Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so the story is, ill go out to a drift praccy, and at the start of a night ill be able to feather 3rd around a certain corner, but by the end of the night on the same corner with the same tyres (or close enough), ill have to kick the f**k out of the clutch just to keep it going.

i also seem to notice a point in each session where i notice a bit of dullness in acceleration from what im used to, this makes me think the loss of power happens fairly quickly, but i wouldnt rule it out happening over a period of time.

things to know are:

RB20DET

RB25 turbo (still running heat shield)

split dump with screamer

FMIC

pod with home made heatshield

040 pump

no apparent overheating (according to standard gauge lol)

remapped ECU

around 12psi from a pneumatic controller

everything else engine wise is standard.

so whats everyones thoughts?

hmm.. so you dont have a complete exhaust system?

I'll tell you my experience because it seems similar.

I have a full exhuast system, went from a gutted cat and a leaky front pipe to nice non leaky system and a metal highflow.

we dynoed the car after this and after a few runs she started to loose power.....

tuner tried a few things(thought was a leak), couldnt find anything.

we let the car cool for a bit, the cat was ticking like crazyy... after it cooled down a little we chucked it back on.

all the power was back and everything was fine....

so I knew the cat was going to be a little more restive, but after each run it was loosing ~2-8rwkw.

perhaps thats why after a few laps of you thrashing the car it feels a little more slugish...?

gl with it.

BTW... i dont like your sig! :(:)

Double check the engine temp and if possible the inlet temp.

Any where from low 70-110degree's my standard temp gauge sits on half. Only once you start to creep past 110degree's it starts moving off half.

Unsure with the std ecu however I presume it would contain ignition and fuel trim as engine temp pushes over a certain point.

Mine starts to pull out any where up to 3-4degree's by the time engine temp is at 110degree's as well as richen it up 'slightly' to prevent ping.

It may be detonating slightly when hot so the ecu drops back to the low oct map?

Unless your running a nismo thermostat, nice alloy radiator and have retained the std viscous fan I would thing it will be pushing close to 110 degree's when your stuck up it for some time.

Edited by TheRogue

Could be heat soak of the intercooler and a general rise in engine bay temps robbing you of power...it might not be enough to cause water or oil temps to overheat but it will definitely cause a drop in power...as you progress thru your session heat builds up obviously...and from session to session i doubt your engine would have cooled down completely...

bring 2 - 2 litre bottles of water with you. after every drift run pour the water over the radiator and intercooler while it is still running for about 2 minutes, then shut down the engine and pour water over it ever 5 minutes untill you run out of water, then re-fill the water for the next run.

If the issue goes away then its definatly heat soak, you can keep doing this as it will help with heat anyway.

bring 2 - 2 litre bottles of water with you. after every drift run pour the water over the radiator and intercooler while it is still running for about 2 minutes, then shut down the engine and pour water over it ever 5 minutes untill you run out of water, then re-fill the water for the next run.

If the issue goes away then its definatly heat soak, you can keep doing this as it will help with heat anyway.

This is heat soak underbonnet temps get f*kn hot as in a skyline.You could try raising the rear of ya bonnet, undo the bolts an put about 5 -8 washers inbetween the bonnet an hinge an also remove the rubber strip that seals the bonnet on the bak firewall its held in place by clips so just use pointy nose pliers to pull them out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...