Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well im out.............. i just blew second gear tonight in mine

i suppose ill come and watch and i still want my calendar

any idea's on new gear box for r32 2.0lt ? 32gtr box any good?

  • Replies 140
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Is there a price for lowest reading kw car?

Yeah... I'm willing to pay $500. (hint: note your spelling)

well im out.............. i just blew second gear tonight in mine

i suppose ill come and watch and i still want my calendar

any idea's on new gear box for r32 2.0lt ? 32gtr box any good?

Bummer :blush:

well im out.............. i just blew second gear tonight in mine

i suppose ill come and watch and i still want my calendar

any idea's on new gear box for r32 2.0lt ? 32gtr box any good?

RB25 gearbox mate :blush:

rb25 box are supposed to be good but ive been told that the gtr box is way better and pretty much un breakable?

any oppinions?

need one asap

anyway ill be there today still maybe chat to you blokes there and the mechanic running the show ay

The rb25 boxes are just as strong as the GTR boxes. Whoever told you the GTR boxes are unbreakable is incorrect, just as Jack who has busted 3 or Chris who as done 1, and a few other people. Yes they are one of the strongest factory boxes ever produced but they can break.

Just got home. Was a good turnout, and some really nice cars showed up.

Great to meet people face-to-face. Nabbed a few photos. If anyone has any objection to their car being posted up, PM me.

Thanks.

THANKS A CRAP LOAD AJ 'CAJFLY' for ringing i completely forgot haha. was pretty big when i turned up. wooo membership expires Decemeber 2010!! LOL. ohh and took some pictures whilst the car parks were full i'll upload them shortly!!

Bah - the attachment system freezes whenever I try to upload more than a few photos.

Here it is on photobucket:

http://s384.photobucket.com/albums/oo281/m...20-%20Kamikaze/

There are 32 pics of around 200kb each to aid loading. Some didn't turn out all too well - unfortunately neither my camera nor I are pro :P

Edited by Phatboy

Any thoughts on the accuracy of the dyno today?

I had a confusing result at 215 4wkw compared to my last dyno session of 282 4wkw.... and today i was running slightly more boost. i know all dyno's are different but with a difference that big, something is going on with my car or the dyno. I'm hoping its not my car that's the problem.

I reckon dyno for sure bud dont stress bout your car

i watched a few runs and im kinda glad my car wasnt put up there cause i would have been disappointed also

my mechanic told me before today that there dyno was screwed it puts out weird readings apparently

reason i say this is because i saw cars on there where the revs were going up and you can hear the power coming on

hard from the turbo chargers coming on boost and yet the dyno power reading at this stage was getting lower????

ive never seen a dyno do that before. on more than one car i must add.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...