Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lads,

Due to some advice received on this forum i had a split front/dump pipe installed (already had nismo catback 3" high flow cat etc) and upgraded the panel filter to a K&N High Flow in the standard box. She now has a good quality turbo back exhaust, 34 SMIC.

Seems you guys were correct im really surprised with the response the car has with such a relatively basic mod. Car seems really alive and responsive and has a better top end. I was more than impressed to be honest and now im pumped for more...

What are my options that will give a good result without spending nearly 2k on an APEXI POWER FC. Are there any? I want to run 10spi safely (currently on factory boost etc). My AFR when initally dynoed ran down toward 10:1. Apparently this is pretty rich therefore safe? i want to keep it this way as reliability is a high priority (its a daily driver). I have apprehension in simply purchasing perhaps a dual stage boost controller and winding it up a bit. Ive been reading the forum as much as i can, and i hear this may cause flat spots due to fueling issues and spiking etc, and is a dodgy way of doing things??

I guess if ultimately the PowerFC is the only way to go ill do it (but spending the cash is hard to hide from the missus.... shes not a fan). Is there anything middle ground. Im not after 300 KW ATW. 200 will do...:(.

Any advise is appreciated, so far its been dead on the money and much appreciated.

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258980-r33-gts25t-s2/
Share on other sites

Hey dude. Glad your a happy camper!

Did you notice any boost spiking with the split pipe?

The best thing you could probly to without going FULL ECU (Power FC etc) Would be an SAFC2 piggyback. I have just put one in my R33 and am awaiting a tune. Will tidy up the AFRs and give you a little more midrange and top end.

If you want to run a safe 10Psi all day every day, go out and grab yourself an R32 GTSt Actuator. they have a 10Psi spring in them. So you can do away with the stock R33 boost solenoid alltogether. I have done it, and so have alot op people. Works very well!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258980-r33-gts25t-s2/#findComment-4450687
Share on other sites

Hey mate

if your only after 200 or so KW then perhaps look into just a manual boost T and an S - AFC

get the S-AFC (super air flow converter) tuned to sort out the A/F ratios and 10 - 11psi and you should be bang on you targeted power.

Should be able to do it all for less than the cost of a PFC

Just my 2c..

Corey,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258980-r33-gts25t-s2/#findComment-4450688
Share on other sites

Thanks mate!

Ive noticed no spiking. I was up early this morning, it was pretty cold and i noticed no spiking. Although ive only got the standard boost guage... i

Are these actuators hard to get?

Hey dude. Glad your a happy camper!

Did you notice any boost spiking with the split pipe?

The best thing you could probly to without going FULL ECU (Power FC etc) Would be an SAFC2 piggyback. I have just put one in my R33 and am awaiting a tune. Will tidy up the AFRs and give you a little more midrange and top end.

If you want to run a safe 10Psi all day every day, go out and grab yourself an R32 GTSt Actuator. they have a 10Psi spring in them. So you can do away with the stock R33 boost solenoid alltogether. I have done it, and so have alot op people. Works very well!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258980-r33-gts25t-s2/#findComment-4450694
Share on other sites

I'm a tuner and I HATE SAFCs. THey are shit. Don't be so cheap and get a powerfc, they are much better and you will get a much more desired result.

In the end, you're still paying for a tune. Whether it be a shitty SAFC or a powerfc.

Spend that little bit more and do it properly. You'll be able to tune the ignition maps (can't do that in a SAFC) and give it more grunt down low without causing it to ping in the top end.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258980-r33-gts25t-s2/#findComment-4450697
Share on other sites

Lads,

Due to some advice received on this forum i had a split front/dump pipe installed (already had nismo catback 3" high flow cat etc) and upgraded the panel filter to a K&N High Flow in the standard box. She now has a good quality turbo back exhaust, 34 SMIC.

Hey matt, reading your post makes me glad i made a date with the mechanic to fit front and dump pipe. Hopefully im as happy as u r. Btw same car. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258980-r33-gts25t-s2/#findComment-4450714
Share on other sites

I'm a tuner and I HATE SAFCs. THey are shit. Don't be so cheap and get a powerfc, they are much better and you will get a much more desired result.

In the end, you're still paying for a tune. Whether it be a shitty SAFC or a powerfc.

Spend that little bit more and do it properly. You'll be able to tune the ignition maps (can't do that in a SAFC) and give it more grunt down low without causing it to ping in the top end.

Not everyone has $1000's to spend on an ECU plus another $1000 for a tune tho. The SAFC will work fine for his needs.

