Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was a shame I only made it right at the end of the day, but still put the car on the dyno and had a bit of a chat with Jamie and a few others that were hanging around.

  • Replies 140
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i dont know if its 40kw out or a certain %. My friends 100% standard evo 7 made 150awkw. Does that mean its got closer to 190 with a standard exhaust and standard boost?

A stock standard Evo will not be able to make 190atw. It's probably around the 170ish mark or high 160s.

190kw will require stage 1 mods and increase boost.

However, as many have said, different dynos have different readings.

Edited by sloutch
Was a shame I only made it right at the end of the day, but still put the car on the dyno and had a bit of a chat with Jamie and a few others that were hanging around.

Hey Antony! I PM'd a pic of your exhaust.

Got some last minute pics.

post-46584-1235350877_thumb.jpgpost-46584-1235350866_thumb.jpgpost-46584-1235350893_thumb.jpg

post-46584-1235350904_thumb.jpgpost-46584-1235350921_thumb.jpgpost-46584-1235350934_thumb.jpg

A stock standard Evo will not be able to make 190atw. It's probably around the 170ish mark or high 160s.

190kw will require stage 1 mods and increase boost.

However, as many have said, different dynos have different readings.

More so about 145 - low 150ish.

Thanks for that mate, definatly explains alot :blink:

No worries buddy! :D

More so about 145 - low 150ish.

Yeah thats about right, well at the Kamikaze dyno day, a stock White EVO 7 I saw made about 150 awkW's.

Cuz me and afew friends put a bet on see what it will make and I said 150kW. LOL!

but yeh 200 is easily achieved with an exhaust/cai, ecu and boost.

I was there also (had to go check up on my car thats been sitting there.)

Theres too many variables when it comes to dyno readings so the debate would never stop.

Edited by tenji`

Interesting.

A comparison between my dyno RE Customs and Kamikaze is only 15kw difference.

I logged my run and I attributed it to the fact I had bad fuel and knock.... I've been on holidays for a month, hence the bad/old fuel.

I made 207kw at Kamikaze and 222kw at RE.

The plot thickens =)

Came by at the end of the day and was pleased I could get my car on & off within 20 minutes - no waiting = happy :(

Car is pretty much stock, just a catback exhaust. About 150kw, 11psi MAP reading (my boost gauge reads about 13-14psi, so which one do I use as the accurate figure? Boost restrictor's in place so I figure the lower reading of 11psi is probably right). I figure about 150-160rwkw is about right for a standard gtr, unless someone tells me otherwise?

gtrdyno2.jpg

gtrdyno3.jpg

So you are saying that Dezz's car with a GTRS, injectors, 18psi, etc is really only making 218rwkw. Only 10-20rwkw more than most R33's with std turbo; i really don't think so :(

Or my setup, that is maxing out a 500hp turbo can only produce 284rwkw; highly unlikely.

The dyno is very low reading, but what i thought was consistent, so not all is lost as you can still compare mods to rwkw, between other cars.

Just for the record, with my previous setup, it was dynoed on 3 different dynos (EAS, Autosalon and Racingline) and the 3 read-outs were within 7rwkw of each other. So i am very confident that the EAS dyno is reading accurately.

Maybe it was the way they strapped some of the cars down. My car was strapped that hard that the tyres were well into the guards. This does not allow the car to "climb" onto the front roller and thus will lose traction. With some other cars, the guy running the dyno kept re-adjusting the straps, not sure why he didn't do that with mine as he even commented that the car kept losing traction and the graph clearly shows that at 5300rpm. The other guys that did most the strapping really had little idea, as the main guy kept fixing the straps, when he cbf'd.

same with my car

garrett turbo, 19psi, injectors, pfc etc and making 180rwkw??

i highly doubt it

edit: like i said before standard/standardish cars were making roughly the power they had, where the more powerful cars were down

As long as you use the same dyno to test, thats all you need to worry about etc.

I could get you all a 600rwkw graph for mine, or one with 120rwkw... big deal.

As long as your tuning on the same etc to notice differences, all you need to worry about.

Dyno days are good for a cheap 'check' of AFR/Boost etc

Like @ Dr. Drifts night, i was on 15psi, i thought i was on 12psi, obviously something has changed i need to look at :(

Problem with dynos is that there is no uniform rules on how they should be run etc etc...

whos to know exactly which dyno is the "correct" one.

go run a mph at the strip it will be a good indicator of whether your power is accurate or not.

As long as you use the same dyno to test, thats all you need to worry about etc.

I could get you all a 600rwkw graph for mine, or one with 120rwkw... big deal.

As long as your tuning on the same etc to notice differences, all you need to worry about.

Dyno days are good for a cheap 'check' of AFR/Boost etc

Like @ Dr. Drifts night, i was on 15psi, i thought i was on 12psi, obviously something has changed i need to look at ;)

I disagree. We're talking about legitamite dyno runs here, not temp sensors stuck near exhausts etc.

You can argue that the results are comparable to other cars run on the day, but even that can be disputed (see Aj's vs nick's for example) but at the end of the day you can't argue that that the dyno was giving low numbers for cars with normally decent power.

Hi all, thought I post my result, my car did 140kw on the day its a stock R34 GTT with std boost, only mod is exhaust not full exhaust system, and pod filter. I thnk wen i put on the Sau sticker i got an extra 5kws on each side. :blink:;)

Either it was my first run and the day was great fun, nice 2 meet some of u guys. :)

Came by at the end of the day and was pleased I could get my car on & off within 20 minutes - no waiting = happy ;)

Car is pretty much stock, just a catback exhaust. About 150kw, 11psi MAP reading (my boost gauge reads about 13-14psi, so which one do I use as the accurate figure? Boost restrictor's in place so I figure the lower reading of 11psi is probably right). I figure about 150-160rwkw is about right for a standard gtr, unless someone tells me otherwise?

gtrdyno2.jpg

gtrdyno3.jpg

I was told the dyno was running low on the day at Kamikaze... But ppl are debating weather it is or not...

Friend of mine ran his R32 GTR, which was stock (air box, exhaust, cat and boost) all factory.

He got 155kW at all 4 wheels at RE Customs back in March 2008.

I was expecting alittle more out of the R33 GTR's...

If I were you I would be putting in a aftermarket Down/Front pipes and a high flow cat and it will free up your exhaust a lot more, especialy for GTR's.

+ Other things can effect a dyno run, like doing an oil change will help, check your spark plugs, clean your air filters and the type of fuel you use... A small things can add up...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...