Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Are -10's the Garrett GT2871R Ball Bearing Turbos. You guys hav much info about the -10 in terms of when they come on boost, top end power etc? Do many gtrs hav this setup?

Cheers

Unless its on a 3L + I wouldnt go near them. I have RS's (pretty much -10's) on a 2.8 and they will be replaced with a set of -5's. Stupid choof choof turbo's

whats up with the last RB26 dyno post -5's @ 18psi and only 270rwkw ?? sure its pretty much a standard engine, but I had standard engine & standard turbos high flowed making exactly the same power at the same boost ??

theres quite a few others on there @18-19psi making around the 360rwkw mark ? doesn't look right

yeah stock turbos will make 270kw with some cam gear adjustment, 15psi and a good tune (my old car did and still does). still different cars get different results. no way to know what the tune is like, or the supporting mods etc or even how accurate the dyno is. at say 20psi I've seen -5s make between 300kw and 360kw. the mid point of around 330kw is about what they should make at that boost. anything more is gravy. :)

whats up with the last RB26 dyno post -5's @ 18psi and only 270rwkw ?? sure its pretty much a standard engine, but I had standard engine & standard turbos high flowed making exactly the same power at the same boost ??

theres quite a few others on there @18-19psi making around the 360rwkw mark ? doesn't look right

Wouldn't be surprised if they're -9's with a result like that

im glad i got -7's, they are so dam responsive, perfect for a quick street GTR...

my goal was to run around 280 - 300kw with the stock internals, but with sard fuel pump, nismo 600cc injectors, r34 gtr dumps/stainless front pipe/de-cat/3.5" cat back zorst, nistune, greddy cam gears, greddy profec b spec 2

so far only been road tuned on 18psi without cam gears dialed in, getting dyno tuned on the 12th of this month, hopinh for a solid number and a punchy mid range @ 20psi and gears dialed in

will post results in few weeks time :)

  • 4 months later...

read through this whole thread and -9 > -7 from what i can see, also would a gtx3582r with .82 rear be compairable response to a pair of -5's? obviously be light switch power with the 35 but i was wondering if they would come on in a similar rpm.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I know time and time again people say just to buy garrets, HKS isn't worth the mark up.

BUT

would a GT-SS set up have ANY benefit, no matter how small, over a -9 set up ??

Also from my understanding, HKS kit comes with everything you need to install and the -9s are turbos only, would the cost be more comparable after you buy the rest of the necessary items to fit the -9s ?

thanks for any replies :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...