Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You looking at the C-Red one?  Getting that through Regency would be a pain in the arse because a lot of that stuff would have to come off before the numbers check, otherwise they'd send it over the pits

I'll sell you a Tekamon 2 door for 12 :(

What is your takemon 2 door? I want to know more, as i am looking for one now.

Yeah, i was looking at the C-Red one. I think all of their cars come with rego? anyhow, i emailed them asking for info, but they havent written back. Tell me more about your DR, I live in Whyalla, so i would prefer to buy from the same state. As youree in Adelaide, i dont have to travel so far.

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It doesnt matter if its registered in WA, SA rego is much stricter, and it will still have to go through Regency for a numbers check, at which point they will spot the big turbo, front mount etc and send you through for a full roadworthy

My car is a RSX Coupe. Not really looking to sell but...

i think we are going to find it terribly hard to put actual images on a t shirt, how about a wire mesh design? i will find a similar pic of an r34 t shirt i have

The wire mesh design is such a good idea, but do you have anyone who can do it? please make sure its not cluttered and has a dr import 2dr (my car type lol).

Any more details on progress?

The wire mesh design is such a good idea, but do you have anyone who can do it? please make sure its not cluttered and has a dr import 2dr (my car type lol).  

Any more details on progress?

After discounting some of the suggestions and using PM info, I think this is the go.

As we only have 3 models that are popularly found in Australia, I think it's a cool way to go.

www.skylinesaustralia.com

R30 CLUB

Then the 3 models underneath like Nissansilvia.com.

The 3 models being DR30 Iron Mask 2 Dr Coupes, 4 Dr Standard Front Sedans & Hatch.

How we make the models, doesn't matter at this stage, I just want agreement on a layout, then I can work up some final plans.

Hi Guys,

Any of the SA members that know Crimmo, would you stir him up to send me some pics of his tough looking sedan so that it can be considered for the shirt design.

I also want a clear pic of a stock DR IRON MASK coupe, if someone can oblige.

I don't want this to go on forever, I want to put it to bed as soon as I can so that it can be made, sent to the printers, get screens made etc.

Tah!

well im assuming its off an R31 coz it looks like R31 type lips ive seen on pics of R31s about the internet! kinda like the one off GTS-R's n stuff. like the one that lowers itself as u speed up on 31s, except mine is just a rubber lip and is fixed in place with about 20 screws along the underside!! it came on the car. duno if it is 31 lip or properly meant for 30. looks similar to the 31 ones though. i cant attach a front pic of my car coz its too large :)

Hi Guys,

Any of the SA members that know Crimmo, would you stir him up to send me some pics of his tough looking sedan so that it can be considered for the shirt design.

I also want a clear pic of a stock DR IRON MASK coupe, if someone can oblige.

I don't want this to go on forever, I want to put it to bed as soon as I can so that it can be made, sent to the printers, get screens made etc.

Tah!

Ummm i've got a couple of pics of it in my front yard just when it went back on the road, prolly not the best though..i'll stir him up in a minute for u if u want..

']well im assuming its off an R31 coz it looks like R31 type lips ive seen on pics of R31s about the internet! kinda like the one off GTS-R's n stuff. like the one that lowers itself as u speed up on 31s, except mine is just a rubber lip and is fixed in place with about 20 screws along the underside!! it came on the car. duno if it is 31 lip or properly meant for 30. looks similar to the 31 ones though. i cant attach a front pic of my car coz its too large :rant:

The R31 lip that lowers itself is on the HR31 GTT and GTX (Are they the right models? or is it GTS and GTX?) Anyhow, the GTS-R has a rubber lower lip, maybe that is what you have on yours?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...