Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Everyone has to be good at something, no one can be an expert at everything. Your right, leave it to the experts. Any good suspension place can take your ideas about how you want the car to handle, and make it happen.

and charge u stupid amounts for it too. also id be weary about calling the majority of suspension places "experts". majority dont know shit, and will put in whatever makes them the most $$. they are salesman first and foremost, dont think for a second they always act with ur best interests in mind.

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Where did you get the midori "style" stuff then?

I was looking at ARC (not the titanium ARC) in japan and they have some nice fully adjustable sway kits (in choice of colors!) but the price now is like 70,000 yen per end.

Got mine through W.A. Suspension. One of the guys (RDirty3) is on our Executive. Check the W.A. Forum.

ARC...nicey. A few guys here rate the Cusco ones very highly

since when is the "sydneykid setup" not available anymore? whiteline/selby still make sway bars, bilstein still make shocks, eibach/whiteline still make springs, whiteline still make alignment parts. the funny part is if u buy smart ull still pay less than what gary was charging in the group buy.

correct, and when he sends out wrong bits and you send them back, the refund never arrives, where with a shop, you dont walk out til you get it!

suspension is an easy 5 step process... just follow my flow diagram:

1. take car to centreline

2. give keys to chris

3. say "fixy fixy" and point at car

4. open wallet...

5. drive away happy

and with a spring perch rubbing on the tyre, starting to ruin both until you luckily discover it before it becomes an issue

and charge u stupid amounts for it too. also id be weary about calling the majority of suspension places "experts". majority dont know shit, and will put in whatever makes them the most $$. they are salesman first and foremost, dont think for a second they always act with ur best interests in mind.

as above

Kind of on the same topic, I've got the springs and shocks from Gary's old GB in my 33 but both left hand springs are sagging now. I've emailed him about it asking for replacement (only 18 months or so old). But since the group buy is shot, I have my reservations. If it falls through, and baring in mind that Gary designed the springs to match my Bilsteins, what could I look at to replace the springs with? I'll ring Whiteline today and ask if they still produce the springs to Gary's specs, but since he gets them from the same source as Whiteline, I assume it's Whiteline that are having the supplier issues, and therefore ringing them directly probably won't help much. I'm not looking to go coilovers or anything, just want new springs to my car sits evenly!

Kind of on the same topic, I've got the springs and shocks from Gary's old GB in my 33 but both left hand springs are sagging now. I've emailed him about it asking for replacement (only 18 months or so old). But since the group buy is shot, I have my reservations. If it falls through, and baring in mind that Gary designed the springs to match my Bilsteins, what could I look at to replace the springs with? I'll ring Whiteline today and ask if they still produce the springs to Gary's specs, but since he gets them from the same source as Whiteline, I assume it's Whiteline that are having the supplier issues, and therefore ringing them directly probably won't help much. I'm not looking to go coilovers or anything, just want new springs to my car sits evenly!

I removed my Whiteline srpings & replaced them with Eibach. Much lighter and a stiffer spring rate to boot. You need a few extra bits other than the springs but someone on here should be able to tell you want to use with the 33's.

bumping this up in the hope that someone can maybe answer this as its kind of played on my mind, they say when suffering from understeer, reduce front ride height, and for oversteer reduce rear ride height.

how does this work? i would have thought the opposite.

bumping this up in the hope that someone can maybe answer this as its kind of played on my mind, they say when suffering from understeer, reduce front ride height, and for oversteer reduce rear ride height.

how does this work? i would have thought the opposite.

Rake adjustment (That is what you are speaking of) only really has a transient affect on the car behaviour. So if your thing has steady state understeer a rake adjustment wont help.

Look up Carroll Smiths list of cause/affect & his comments on rake.

whiteline make adjustable arms as well, although they are a bit of a bitch at the rear with the camber arms fouling on the big bilsteins.

Not just Bilstein....most aftermarket shocks with bigger bodies unfortunately.

and charge u stupid amounts for it too. also id be weary about calling the majority of suspension places "experts". majority dont know shit, and will put in whatever makes them the most $$. they are salesman first and foremost, dont think for a second they always act with ur best interests in mind.

A little offensive to me haha

I work for a suspension company here in Perth and we have a large range of products. I dont sell what makes more money, i sell what people are wanting or needing based on their intended use. As for not knowing shit, yeah possibly a lot dont and they sell products based on what they read on the internet that was written 'by a mate who is an expert'. I personally spend a lot of time with different products on the road and the track at competitive levels, with results to show the proof of products/set ups etc.

