Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

yep search the forums bro. it all comes down to how much u can spend. Use oil no higher than these ranges (no higher than)10W-XXW for the lowest rating and no higher than XXW-50W.

The Nissan guide recommends at 7.5-30w rating for the oil since its for a new motor its also hard to get some most people are running 5-40w, 5-30w -0-30w 0-40w 5-50w. Your choice. Check the thread buy the search button. You will find over 50pages of stuff to read. Also check google on oil myths good info if u have time to read it.

Hi all just thought i might add my 2 cents

I have used nearly every oil under the sun Mobil, Penrite, Shell,AGIP,Motul,Caltex.... the list goes on.

I think that the best way too check if an oil works for you is check the state of the oil when you change it...Colour, rub it between ur finger etc...

I have noticed that the racing oils like AGIP and Motul that i have used are only good for sorter periods then 5000KM, like a track day/weekend and then change it. But they do work really well for that time!!!

Till now i have noticed that Mobile 1 is the only oil that has kept its original characteristics...well closer than any of the others over the 5000KM.

So i use Mobil1 most off the time and then put in some Motul if im doing some track/skidpan time.

  • 2 weeks later...

i use mobil 1 / motul 6100. Ive recently heard that the motul is a higher "grade" oil than the mobil stuff. I dont know exactly what that means but... Also was told the new mobil 1 super syn isnt worth the dollars.

havent done any tests, just what ive heard. But with most of us changing every 5000kms its prob not that important.

Guest RedLineGTR

mobil 1 is over priced for what it is and how it is made...advertising and everything costs money where else can it go. Motul oil refering to the 8100 model 5-40w rating is reasonably priced and preforms like a top oil for a good price...motul have another branded model which is 300v which is made specifically for race and indurance races track work/drag etc... this is a specific oil for this purpose motul 5w-40w is a good all rounder. The 8100 model is as close as u will get to the best motul oil (300V) without paying 40bucks for 2 litres(300v) motlu 8100 cost about $55 and is priced quite good for how it is designed and created compaired to the competitors..

Because Magnatec is a mineral oil and breaks down a lot easier than synthetics in turbo engines. I wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot pole. All of its virtues of "sticking" to upper engine parts are also apparent in any other good quality oil. "Magnatec" is pure marketing!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys my TPS voltage is reading over 2v at idle.  My Haltech ECU is reading around 40% throttle position at idle also which is really strange. Note the actual throttle position sensor is brand new…    anyone have any experience with this or know how to calibrate it on Haltech ? 
    • The OEM disk will not work on any AEM ECU, you need to use the one they made. You shouldn't have to flip the CAS or whatever you were describing, if you set the ignition sync offset correctly it can't backfire. Make sure you're using a spark plug lead on coil 1 instead of the timing loop to avoid weird issues with the timing light. Double check that your timing settings are actually correct, like is the 24 tooth configured correct or should it actually be 12 teeth for 1 crank revolution? I also found this: 305817248-AEM-Undocumented-Settings-v1-2.pdf    
    • Yeah, I don't believe the M35 uses a deadhead system.
    • Have you done your thinking backwards? 3 bar, 43.5 psi pressure drop being the presumed specification for an injector, means you need 3 bar upstream when they are firing into atmospheric pressure, and more upstream pressure than that when on boost (you add your boost to your rail pressure to maintain 3 bar across the injector) and you need..... less pressure upstream when you have vacuum in the manifold. So, presuming that you're idling at -10 psi, then you only need ~23 psi in the rail. I realise that I did not need to say all of that to you specifically Matt, once you'd realised your mistake. It's mostly there for complete clarity for others.
    • Have you reached out to the guys at Spool Imports? They are a Ross dealer, I can imagine they would have the rings just sitting on the shelf (I could be wrong).  
×
×
  • Create New...