Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm just putting one on my 3l at the moment, no reason it won't work fine.

Lots of people on here will tell you to buy brand name japanese only - because its not their money being spent. Or they have to much of the stuff, or something. Its a simple oil cooled, bush bearing turbo, exactly what nissan was putting on these cars when they built them 15 years ago. The new garret or whoever turbos do spool up quicker and the water cooling is better but they are also 2x-4x the price.

Only think to be careful of with the 480 is that the internal wastegate is too small. EIther run it with an external wastegate, or open up the internal gate and put a new wastegate flap on it. If not you will get boost creep up high, especially if you are trying to run lower boost like 15psi.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259034-kkr480-turbo/#findComment-4451288
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that's a fair assumption. I'm presuming they call them solid lifters as they have no moving parts like hydro lifters. 
    • I believe you're confusing WMI with water injection. Looking at that graph, the 93aki+WMI car is making more power than C16 race gas. Boost juice, which is what I also run, is Snow Performances 50/50 premix. 
    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
×
×
  • Create New...