Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

chu_rulz- this is a mission, engine alone will set you back from $6500, then you need a rb25 gearbox to run it in rear wheel drive only about $2000/guesstament, drive shaft, diff $??, fuel pump $450, gtr fmic and custom piping $1500, a serious brake upgrade lets say $3-4000 custom job, new 3" exhaust dump pipe back $1500, good syspension may be tag on another $1000+ to the brake upgrade as these two may go hand in hand and don't forget unless your doing all this your self you'll be paying someone to do it for you$$$ lifes a bitch!

In the long run if you do it all right the first time you'll have one of the fastest cars, after just a ecu mod or swap, in the skyline family!

have you got the latest zoom with the r31 on the cover, if not i'll scan it and pm it to you as the r31 has done a rb26 swap!

Hey guys.... I tried to install a boost controller on my HR30 and i have run into a few problems.

today i was attempting to install my Turbosmart gated boost controller with my mate, and we didnt have much success. It has a triple hybrid turbo. the compressor is standard i think and the exhaust is from some comodore. the response was very out of wack and sometimes it wouldnt come on boost at all. basically it was behaving nothing like it should, and we were 100% sure of all installation points... any ideas??

we also after having no success with the first item, tried another model that my freind had awaiting employment in his car, and had the exact same result. we had not turned up the boost at all, and it was behaving very oddly.

any help PLEASE!

Also why is there a tee coming from the compressor housing and the outlet pipe and feeding the wastegate actuator? Isn't there normally only one coming from the outlet pipe and feeding the actuator?

do they both need to be connected or can i block one?

I really need some advise on this. Any help would be much appreciated. :D

there are things to remember when increasing boost, its all good to play around with boost levels, but if the ecu is set for X amount of boost then X amount is the best. don't get me wrong the l20et turbo is not runnig a ceramic shaft so boost can go, but if theres no fuel theres no fuel, did you take a boost reading to start with?

there are things to remember when increasing boost, its all good to play around with boost levels, but if the ecu is set for X amount of boost then X amount is the best. don't get me wrong the l20et turbo is not runnig a ceramic shaft so boost can go, but if theres no fuel theres no fuel, did you take a boost reading to start with?

i'm not playing around with it yet though. i just hooked it up and was running it on standard boost so it should make no difference.

Ok,did you follow the guide you got with the boost gate as i bought one today/24/12/03 and have read the guide today and it states start from 0, there are things to cross out?

I got the car very resently and the car came with a boost controller and just that nothing else. i don't have them. is there anyway you could send them to me?

cool no dramas

i might just take it to a suspension dude and give them the parts i got and tell them what i want done

any thought on how much injector collars cost? L24 im talkin about,

3 of mine are fugged and the orings are gorn...ie leaking

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...