Im sure im not the only one who does this. Surely there are companies across Aust that have people/staff prepared to back up what they do and sell by getting out there and prooving it to themselves on several levels before trying to sell you parts. Just pick the people you use and trust wisely.

p.s. im aware you said 'majority' and not 'all'. Im not taking it as an attack on the profession or anything like that. Just putting an opinion out there.

Rake adjustment (That is what you are speaking of) only really has a transient affect on the car behaviour. So if your thing has steady state understeer a rake adjustment wont help.

Look up Carroll Smiths list of cause/affect & his comments on rake.

I figure maybe: If you lower ride height as long you don't have to increase spring rate (or bar rate) then you should get more even distribution over both tyres which would increase grip. ie. such as reducing roll oversteer - which I take as high rear ride height (and soft springs) causing roll onto outside tyre and therefore less grip. - but i could be wrong. Interesting discussion.

Not just Bilstein....most aftermarket shocks with bigger bodies unfortunately.

yeh i was talking about what i run, the bilsteins, id imagine it would be a similar problem on most aftermarket coilovers with big pistons.

A little offensive to me haha

I work for a suspension company here in Perth and we have a large range of products. I dont sell what makes more money, i sell what people are wanting or needing based on their intended use. As for not knowing shit, yeah possibly a lot dont and they sell products based on what they read on the internet that was written 'by a mate who is an expert'. I personally spend a lot of time with different products on the road and the track at competitive levels, with results to show the proof of products/set ups etc.

Im sure im not the only one who does this. Surely there are companies across Aust that have people/staff prepared to back up what they do and sell by getting out there and prooving it to themselves on several levels before trying to sell you parts. Just pick the people you use and trust wisely.

p.s. im aware you said 'majority' and not 'all'. Im not taking it as an attack on the profession or anything like that. Just putting an opinion out there.

lol, glad u made the ps. a lot of shops id be glad if they used knowledge from the internet, often even that is better than what goes around at those shops. a lot of them really specialise in ur every day car, which means they really have no clue about anything relavent to cars like ours.

I figure maybe: If you lower ride height as long you don't have to increase spring rate (or bar rate) then you should get more even distribution over both tyres which would increase grip. ie. such as reducing roll oversteer - which I take as high rear ride height (and soft springs) causing roll onto outside tyre and therefore less grip. - but i could be wrong. Interesting discussion.

well, if u think about sway bars and how u adjust them to balance ur cars, increasing anti-roll at the front end actually increases understeer/decreases oversteer.

King springs leave Whitline springs for dead. My Whitline springs failed, and i have heard of others too :( I replaced mine with Kings 3rd time round and now refuse to use any Whitline catalogue item in my car...i hate that a workshop fitted another one to my car without asking , but i got out foxed on that one as i wasnt in the coutnry when they were working on the car. I will remove the new one as well when i get back

lol, glad u made the ps. a lot of shops id be glad if they used knowledge from the internet, often even that is better than what goes around at those shops. a lot of them really specialise in ur every day car, which means they really have no clue about anything relavent to cars like ours.

lol Yeah figured best to add the p.s. as didnt want you to think i was just another keyboard warrior starting arguments :(

King springs leave Whitline springs for dead. My Whitline springs failed, and i have heard of others too :( I replaced mine with Kings 3rd time round and now refuse to use any Whitline catalogue item in my car...i hate that a workshop fitted another one to my car without asking , but i got out foxed on that one as i wasnt in the coutnry when they were working on the car. I will remove the new one as well when i get back

just spend the $$ and get something decent, eibach, hypercoil, even race teins and kingies (the higher grade steel ones)

I figure maybe: If you lower ride height as long you don't have to increase spring rate (or bar rate) then you should get more even distribution over both tyres which would increase grip. ie. such as reducing roll oversteer - which I take as high rear ride height (and soft springs) causing roll onto outside tyre and therefore less grip. - but i could be wrong. Interesting discussion.

There is much more to it than that.

What you are talking of is reducing the roll couple.

Firstly as you lower the ride height you lower the c of g. But you also move the roll centre. By a different amount usually. And the front will be different to the rear.

The downside of reducing the roll couple is that it reduces feel. The upside is that it reduces roll. The complication is that is can sometimes either increase or decrease the understeer/oversteer characteristic of the car. Which in turn depends on a whole bunch of other things. :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...