Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

KING87 - what's the power difference between 23psi and 25psi on your car? i'm contemplating pushing mine a little harder.
and my 2c on the question of the thread - buy the -5's. I've never met someone that doesn't want to chase more power in the future. Buy bigger now for the bigger/longer term picture.

Edited by tk80

Under 300kw on a stock engine would be a good buffer. I was only running 325awkw when it let go. But then again I had a 89 gtr so the engine had a long life.

+1

It's safe and still got some pull when you need it!

understatement......I have deep reservations about that engine's longevity at that power / boost level ......I sure as hell would not want to be in the car when she goes BANG!

Yeah, know the feel!

As long as you know what to expect and be prepared fork out the cash.

Then just keep driving and enjoy it as it is.

KING87 - what's the power difference between 23psi and 25psi on your car? i'm contemplating pushing mine a little harder.

and my 2c on the question of the thread - buy the -5's. I've never met someone that doesn't want to chase more power in the future. Buy bigger now for the bigger/longer term picture.

Agreed.

Yeah I know what to expect and I will keep you all posted if and when it does let go.

Not sure what it made on 23psi it's got 25 @ 5000 RPM I will try dig up the dyno print out.

-5's for the win for street and track but agreed they could use a few more cubes behind them

On the street.

Ahh this has pushed me to get -5s now.. With a built engine (forged pistons, rods, cams etc) and on e85.. What would be the power difference from 9s to 5s?

And the difference on hitting full boost would be from 4.5k for 9s and 5k for 5s?

Ahh this has pushed me to get -5s now.. With a built engine (forged pistons, rods, cams etc) and on e85.. What would be the power difference from 9s to 5s?

And the difference on hitting full boost would be from 4.5k for 9s and 5k for 5s?

Lower than that for both but remember boost is not a switch things happen way before full boost. And your producing the same power as -7s with- 5s way before full boost all the way to 7.5k and then when you change gears your always in the sweet spot. But as I said drive both and see what you like and then make your decision. Any reputable rb workshop will allow you to experience multiple setups they build if they see your serious.

understatement......I have deep reservations about that engine's longevity at that power / boost level ......I sure as hell would not want to be in the car when she goes BANG!

Good excuse to build a real engine :)

Ants wrote; ...I sure as hell would not want to be in the car when she goes BANG!

Ha ha the best. I was driving around with a spun bearing for 5 months until it eventually went bang. Last 2 months it sounded like a tractor. As soon as I heard the bearing a put slick50 in it and it lasted for 5 months. Everyone was shocked including me ha ha.

Used to drive 50 kms a day on the ring road carpark and other drivers used to look in amazement at the knocking sound coming from my 33.

Edited by XGTRX

How was the crank when you pulled it out? Lol

When it totally gave way it was like rattling a can of bolts. luckily it happened in the driveway and I switched it off straight away.

When my engine builder took the sump off to send it off for the extension he just shook his head. The 4th piston bearing was dislodged, rod was free and piston was wedged in the bore. There was more metal in the sump than oil. Ha ha classic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...