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R32 Manual Conversion

partyboy73
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White GTS-T Mentor

White GTS-T

Posted
Posted

Because the wheel base is the same, i don't think there's any difference between the two, but i'm not 100% sure on that. Is your car already turbo? I think all you should need is a turbo manual tail shaft. I think the only difference is from turbo to n/a and auto to manual but not from 2 door to 4 door, but i could be wrong.

Having said that, personally, i would still make sure i had a 2 door and a 4 door tail shaft when it came time to do the conversion.

Some one else may be able to provide some more insight. :happy:

  • 2 years later...
RDirty24door Contributor

RDirty24door

Posted
Posted

where would i find this info as i just bought a 2 door tailshaft. the only difference i no of is yes between auto and manual and the 4 doors have different boot lights and rear bar and the 4 door is only 50mm longer than the 2 door. if anyone can concrete confirm this it would be greatly appreciated.

BANGN Experienced

BANGN

Posted
Posted

you will need to modify the gearbox bracket. The 4 bolt holes that are in the body for the bracket are further forward in an auto, the hole in the floor is also in a different position but thats ok.

what will happen is regardless if you use an auto/manual bracket (they are the same anyway) you will go to bolt up the bracket and only one hole on each side will line up, you will need to either modify the bracket like I did to make it longer and drill 2 new holes for the other two bolts..

OR

get two flat steel bar peices and bolt them to the underside of the bracket, recess the head of one of the bolts into the chassis and drill a hole at the other end of the bar to mount into the body.

you will then need to bridge the neutral park switch circuit so it thinks its in park all the time, otherwise it wont start

RDirty24door Contributor

RDirty24door

Posted
Posted

you will need to modify the gearbox bracket. The 4 bolt holes that are in the body for the bracket are further forward in an auto, the hole in the floor is also in a different position but thats ok.

what will happen is regardless if you use an auto/manual bracket (they are the same anyway) you will go to bolt up the bracket and only one hole on each side will line up, you will need to either modify the bracket like I did to make it longer and drill 2 new holes for the other two bolts..

OR

get two flat steel bar peices and bolt them to the underside of the bracket, recess the head of one of the bolts into the chassis and drill a hole at the other end of the bar to mount into the body.

you will then need to bridge the neutral park switch circuit so it thinks its in park all the time, otherwise it wont start

cheers for the reply mate. couple of questions

1. if you say the holes in the floor are further forward in an auto that would make them 2 different chassis auto/manual correct? as you said only 2 of the holes line up so is this with the gear box mount connected to the steel plate that bolts to the floor? is there anywhere on here that has a diagram of where to bridge the neutral switch?

thanks.

BANGN Experienced

BANGN

Posted
Posted

that is correct.. if you look under your car the 4 holes in the floor are actually a metal panel that has been spot welded around the tunnel. They positioned this peice in one spot for auto and one spot for manual. So yes the bodys are different, but this is the only difference. Auto/Manual tailshafts appeared to be the same length too.

I did find a thread on here on where to bridge it, its a peice of piss. Where the fuse box is in the engine bay there are some grey plugs on top of eachother. I really cant remember which one you do, but basically you splice into one of the wires on one of those grey plugs and you bridge it into another one of the plugs there.. Search and you will find, thats how I worked out what to do

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