Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just dropped in a 68k Rb26 with HKS 2510 turbos into my 32 gtr. She started up really easy idled really really rough and blew alot of white smoke. This finally cleared so i guess it was just oil from the engine sitting around for a long time.

Heres the current problem. It is really really slow to free rev takes ages to get to even 4k. Stabbing the throttle does stuff all compaired to my old rb20.

Taking it for a test drive tomorrow to see how it goes.

Now I know there is one problem the CAS was loose. We have set the timing to where it idles the best and tightened it up. Want to get a timing light on it but cant see how with the coil plugs.

Any ideas on setting timing and the possable problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256730-new-26-just-dropped-in/
Share on other sites

you can still use a timing light to find the base timing id say its either CAS or maybe the timing belt now put on properly possible skipped tooth?

Where do you hook the timing light up too? i doubt its skipped a tooth on the timing as belt is well tensioned and was not removed being a 68k engine it should be due for replacement yet.

Taking ages to spin up is probably due to timing too retarded, so that maximum combustion pressure occurs after TDC. Using a timing light on RB-series engines has been covered numerous times.

Did you get the injectors cleaned before you installed the engine.

... Running some injector cleaner through it with the fuel. ...
Pretty much a waste of time, if the injectors are already dirty. And if the engine has been sitting around for a while, who knows what condition they are in?
Where do you hook the timing light up too? i doubt its skipped a tooth on the timing as belt is well tensioned and was not removed being a 68k engine it should be due for replacement yet.

Run a HT (conventional coil lead) lead between the coil pack and spark plug and clip the timing light on that.

Timing gun attached and working. Just need to be 100% sure about setting the timing.

Idle at 950rppm timing should be set to 20deg BTDC

From left to right what does each mark represent? I think i have it done right but just want to make sure.

Have searched through the gtr service manual but at 300 pages i haven't found anything yet.

Cheers for the help

left to right what does each mark represent? I think i have it done right but just want to make sure.

Have searched through the gtr service manual but at 300 pages i haven't found anything yet.

Details are shown on page EN-11 of the genuine service manual......28 pages in from the start of the manual (well, it is in my electronic version)

Don't know how I missed that part. OK Timing set now. Issue with coil pack fixed and she now seams to be running alot better.

Al tho its now blowing a heap of white smoke when i give it a bit of throttle. Smells like oil burning. Could it be oil in the cooler pipes from the old engine?

  • 1 year later...

May as well update this even tho car is gone.

White smoke was from a massive build up of oil in the cooler pipes from the old engine.

Engine problem was due to dodgy silicon joiner that would only open up under boost. Car ran perfect after this.

Edited by Crans
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...