Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi

I've got a R32 GTS4(Rb20DET) and I am using copper plugs too,

they are: NGK R BCPR6EY11 gapped to 1.1

My engines done around 160kms and the 1.1 gap is to big, runs a bit rough at idle. I think they should be gapped to 0.8 when your coils are getting a bit tired like mine. Just change them once a year, only $20.

I previously used NGK platinums, NGK with a heat range of 5, I had them in for about 50,000kms. I dont think they could handle the OPtimax fuel, probably been ok if I had one range colder. The insulation on a couple of plugs developed an orange colour and the car would not start properly sometimes.

I dont think the platinums are worth it either. It only takes an hour to change them anyway and like someone said earlier you get to see how the car is running, can look down plug hole and see if pistons are carboning up at all.

I spoke to NGK. They say for Skylines and 200SX's, the better copper plug to use over the BCPR6ES is the BKR6E(Y)s... I have a set of BKR7Es in my car and I can run wider gaps with them compared to my 10k old platinums....

i have noticed the difference between power of the spark of coppers to platinums, my car and a mates car were misfiring a lil on full boost, we both regapped our new plugs (mine copper his platinum) to 0.8 both cars ran great, but after a few months his developed a miss again? coppers are sweet

Originally posted by Steve

and you should never regap platinums from what I have heard, it is such a thing coat of platinum that 9 chances out of 10 you will stuff them.

that might explain why his car started to misfire again. as much as i'd love to pretty much never replace my spark plugs if i used platinums, but it think it just aint worth it, also does anyone know if platinums and iridiums work well in the r33/32s with australias 98 octane limited fuel as opposed to the 102 in japan?

well it has been done

i changed the plugs to BCPR6ES plugs and they run great. it took me about 2 hours to do (i didn't remove the intake pipe over the top of the rocker covers, i just loostened it. it made life a real bitch though for cylinders 3 and 4!)

BUT... it hasn't removed the miss that i have at idle.... grrrrrr...

i'm about to get some stuff to clean the afm and then give the ECU a reset so we'll see...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...