The actuators arent too hard ti find. You just need to keep an eye open! Or try a local Nissan wrecker :(

Edited by gotRICE?
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258980-r33-gts25t-s2/#findComment-4450736
Share on other sites

I'm a tuner and I HATE SAFCs. THey are shit. Don't be so cheap and get a powerfc, they are much better and you will get a much more desired result.

In the end, you're still paying for a tune. Whether it be a shitty SAFC or a powerfc.

Spend that little bit more and do it properly. You'll be able to tune the ignition maps (can't do that in a SAFC) and give it more grunt down low without causing it to ping in the top end.

What he said. But also what gotrice said too. Not everyone has the money.

If it was me, I would skim a little off the wages every week so the missus wouldn't know, be patient while the cash built up and then purchase the unit.

Then when the bug has bitten you (and it will - it happens to all of us) you will have the PowerFC to do anything you want.

Take everyone's advice and make up your own mind, after all, it's your money.

Later man.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258980-r33-gts25t-s2/#findComment-4450807
Share on other sites

I lean a bit more towards The Mafia's view on going full ECU instead of S-AFC. I guess the good thing about S-AFCs are you tend to be able to buy them used for a reasonable price and sell them for a similar price when you (almost inevitably) decide that it wasn't that great and you would have been better off just buying a full ECU.

I personally can't help but notice that the people who are saying "Get a full ECU" are people who have been down the S-AFC path, and the people who are for the S-AFC are ones who haven't had one yet or are in the early days. Hardly anyone who has gone S-AFC seem to stay with them for any real length of time. The gains are often OK but I'm not convinced they are enough to pay for themselves.

If you don't have the money to go full ECU, then you shouldn't be wasting it on an S-AFC imo.

Edited by Lithium
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258980-r33-gts25t-s2/#findComment-4450879
Share on other sites

hey mate, got the same car and same name....and the same mods.....and chasing about the same figure aswell.....bloody coincidental. should catch up sometime....

anyway, i offered advice about the JJR split front and dump pipe, and gald that u have found this to be beneficial.

as for a ecu setup......dont go and spend the money twice, jus save some more, enjoy ur car in its current power and let the bank balance pick up again b4 goin out and buyin a PFC.....i agree totally with what lithium has said....

also one other thing u could and maybe should look at would be a z32 afm......

Cheers

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258980-r33-gts25t-s2/#findComment-4450963
Share on other sites

S-AFC's have their place in terms of a basically modded car, with mild aims - only with a stock turbo - and a budget that might not extend too far.

Once you upgrade turbo you really need to do it justice and upgrade, before that its a so/so thing in my eyes

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258980-r33-gts25t-s2/#findComment-4451028
Share on other sites

i would lean towards buying a PFC.

i know how u feel that u might have the money for a SAFC now and want a lil more power so u just wanna buy it, but it should be worth the wait. personally dont have a PFC but am trying to save for one. would prefer buying something that does everything instead of buying something that does a few things for now.

congrats that ur happy with the car and keep pouring money into it :( lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258980-r33-gts25t-s2/#findComment-4451041
Share on other sites

you could also get a remap from toshi, i got mine from him and very happy, he is in the business trader section

or another option is the Vipec/Link ecu, i think the Links are cheaper but its the same ecu,

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258980-r33-gts25t-s2/#findComment-4451057
Share on other sites

These SAFC's are also a shithouse to install and remove.

If you pay someone to do it, there is more money wasted that could have went to a powerfc.

Think about it... A few hundred more, and you have a powerfc and a hand controller.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258980-r33-gts25t-s2/#findComment-4451247
Share on other sites

These SAFC's are also a shithouse to install and remove.

If you pay someone to do it, there is more money wasted that could have went to a powerfc.

Think about it... A few hundred more, and you have a powerfc and a hand controller.

What are you kidding? An SAFC2 goes for $300 Max. Install is a piece of piss, and even if you do have to pay for an install, it only cost $150ish.

So $450 all up. And your still short $1000+ for a Power FC and hand controller. Not to mention they seem to cost over $1000 for a full tune.

If your lucky they do go for cheaper but they dont seem to come up that often.

Edited by gotRICE?
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258980-r33-gts25t-s2/#findComment-4451340
Share on other sites

The money you spend on a SAFC you could get a toshi/doctor drift remap of your std ecu and do so much more with it, its not a pfc, but its way better than a SAFC.

So bang for bucks as a first step is rechip imo.

read this and other threads like it:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ec...l&hl=doctor

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258980-r33-gts25t-s2/#findComment-4451360
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...