses as short as possible and locate the valves inside the cold air box, more stable temperatuers in there. Some people don't mind the small fluctuation in boost, so locating the valves in cabin is OK for them and it is away from the engine bay heat as well.

Each to his own

"at night i saw it spike to 13psi which is a worry"

HeeHee! Mine spikes to 1.5Bar dropping back to 1.1...you think you've got worries.

Iused the Turbosmart duel boost which worked quite well on the stock turbo, but tended to spike quite badly on the hi-flowed one. Changed to the Audi diy setup and that worked very well until recently.

Now i'm getting severe spiking and a marked rise in boost level in 3rd and 4th gear eg spiking to 1.3Bar and quickly dropping back to 0.9Bar in 1st and 2nd, hitting the boost cut (1.46Bar) in third and hitting the boost cut so hard in 4th that ignition completely cuts out I have to wait until revs drop to zero befor ignition returns and I can restart the car. This happens with both boost controllers so if anyone has any ideas....I'd love to hear them.

turbospike bleed valve.

As sydneykid suggested the insulation of the valve and hoses does minimise the spike issues.

With all manual bleeders the ambient temp causes boost variation (ie: more boost when cold), so you need to adjust them constantly as temp varies.

Electronic controllers offer the automation of this control.

Guest RedLineGTR

so pretty much set it on a cold night..and the test in in both hot and cold conditions to get a average setting that isnt going to get crazy..I can get a GFB one for a good price..and other people have said they are quite decent..anyone else have em..

Good info guys as always. :)

Be wary of bleed valve. I had Turbosmart set at 10psi for about half a year. What I thought was perfect setup until lately.....

Following the misfiring on GOR cruise, we tracked down the culprit on the dyno and found out the bleed valve was putting out 15psi instead of what we thought 10psi. Apparently the valve has stuffed itself up, any little adjustments won't change the boost and at a certain point it'll just let go (like 10-10-10-16!!)

Lucky we find it soon before my engine blew up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...