Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

boost is not related to stock coils keeping up or not

they simply die of old age

so you can run 27psi if you like

one day they will die and misfire regardless of engine boost

once the engine is on load, it will misfire

so run whatever you like

1.3kgcm2 if you want

the turbo is a high flow, the ecu is std but has a haltch intercepter connected which has been tuned, The engine has forged pistons. Im guessing the coils are as old as the car. Someone told me it could be the higher boost is blowing out the spark?

breaking down spark is different to coils dying

coils die due to age, when they die, like i said, they misfire as soon as the engine is on load

ie one day its fine, next misfire city, so its all of a sudden.

spark breaking down is usually too much boost or wrong gap or intake temp too high

or combination of all three usually. if running less boost cures the misfire its probably spark breaking down

my coils lasted 160,000 then gave up

coils die due to age, when they die, like i said, they misfire as soon as the engine is on load

ie one day its fine, next misfire city, so its all of a sudden.

In my experience the typical coil misfire is the insulation giving out, everyone I know who has put work into decently re-insulating them have fixed it fine. I run up to 18psi on my original S2 R33 coils with extra insulation on them is going fine :(

Yea it happened really bad one night when the air was still pretty hot. I found a few FAQ's on how to insulate the coils, So i might give that a go and replace the spark plugs. What better out of BCPR6E or BCPR7E? Or do people recommend any other ones?

who can repair coils?

I have splitfires in mine atm, sometimes when I leave car to warm up in morning, it will run on 5 cylinders, ill go out, disconnect connection to coil #3, plug it back in and away it goes back on 6 cylinders.

But when I drive and give it a little stick, it starts miss-firing so i assume its that faulty coil?

who can repair coils?

I have splitfires in mine atm, sometimes when I leave car to warm up in morning, it will run on 5 cylinders, ill go out, disconnect connection to coil #3, plug it back in and away it goes back on 6 cylinders.

But when I drive and give it a little stick, it starts miss-firing so i assume its that faulty coil?

the 10+ year old plug or wiring is likely at fault vs a new ~ish splitfire coilpack set

You can also get the coil pack loom from Nissan for around $140AUD from memory... its pretty cheap if the plugs are a bit stuffed.

I purchased new for mine with the splitfires, good insurance.

And for the record i made 370rwkw on stock RB25 coils, they were in very good condition :D

You can also get the coil pack loom from Nissan for around $140AUD from memory... its pretty cheap if the plugs are a bit stuffed.

I purchased new for mine with the splitfires, good insurance.

And for the record i made 370rwkw on stock RB25 coils, they were in very good condition :D

yeah...quite a high price..it might be better to find a private seller they might charge 30 bucks or lower.

A private seller for a coil harness?

I paid $120 for mine from RHDJapan, with shipping it worked out to the same as getting it from Nissan but got it in one week instead of three. I looked up the harness on RHDJapan recently and they're up around AU$270 delivered now :)

I was troubleshooting a misfire when hot issue for AGES, turned out it was the insides of the coil harness plugs falling apart.

yeah...quite a high price..it might be better to find a private seller they might charge 30 bucks or lower.

I meant quite low price considering…

Why get one 2nd hand for $30 only to have the same damn problem 6 months later?

Makes zero logical sense. You cant get them much cheaper as bubba has pointed out :)

Pay the Nissan price, its actually reasonable in price for something OEM and after 10-15 years does need replacing

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...