Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

just got my rb25 going, it was a stagea motor and ive put a 2wd sump on,

so i noticed that the rb25 dip stick is shorter than rb20? is this because of the sump for the awd system is smaller, so thats why you have a shorter stick to make up the the loss of oil?

reason i ask is because when i first start my car oil pressure goes up to 5-6kg/2 (hope thats the right measure) but when its fully warm and idling at 750-800 rpm it sits on 2kg, it may only be going up to 6 because its a pretty thick oil and the fact that its going through a oil cooler and relocate kit?

oil im using is penrite Sinthetic 5, 5-50w or 60w can remeber what its called, on the website they reccomend using a semi sinthetic HPR10 or HPR5?

should i not worry about the size of dipstick and leave oil at the hieght according to the stick?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255629-rb25det-dipstick/
Share on other sites

Oil level in the sump and oil pessure are totally unrelated (until you don't have enough oil in the sump to pump it around!) The oil pressure is a function of the oil itself.

A 50 or 60 grade oil is too "heavy" for a RB25, you should be using a 30 or 40, ie 0-30 / 5-30 / 5-40 / 10-40.

duno about the 4wd sump, but eevrytime i change my oil, i put in the whole 5 litres and the oil mark is dead on the line. plus the oil filter is usualy an extra 500 or so ML

on a side note, mine when warm idling oil pressure is on 3 - 3.5kg

tru well i was just checking, i think ive put it 4.5L so yeah, i think it should be fine, the only reason about oil pressure and amount you put in, is the fact that i used to work at subaru and i remember an guy doing a home service on his wrx, he over filled the oil a shitload and it lost comp in one piston because of it,

so i think it would be fine,

as for oil, use a 5-40 oil? royal purple or something,

Cheers JV

my rb25 takes 4.5L of oil, that takes it to the full line, would at least start with that much,

as for oil im using a valvoline 5w-30 dura blend, maybe gone through 6-7 oil changes using

it and never had a prob

duno about the 4wd sump, but eevrytime i change my oil, i put in the whole 5 litres and the oil mark is dead on the line. plus the oil filter is usualy an extra 500 or so ML

on a side note, mine when warm idling oil pressure is on 3 - 3.5kg

Thats too much pressure, you sure you got it right? 2 is OK at idle, 3.5 to 4 at cruise and 4+ above say 3000rpm.

Thankyou :)

With my N1 pump, no restrictors and 10W50 oil I see (when warm) 10-20psi at idle depending on oil temp and an extra 20psi for every 1000rpm (so 30-40psi @ 2000rpm, 50-60psi @ 3000rpm, 70-80psi @ 4000rpm and anything over that is pretty much 100psi).

See Bubba it wasn't hard to drag you into the 21st Century.......was it!!! Only been metric since 1975!!! lol

So you have 1 to 1.5 at idle, 2 to 3 at 2000rpm, 3.5 to 4.2 at 3000rpm and then ever onwards and upwards, thats pretty much what I have [and said]. So we either have two engines about to let go, or its normal.........I vote normal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
    • 300kW is so boring in a Skyline, you'll get spanked by someone's mum's Golf with Alibaba pipes, and an email tune.
×
×
  • Create New...