Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I run -7's with a shitty exhaust and stock afm's. With id1000's and a walbro 400 fuel pump I make 325kw on 20psi with E85. If I fix my exhaust and chuck some bigger afm's on I'd probably crack 350kw.

It'd be much easier to do it with -9's and I don't think there would be much more lag involved.

What exhaust you going for?

Ok, had a play.

Your car is obviously tuned in 3rd gear going by the speeds. It's a bit rough but you get the idea.

3950: N= 176 P= 215

4400: N= 252 P = 300

4800: N= 306 P = 375

5244: N = 326 P = 415

5644: N = 344 P = 445

6100: N= 350 P= 460

6500: N = 342 P = 472

Take into consideration how they were loaded up for the runs and whatnot.

Just out of curiosity...

I have a set of -5s on my std RB26DETT and i'm only making 300kw on 22psi...

The things I noticed are my actuators are set at 8psi and I have 600cc injectors coupled with a Walbro 255 pump.

Are these going to be an issue or is it a tuning issue?

EDIT- Using 5speed from RB25 and 4.08 S14 Diff in an S15

Edited by TheGeniusMoose

Thats what im trying to figure out! My injectors hit 100% duty cycle on full boost thats why I thought my pump or injectors were maxing out but doesnt make sence I should be making 300kw on less than 20psi id have thought...

Previously I had valve float but that has been rectified.

Edited by TheGeniusMoose

What exhaust you going for?

Nothing at the moment as I'm content with the power. I think I'll get more gains if I upgrade my actuators 1st and see how I go.

Eventually I'll rip the cat out and the 3" exhaust and replace it all with 3.5".

Ok, had a play.

Your car is obviously tuned in 3rd gear going by the speeds. It's a bit rough but you get the idea.

3950: N= 176 P= 215

4400: N= 252 P = 300

4800: N= 306 P = 375

5244: N = 326 P = 415

5644: N = 344 P = 445

6100: N= 350 P= 460

6500: N = 342 P = 472

Take into consideration how they were loaded up for the runs and whatnot.

Was 4th gear he doesn't tune in 3rd

Well the 255L was an upgrade on the SR lol. What should I be aiming for when I buy a new one?

The pump provided its getting the right voltage should have an issue with that power. I think it's time to put your inspector gadget hat on and start investigating.

I'd say, once again, attention to detail on the setup is where the better results are. Big, size matched exhausts blah blah.

Got a sheet Nick?

Exactly.

I had 340rwkw with -9s on 98, but it wasn't a stock engine - and that is where the extra bits/gains come from

Nothing at the moment as I'm content with the power. I think I'll get more gains if I upgrade my actuators 1st and see how I go.

Eventually I'll rip the cat out and the 3" exhaust and replace it all with 3.5".

I see!

An actuator upgrade will do it good.

Yeah, if you want to get over the 350 rwkW mark, go 3.5".

Exactly.

I had 340rwkw with -9s on 98, but it wasn't a stock engine - and that is where the extra bits/gains come from

+1

Other thing is the turbos are REALLY laggy.

I get 18psi by 6000rpm and power drops off completely at 22psi at 7500rpm so theres no point revving past there...

The pump provided its getting the right voltage should have an issue with that power. I think it's time to put your inspector gadget hat on and start investigating.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...