Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

question - for the firing order on an rb20, how do i run the leads to the coil packs.

is it sparky one to coil one, s2 to coil 2 etc...

or is it sparky 1 to coil one, sparky 2 to coil 5, sparky 3 to coil 3???

assuming the firing order to be 1-5-3-6-2-4

if anyone understands what im rambling about

STU

Going to DRIFT meet at Oran Park now! but will ask the MANWELL when I get back and let you know. :ghost:

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hahaha got the f*cker going!

fixed the leads up then there was no fuel pressure but its fixed now hahahha i love it

started it up with just the 3inch dump on there hehe solid shit. sounds mad

anyways thanks all for the replies, will add another post when i get more done.

yeah ghostrider is 1-5-3-6-2-4, good stuff

let us know how the meet goes i wana see pics

i'll get a quote on turbo back 3" hi flow cat and decent final, hoping it'll end around the $1200 mark or i'll have to put of engineering it for two weeks or so, i looked in to hi tech mufflers here on the coast as they make a stainless cat back system for the r30 at $1600 plus $600 for the turbo to cat front pipe, abit X'ie but probibly money well spent?

Hey guys,

been a while since i've posted, thought i'd get some opinion's on an engine transplant, since the recent death of my fj...i'm thinking of either going another fj20 or an rb20det. Is the rb a fairly straightforward fit? What would be the major costs involved of a conversion?

hey thats true tomj, the the fj20 definately feels alot more torquier down low!

although i'm having trouble finding an fj20 for a decent price...justjap have a halfcut for 2500...i've tried alot of the usual place but no one has any in stock.

also i'm a bit concerned of the condition of a used fj.

i've had a few quotes for a rebuild, but i think my head's gone too..

Hey guys,

been a while since i've posted, thought i'd get some opinion's on an engine transplant, since the recent death of my fj...i'm thinking of either going another fj20 or an rb20det. Is the rb a fairly straightforward fit? What would be the major costs involved of a conversion?

I'm in the same boat as you, whereas my fj20 only has 80 000k's the N/A power just doesn't do it for my heavy dr30. I just don't know what to drop in, im looking in the fj20et region but they are quite expensive now and a reconditioning would be a must. But then again i just brought the latest issue of ZOOM magazine and they have a fj20 power build story which has renewed my vigour for the mighty fj20. It all really comes done to costs and how much work your willing to do yourself, where a fj20 will slip in the rb20 is a tight fit and needs a lot of wiring adjustments and such which if your planning on paying someone to do it, it ends up being quite expensive whereas the fj20 may appear more expensive, its not just easier to fit, tune for the car it ends up being cheaper.

Sorry for the long post. ;)

If you buy a front cut, or engine conversion package, which will come with the engine harness and ecu, all the electrics can nearly be done yourself.

I am no auto elec, and I am doing an RB30/25 conversion to my HR30, starting with n/a engines, making them turbo.

I bought an R32 GTSt RB25DET ECU and loom and I will be putting most of it together myself.

What or how do you call an DR30 HEAVY???? What are you comparing it to???? Maybe compared to a Mini, but to another Skyline, it's one of the lightest. DR's max weight 1250Kg, R31's OZZY sedans 1600Kg, HR31 coupes 1350Kg. How you say heavy????

hey guys, i got the skyline back and she's running fantastic, just need to get a tailshaft made up and i can drive it =) Has anyone had to do the custom tailshaft thing in adelaide before and can recomend someone?

Ran into one other problem today, the gearbox mount for the old automatic is obviously not going to fit, but i have a 5 speed mount of an early model '83 MR30, and have learned today that the chasis on the early and late models are a bit different, the gearbox x-member holes which mount to the chasis on the the early models are about 4" shorter accoss than that of the late model like mine which measure roughly 1foot 4". I can fit the early model mount inbetween the walls of the tunnel! If anyone has a late model 5speed gbox x-member they would like to sell, ill buy it :D

hey guys, i got the skyline back and she's running fantastic, just need to get a tailshaft made up and i can drive it =) Has anyone had to do the custom tailshaft thing in adelaide before and can recomend someone?

Ran into one other problem today, the gearbox mount for the old automatic is obviously not going to fit, but i have a 5 speed mount of an early model '83 MR30, and have learned today that the chasis on the early and late models are a bit different, the gearbox x-member holes which mount to the chasis on the the early models are about 4" shorter accoss than that of the late model like mine which measure roughly 1foot 4". I can fit the early model mount inbetween the walls of the tunnel! If anyone has a late model 5speed gbox x-member they would like to sell, ill buy it :D

Send me some dimensions of what you need.

Bolt holes centre to centre etc.

I have both here I think, but have to be sure.

Let me know and I prob have what you need. :ghost:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...