Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I know this might sound a bit stupid, what is faster etc etc etc. .

But I have not yet finished my RB30DE (which have been told will make around 150kw at the rears from many credible sources). .

Now, as it is not finished (should be in about a month), the suspense is killing me as to what will be faster, my RB30DE in my vl or my mates 05 VZ SV6. .

He assures me that his car will wipe the pants off my vl with the RB30DE . .

Discuss. .

Also just a bit of info on the motor. .

Fully rebuilt,

Custom pistons, 20thou oversize

Spool rods with ARP rod bolts

Linished crank

ACL race series bearings

Balanced bottom end, pitsons rods crank flywheel pressure plate and balancer

Head is a R33 head with vct,

Cams 264 degree 10.7mm lift intake, 270degree 10.2mm exhaust

Very mild port and polish to remove casting marks on intake ports. .

All going through a R33 5 speed and 28 spline LSD turbo vl diff wink.gif

Edited by ...Joshwa
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258175-rb30de-vs-vz-alloytec-36/
Share on other sites

Power tp weight people!

Vl should kick it.

Is the vz auto or manual.

We had a vz alloytech, manual with rear mufflers removed, on the dyno. 150.5 kw at the wheels.

They are a heavy car with a tall diff ratio, something like 2.8:1 !!

You'll beat him.

Guys at no point in time has anyone mentioned comp ratio. What are you running in your RB30? This makes huge difference in NA engines...RB engines respond very well to ignition advance and therefore in the NA version, would also respond to high comp ratios...I am not an NA guru but there are many on the forums...Maybe do some searching and find out what will work well with your build...(before you bolt the head on that is....)

Nor have you mentioned area under the torque curve...Looking at peak power figures is close to meaningless when comparing how quick a car will be...

anyway my 2c worth...

VL Turbo Diff is 3.45:1 lsd centre I believe. See if you can get the comp up to 11:1 and a decent tune and then I would have my bets on the VL. More so if theres a decent length of track involved. Hopefully you wont sit there in wheelspin too much.

VL would have to weigh in 1250-1300 kgs ( I am guessing )

VZ would have to pork the scales at over 1600 kgs ...interesting

Keep us posted on any updates

Edited by GTR-32U

i think in this case the weight of the vz would cancel out the advantage in power

the rb30de with high comp would go well from the getgo, and with the advantage of 4.11 compared to the vz terribly tall diff youd prob nose it in front by 100kays/hour

the alloytec comes into its own at high revs and would be catching you very quickly

Righto considering I have a very hi comp RB30DE and a close mate of mine actually owns a Alloytec 3.6, I can tell that yes you will beat a standard one and one with very minimal mods i.e. exhaust and intake.

We went to the strip and I trumped him with my SOHC 30E (SOHC 30E = 15.6; Alloytec 3.6 =15.9) now in saying that the Alloytec 3.6's have a very very very shit clutch in them and will slip if you decide to even think about pushing them and a tall diff.

The alloytec make peak power very late in the rev range so basically they will keep up quite well in the high end of the rev range but down low, it's nothing but 30DE brother!

Awesome, its good to see someone else building a high comp N/A motor for a vl :D

How did you find the spool rods? From the website they seem to be a strong rod, just interested in what you/maybe your engine builder thought of them? I was thinking of buying a set too for my engine but was a little unsure..

Sorry for being a bit off topic, i think the vl will have it due to the power to weight ratio.. mines about 1210kg off the top of my head but it's just a basic SL model.

Keep us posted! :)

Kev

Alrightio. .

Sorry been at college today wasn't able to reply. .

Somebody asked what comp ratio it is running. . It will be around ~11.6:1, running an autotronic ECU. .

I cant comment on the spool rods in terms of use, as my motor isn't together yet, but I have them here sitting next to me and they look like they are great quality, and they also come with ARP rod bolts, which are essential for higher revs. .

And somebody mentioned torque curve.. Well I dont know yet as it isn't together and tuned yet. . Should be in about a month. .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Absolutely could be. I collected data logs from when the O2 sensor was still out and also after I had replaced it so will try to compare them. Pretty confident that the affect is lowered with the new sensor, will check logs at the same RPMs/conditions. 
    • Hey guys Long time lurker, I daily a nm35 stagea 250t rs four and I've had it for almost 2 years (very reliable 👌). Issues or just looking for information ill always find myself here having a read, so thought id join.  3inch stainless intake, pod filter, AM performance turbo dump pipe, 3inch hotdog, 3 and half inch stainless to 3 and half inch AM performance blast pipes. Bc racing coilovers. 18inch rims Hdi intercooler and trans cooler soon.  Here's my car
    • thanks for the advice on the box... i was thinking the 6 speed was better for cruising on the highway but on closer inspection and comparison the Rb 5 speed box was not too different...  So the choice is going to be the RB25 box... if I can save up and find one at the right price  
    • Thanks Matt, yes that's what i am aiming for. Just going to apply the right voltage and grounds to the dash connector. Hence my search for these pins... any chance you know if these pins are in the same spot as the ones on the S15 Dash connector? as mentioned above on page 8?
    • Yes, unfortunately that's the one. Signal was noisy to begin with; after driving once and looking back at the logs I saw pressure constantly swinging between 0-200psi, or staying at 0 randomly for a few seconds. There's a lot of good sensors that share the same look and feel, so don't presume they're all bad. I bought mine for 20$ off Amazon and I should have read the reviews prior, as it's clear they're junk.  I purchased a lowdollerr motorsports sensor. 
×
×
  • Create New...