Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i got afc analog one with the knob would that affect anything and i never noticed it before as it never ever did it i notice it in the passenger side mirror are you guys sure this is safe.

also really dumb question how do you guys put those movies and pics under your user name

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25545-some-smoke/#findComment-543066
Share on other sites

The one knob AFCs are essentially useless. I'd say I'm almost 99% sure that's what is making you run rich and causing the smoke. They only allow you to add/remove fuel across the entire rev range, so you cannot fine tune it. So if you are adding 5% fuel at 5000rpm (just as an example), you are also adding that at 1000rpm. Not efficient at all. To be honest, I have no idea why Apexi made it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25545-some-smoke/#findComment-543528
Share on other sites

I got greyish smoke too :P

A couple months ago the engine made tapping noise which sounds very very similar to my old Mitsubishi Galant with valve stem seal problem :( unlike my old Mitsu where noise is still there all the way, in my skyline the noise is gone when engine is warm

But after detonation problem on a recent cruise, the cold start tapping noise is gone and hasn't come back since.... wtf????

Must be something else...

turbo seal on its way out?

is that tapping noise = turbo wheel touching its housing?

that detonation (due to over boost to 15psi) could have chipped the wheel edges so it no longer touch the housing?

I'm sure exhaust wheel still there, car can still make that much boost over 10psi (but I've turned it down to 8psi since)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25545-some-smoke/#findComment-543543
Share on other sites

Originally posted by rs73

I got greyish smoke too :(

A couple months ago the engine made tapping noise which sounds very very similar to my old Mitsubishi Galant with valve stem seal problem :D unlike my old Mitsu where noise is still there all the way, in my skyline the noise is gone when engine is warm

But after detonation problem on a recent cruise, the cold start tapping noise is gone and hasn't come back since.... wtf????  

Must be something else...

turbo seal on its way out?

is that tapping noise = turbo wheel touching its housing?

that detonation (due to over boost to 15psi) could have chipped the wheel edges so it no longer touch the housing?

I'm sure exhaust wheel still there, car can still make that much boost over 10psi (but I've turned it down to 8psi since)

If the turbo wheel was touching the housing it would whale/howl not tap.

I would actually see a mechanic and do a compression test, amounst other checks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25545-some-smoke/#findComment-544637
Share on other sites

hehehehe , try this go downhill a very long and steep hill stay in 4th or third gear do not touch the accelerator untill u get to the bottom when u get to the bottom of the hill eccelerate look in the mirror for smoke if u see blue smoke its u r valve stem seals . if it blows blue smoke under hard ecceleration and or high revs then its piston rings . just black smoke running a little rich but u'll get more at high rpm if running rich .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25545-some-smoke/#findComment-544711
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Al

If the turbo wheel was touching the housing it would whale/howl not tap.

I would actually see a mechanic and do a compression test, amounst other checks.

Al,

My turbo squeal like a mad pig on cold.... is that normal?

When warm it doesn't....

Anyway my car is now in the "hospital" now... hopefully

nothing serious...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25545-some-smoke/#findComment-545055
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...