Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Need to gather some more interest.

If I get one, I promise SAU I would do a proper back to back!!!!!!

I would have been interest a few weeks ago - I have since already received mine :wacko:

Thanks for posting the results Andy.

Kind of makes things a bit clearer, although the results will vary on the type on engine configuration used.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Guys sorry to reply so late, I see there have been a few comments re this plenum.

As far as my boost goes, the issue only occurred after going from the previous turbo's to the 2530 Kai's and installing the step 2 camshafts.

From what my tuner tells me the Kai's seem to hit the surge zone at 1.7 bar as another customer also runs them (also 2.6 but with Type B V-Cam) and he also has this compressor surge.

Neither of us has a problem on our "older" 2530's but the Kai's make pretty amazing HP for 98 octane but its a pity there is something holding them back beyond 1.7 bar. It would seem they could make 500kws @ wheels if we could get a surge free 1.9 bar. With E85 they would prob get close to that HP now. Amazing little turbo's.

Im going to try a balance pipe between each intake pipe to equalise spool and possibly between the 2 exhaust manifolds if I can get around to it.

The plenum gave me a definite gain in the width of my powerband. My tuner said he didnt alter ignition timing and he kept the AF the same as before. Its purely from the Nismo plenum.

The slight drop in torque and slight increase in lag may just be from the atmospheric pressure difference as we tuned on a very hot summers day. I will dyno again in winter and see if this is the case. I'd like to help as much as I can because this is an expensive item and I want to know more about what its done.

Will keep you posted.

Cheers

Andy

Guys sorry to reply so late, I see there have been a few comments re this plenum.

As far as my boost goes, the issue only occurred after going from the previous turbo's to the 2530 Kai's and installing the step 2 camshafts.

From what my tuner tells me the Kai's seem to hit the surge zone at 1.7 bar as another customer also runs them (also 2.6 but with Type B V-Cam) and he also has this compressor surge.

Neither of us has a problem on our "older" 2530's but the Kai's make pretty amazing HP for 98 octane but its a pity there is something holding them back beyond 1.7 bar. It would seem they could make 500kws wheels if we could get a surge free 1.9 bar. With E85 they would prob get close to that HP now. Amazing little turbo's.

Im going to try a balance pipe between each intake pipe to equalise spool and possibly between the 2 exhaust manifolds if I can get around to it.

The plenum gave me a definite gain in the width of my powerband. My tuner said he didnt alter ignition timing and he kept the AF the same as before. Its purely from the Nismo plenum.

The slight drop in torque and slight increase in lag may just be from the atmospheric pressure difference as we tuned on a very hot summers day. I will dyno again in winter and see if this is the case. I'd like to help as much as I can because this is an expensive item and I want to know more about what its done.

Will keep you posted.

Cheers

Andy

Edited by RH9
  • Like 1

Hi Andy - I recently had the Nismo plenum installed in my R32 GTR. It's running -7's with forged internals and Haltech Pro ECU.

I initially had an issue in the lower RPM range (0-3000rpm). It felt restricted like there was insufficient pressure, so I had to keep the RPM's up or it would almost stall from a normal moving off or reversing.

It was a little like a Ram Jet. Seemed I had to be moving to ram the air in/increase pressure.

Glen at ESP managed to tune the issue out for me, and it is more responsive than previously (ever).

Result of installing this plenum: More kw's with less boost and earlier response.

Maybe worth touching base and having a quick chat.

Cheers

Richard

Hi Andy - I recently had the Nismo plenum installed in my R32 GTR. It's running -7's with forged internals and Haltech Pro ECU.

I initially had an issue in the lower RPM range (0-3000rpm). It felt restricted like there was insufficient pressure, so I had to keep the RPM's up or it would almost stall from a normal moving off or reversing.

It was a little like a Ram Jet. Seemed I had to be moving to ram the air in/increase pressure.

Glen at ESP managed to tune the issue out for me, and it is more responsive than previously (ever).

Result of installing this plenum: More kw's with less boost and earlier response.

Maybe worth touching base and having a quick chat.

Cheers

Richard

Hey Richard,

Thats really interesting about how you have achieved a different result. To be honest I think my "loss" of response was due to the ambient temp on the day we dyno'd as the dyno cant compensate for this - its just a fact of life. We all feel more response and torque when the air is nice and cold :)

Ive made another recent change to the car, running the Kakimoto front pipe "premium" which deletes the cat with much longer primaries off each turbo. Will be interesting to see what that does. Have backed it up with a Tomei Ti exhaust so it should sound great.

Maybe some E85 and 500kws from the lil low mounts ;)

All good fun. Keep the results of the plenums coming in. I will post a dyno sheet so you can see the difference I had.

Cheers

Andy

Sorry to dig up an old thread but i have a chance to purchase one of these for a great price any one know how to identify the reals from the fakes and distinguishing features

If that falls through, i can still add you to the group buy if you can get money to me ASAP.

Ah unlucky was worth a try ! Only thing I can hide from the mrs is credit/PayPal account lol

I could put you onto the supplier and you could ask nicely if he accepts credit car- he is an SAU member.

I've just transfered him the money for the Groub Buy Plenums.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...