Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

just got my rb25 going, it was a stagea motor and ive put a 2wd sump on,

so i noticed that the rb25 dip stick is shorter than rb20? is this because of the sump for the awd system is smaller, so thats why you have a shorter stick to make up the the loss of oil?

reason i ask is because when i first start my car oil pressure goes up to 5-6kg/2 (hope thats the right measure) but when its fully warm and idling at 750-800 rpm it sits on 2kg, it may only be going up to 6 because its a pretty thick oil and the fact that its going through a oil cooler and relocate kit?

oil im using is penrite Sinthetic 5, 5-50w or 60w can remeber what its called, on the website they reccomend using a semi sinthetic HPR10 or HPR5?

should i not worry about the size of dipstick and leave oil at the hieght according to the stick?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255629-rb25det-dipstick/
Share on other sites

Oil level in the sump and oil pessure are totally unrelated (until you don't have enough oil in the sump to pump it around!) The oil pressure is a function of the oil itself.

A 50 or 60 grade oil is too "heavy" for a RB25, you should be using a 30 or 40, ie 0-30 / 5-30 / 5-40 / 10-40.

duno about the 4wd sump, but eevrytime i change my oil, i put in the whole 5 litres and the oil mark is dead on the line. plus the oil filter is usualy an extra 500 or so ML

on a side note, mine when warm idling oil pressure is on 3 - 3.5kg

tru well i was just checking, i think ive put it 4.5L so yeah, i think it should be fine, the only reason about oil pressure and amount you put in, is the fact that i used to work at subaru and i remember an guy doing a home service on his wrx, he over filled the oil a shitload and it lost comp in one piston because of it,

so i think it would be fine,

as for oil, use a 5-40 oil? royal purple or something,

Cheers JV

my rb25 takes 4.5L of oil, that takes it to the full line, would at least start with that much,

as for oil im using a valvoline 5w-30 dura blend, maybe gone through 6-7 oil changes using

it and never had a prob

duno about the 4wd sump, but eevrytime i change my oil, i put in the whole 5 litres and the oil mark is dead on the line. plus the oil filter is usualy an extra 500 or so ML

on a side note, mine when warm idling oil pressure is on 3 - 3.5kg

Thats too much pressure, you sure you got it right? 2 is OK at idle, 3.5 to 4 at cruise and 4+ above say 3000rpm.

Thankyou :)

With my N1 pump, no restrictors and 10W50 oil I see (when warm) 10-20psi at idle depending on oil temp and an extra 20psi for every 1000rpm (so 30-40psi @ 2000rpm, 50-60psi @ 3000rpm, 70-80psi @ 4000rpm and anything over that is pretty much 100psi).

See Bubba it wasn't hard to drag you into the 21st Century.......was it!!! Only been metric since 1975!!! lol

So you have 1 to 1.5 at idle, 2 to 3 at 2000rpm, 3.5 to 4.2 at 3000rpm and then ever onwards and upwards, thats pretty much what I have [and said]. So we either have two engines about to let go, or its normal.........I vote normal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...