Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive contacted a few wreckers and the cheapest RB26 is around $7500. But that comes with everything, manifolds, turbos etc etc 3 months warentee. So i could sell off my old engine plus turbos etc as i wont need it...

There is a private sale in Perth, $4000 comes with everything so again i could sell it all off and come out cheaper etc but of course no warentee etc...

But one wreckers will do it for $3500 but its a bare bare engine. Plus you have to give them your old Bare engine.... also 3 months warentee...

What would you do??

Is it worth the chance with the private sale that the engine is good etc etc? As it will work out cheaper in the long run?

Or do the $3500 for a bare engine and put it all together myself but then wont be able to sell anything, may work out a bit more expensive but have the warentee...

Or go the $7500 and try to recope some of my money by selling off all of my old parts and old engine etc..?

Just a bit up in the air....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257124-unsure-of-what-to-do/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'd be looking at it that a full motor you've found being $7500 as opposed to $10000 for a rebuild... hence I'd go a rebuild but I know that's not what you asked :D

If it were me and wanting to get rid of the car I'd chance the 3500 one, see if he has a comp test for it then go that way. Remember you are getting rid of it, no point spending the extra money (or hassle selling off peices) if you don't have to.

Just how I look at it :(

Id be rebuilding the current engine, or grabbing the 4k (plus shipping) perth option.

problem is the aussie $$ atm, if this happened June last year youd be rebuilding for ~$6ish

LOOK around more. MOAR I SAY :D

research heaps on the net - get the complete parts list you need. I reckon shopping around world wide on the net you can get all your parts cheap enough

then hassel and hassel some more for a good price for labour for the rebuilding, rundown and tune process.

Raw Brokerage have an engine for $3500usd. Buy other parts from them and get shipping cheaper. http://shop.rawbrokerage.com/category.sc?categoryId=31

Lewis Engines do a basic $6500 rebuild job. thats a good starting point IMHO. http://www.lewisengines.com.au/prod245.htm

For another $3000 for a fully decked out head and you'd be loving it ! http://www.lewisengines.com.au/prod178.htm

Id be chatting to Lewis Engines about your current engine and parts you have and what you want out of it.

good luck. But yeah for say 8-9k you can be onroad again pulling decent power knowing everything is fresh and ready & waiting for more when you are.

I'd also try ringing around some other engine rebuilders not just ones synonymous for working on high performance imports.

At the end of the day a motors a motor, as long as the builder is competant and everything is built correctly and within tolerances i cant imagine there really being issues. That and most places should offer you some sort of warranty period. Same goes with the machine work, as long as the rebuilder is competent then should be no issue. I've heard of guys that have had high power sr's etc being built at places like city dismantlers and having no probs. That said i most likely wouldnt go there, not for any particular reason but yeh just dont think i could bring myself to :) .

A quick call around by me found prices varying from mid 4k to mid 6k for the same work (mild forged rebuild)

Edited by WhO

lol!

But seriously i cant really keep the car and buy a house so the car will be sold off. Which i am pretty cut about but hey cant have it all right...

And as far as the labour costs i have a friend who is a mechanic who will pull out the engine and replace the engine back in it for me etc so there wont be any charge there. Also he will pull it down and put the other parts on the new engine if need be etc...

Im loiking the idea of going to the wreckers in Adleaide. As has been said, its just less of a hassel. You go there pick it up done etc....

But yer i was just asking for advice thats all

Oh and as far as can i hold onto it. I really cant have it sitting around to long. So it will be brought back to standered and sold off cheap cheap....

Then ill sell off the proformance parts

Sometimes i think its easier and CHEAPER to sell off the girlfriend lol

Edited by Adz2332

if you have made up your mind in about selling the car

then i would suggest start selling the accessories/aftermarket parts now mate

it will be all sold hopefully before your car is ready and then all you have to worry about is selling the car.

PS i will buy the strut brace if it fits my car today!

It's Lobotomy. Removal of the frontal lobe of the brain, used to be done to mental patients. What they did to Jack Nicholson's character, McMurphy, in the movie "One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest"

nah he meant Labotomy. Its when you remove the brain from a Labrador.

-D

Ok I dont know the full story...But how bad is your engine????

Cheapest option would be to just throw some new pistons,rings and bearings in her.. Depending on how bad the crank is would need a linish and crack test atleast and maybe hone the bores :laugh:

Just becasue you throw "standard items" back in doesn't mean it's not strong..It cant handle stupid power but a fresh rebuild sells GTRs quicker than a engine being put in that you dont know what's in inside it! Also while its open I would throw a sump baffle in it and the oil restictor in the head

This way you can sell off your aftermarlet parts as well..

Well i took it to boostworks and they had a listern and said it has a huge knock and the main bearing was spun. Full engine rebuild.

Including new crank, head recon, recon the bores etc etc

What number bearing?? Have you tested and seen the crank yet..sometimes they can be saved!

Why dio you need a head recon :laugh:

Honing of the bores is standard in a rebuild..

I would definately crack it open and see how bad it is..either way you will be rebuilding that engine or buying another one to put in..

not sure what bearing....

But they said the head would need a recon or freshen up etc just by the sound of it, if that makes sense...

and also said even if the crank can be saved it would be over $500 to have it tidied up etc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...