Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I asked this question before.

why isnt my exhaust loud like other cars even though it looks big like some of them. even bigger than most that are louder than mine.

Mostly everyone said its coz my r33 is a N/A.

But now for the past few months.

I have met 3 people with Civic, Lancer and Prelude.

And all of their exhausts were louder than mine. I asked them if it was turbo and it was not. non of them were.

Now since i dont know much bout engines i am confuzed.

Do u guyz still think its coz mines a N/A or is it coz my exhaust is the silent type?

Thanx Guyz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258219-exhaust-loudness/
Share on other sites

Mostly everyone said its coz my r33 is a N/A.

"Everyone" must be ignorant. NA cars are louder than turbo cars, since the turbo acts as another exhaust restriction (i.e. muffler).

why isnt my exhaust loud like other cars even though it looks big like some of them. even bigger than most that are louder than mine.

Didn't your girlfriend every tell you that size doesn't matter? As gimp said, if yours is that quiet it probably has proper baffled mufflers instead of just a straight-through one.

Like scathing said, N/A is actually generally louder with the same exhaust, as the turbo muffles the sound as it comes out of the headers.

My N/A skyline was freaking loud when I got it... had a 3" straight-through exhaust, one small resonator and twin cannons on the back. Got done for EPA, got a decent 2.5" system made up with a decent resonator and a proper muffler at the back, brought it down to a nice legal volume.

On an N/A, you actually need a little bit of backpressure... 3" was too big... it moved the power (lol if you can call it that on an N/A) too high up the rev range to be useable... with the 2.5" setup the car became much more driveable (i.e. torque down low where you needed it, rather than having to slip the clutch all the time to take off).

So yeah, a loud exhaust (esp. on an N/A) isn't always a good thing!

I prefer you to stick to a 2.5" the most for your N/A.

Atleast thats helping you with your performance. Anything bigger is just all show no go.

A loud exhaust on a Civic is just a fart can, which is shit.

I asked this question before.

And all of their exhausts were louder than mine. I asked them if it was turbo and it was not. non of them were.

to be honest... Turbo cars are actually Quieter than N/A cars...

The turbo Muzzles the sound slightly and causes a more bubbly/gugrling sounding tone...

and less likely to Destort (the buzzing/cracking sound heard on Civics & lancers)

It is the design of your muffler... like somone said, take a pic of the exhaust and Resonator

(resonator is the muffler looking thing before the actual muffler at the end, this can actually play a role in muffling sound)

you havent mentioned too much about your exhaust, but im imagining it has a big tip and a large muffler

JAZMA?

the tip plays little role in sound amplifing ..FYI

i would safely suggest to replace the muffler and the resonator...

keep the stock CAT...

and during this process you may wana look at replacing the pipework if its not too old.

(skylines and supras around your era can have quite rusty mufflers and pipe)

cheers

let us know how you go

I've got a better idea, how about you keep the quiet exhaust. Anyone will tell you that as long as your exhaust isn't restrictive the quieter the better. There's nothing worse than an idiot with a fart cannon who thinks he's special taking off at the lights doing 0-60km/h in 10 seconds.

It's much better to have a quiet exhaust, attract less attention from the cops and others will just laugh at the gay sound coming out when you're doing 40km/h.

I had people come up to me at the drags and ask how I got my car so quiet, it's better than all sound and nothing else.

I've got a better idea, how about you keep the quiet exhaust. Anyone will tell you that as long as your exhaust isn't restrictive the quieter the better. There's nothing worse than an idiot with a fart cannon who thinks he's special taking off at the lights doing 0-60km/h in 10 seconds.

It's much better to have a quiet exhaust, attract less attention from the cops and others will just laugh at the gay sound coming out when you're doing 40km/h.

I had people come up to me at the drags and ask how I got my car so quiet, it's better than all sound and nothing else.

well FYI.....from my experience...the 2 Inline 6Cyl motors...the RB25DE and 2JZ-GE........actually dont sound bad at all for a natrually aspirated car.

they actually dont have that crackle fart sound like Lancers, Civics or preludes.

and 2JZ-GE's actually do sound very simillar to the TT SUPRAs 2JZ-GTE.......

Wow, this thread actually turned out civilised! I read the first post and thought "let the flaming begin", but you guys are all being mature about it. Kudos!

But +1 for quiet exhaust.

lol

well true.....

but thats because the people that tend to make spiteful posts havent replied to it yet.....

lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am getting the same issue. Did you resolve it? I just got it after installing my new super coppermix and literally the same issue, new fork, new 18mm carrier, release bearing that came with the kit and replicated the exact same sound. 
    • If you like - I have the STL files so I can email em. There's a couple of gotchas (i.e the holes are not threaded so you might need/will need) to utilize some M3 melt-in threads for some of the points. However if you want to be super accurate, and are willing to remove your calipers and your SHOCKS it's a really good tool. You also might need to scale the part that measures the tyre width a bit wider. It defaults to a 7.5in tyre and I mean who is running that. Luckily with the magic of CAD this is very easy to rescale.
    • jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
×
×
  • Create New...