Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all.

i have a slight misfire at idle and was thinking of changing the plugs. coppers are $3 and platinums are $20. so basically i can change the coppers 6 times for one platinum change...

BUT...

are the coppers inferior in any way?

all i have heard is that they foul easier than the platinums. it would be great to hear accounts from people who have put coppers in an rb20det or rb25det and how long they have lasted and what they thought.

i have platimuns in now and they have been there for at least 15,000 kms maybe more as i have not changed them since buying the car.

also, i will hopefully be tweaking the boost in a few weeks - will this increase the chance of my older current plugs shitting themselves?

from what i have read is the part number (NGK) BCPR6ES or BCP6E ?

and please DO NOT say do a search. there was too much crap info to deciper through to find the answer i needed.

cheers for all your help,

Waz.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25809-copper-plugs/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

and another related question:

i have read some accounts of getting a miss after turning up the boost.

how common is this amoung everyone? or is this a smaller issue? from what i have read mainly R33 owners have been the only ones affected by this. (go the R32's!!)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25809-copper-plugs/#findComment-547582
Share on other sites

hi.

I have an RB20.

I run copper plugs.

Mine have been going for about 15,000kms so far and no problem.

I run 13 psi through an RB25 turbo and there is no miss.

My copper NGK plugs are gapped to 0.8mm

One other thing...

Copper is a better conducter of electricity than IRIDIUM or PLATINUM.

I won't bother going to an expensive plug.

If I have to change 2 sets of copper plugs to 1 set of platinum, then so be it.

still costs me a SH1T load less and better performance..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25809-copper-plugs/#findComment-547776
Share on other sites

The main difference is the platinum plugs (factory standard) are suppose to last 100,000kms, whereas the copper ones are 10,000kms.

(The platinum electrodes dont get eaten away as quick as copper so last longer..)

I replaced my platinum plugs at 75,000kms with copper ones and gapped at 0.9mm due to running higher boost, and i havent had any problems at all. That reminds me its probably time to change them...

If you dont mind changing more often get the copper ones...

i like copper ones because changing more often you can see the state of each cylinder by the plugs condition (too lean, too rich etc)

Oh yeah, what gtst said the copper ones are suppose to have slightly stronger spark.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25809-copper-plugs/#findComment-547793
Share on other sites

I took my stock plugs out at 50,000 to drop a heat range and drop the gap to 0.8. They were in ok condition, but definately showed signs of wear - not just a little, they were well overdue for a change.

I put in copper plugs (NGK BCPR6ES, 0.08mm gap) and they worked fine. They were just replaced when I fitted a larger turbo, and the dyno operator used iridiums. He reasoned that the finer electrode provided a more consistant spark over copper, and he also droped another heat range.

I dont think the extra cost is warranted, compare $3 per plug and $18.50 per plug. The coppers were still in quite good condition after 10,000 (better than the iridiums at 50,000) - but at around the cost of 1 iridium plug for a full set, you can change them every 10,000 and still be better off. It never hurts to change the plugs regularly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25809-copper-plugs/#findComment-548000
Share on other sites

I'm still using NGK BCPR9ES, 1.1mm gap on my car and no problems as yet.

These are the same plugs I used for Melb Auto Salon (495 rkwk) and when we raced at Heathcote last (10.47@137MPH).

I'm going to move down to a 7 heat range plug though as 9 is a bit excessive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25809-copper-plugs/#findComment-548175
Share on other sites

I've used 2 sets of platinum plugs in only 40,000klm, and my car isn't modded and doesn't run particularly rich.

Coppers for me for sure next time....for $20 all up just change em every 5000 with the oil....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25809-copper-plugs/#findComment-548354
Share on other sites

My biggest reasoning for choosing the iridiums over coppers are mostly due to the longer life of the iridiums.

Copper plugs tend to deteriorate noticably over time, even while the plugs are still good. eg, after 10000 or 20000 cold starting is a bit harder and economy is down a bit than when new. And because of the intake being in the way I didn't want the hassle of pulling it all apart everytime I had to change them.

But now I have the front-facing plenum it's not nearly as big an issue to change the plugs every 5000 or 10000, so I think I'll go back to coppers when these iridiums wear out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25809-copper-plugs/#findComment-548983
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Buster

My car came with HKS S40 plugs

Syndeykid does that sounds right as when I looked at ordering more it stated they were for a 4cyl

S40 is equiv to a heat range of a 8 in the NGK line up and a 24 in the Denso line up.

The S denotes the plug style, they also have Si, SiL etc.

Where/who stated they were for a 4 cyl motor?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25809-copper-plugs/#findComment-549003
Share on other sites

Originally posted by JimX

My biggest reasoning for choosing the iridiums over coppers are mostly due to the longer life of the iridiums.

And because of the intake being in the way I didn't want the hassle of pulling it all apart everytime I had to change them.  

I think that is why most people would go iridiums :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25809-copper-plugs/#findComment-549006
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...