Gtr Rb30 Sump Adaptor Plates

[R.I.P.S NZ]

Mmmmmm, interesting pictures.

I do see a few potential problems with some of them, but don't think its fair to comment on specifics with someone else's design.

What I can say is, the integral internal pickups are no problem to do on the 4wd adapter plates (even where the plate is MUCH thinner than 15mm, in fact the thicker the plate is the worse the design gets IMO), we've done them from day 1 (about 7 years ago) and havn't had any issues or had to re-address the original design.

I'm also now very re-assured our billet mains kits correctly covers all the bases for a system that can be used on any random RB30 block.

Rob

[shanef]

Mmmmmm, interesting pictures.

I do see a few potential problems with some of them, but don't think its fair to comment on specifics with someone else's design.

What I can say is, the integral internal pickups are no problem to do on the 4wd adapter plates (even where the plate is MUCH thinner than 15mm, in fact the thicker the plate is the worse the design gets IMO), we've done them from day 1 (about 7 years ago) and havn't had any issues or had to re-address the original design.

I'm also now very re-assured our billet mains kits correctly covers all the bases for a system that can be used on any random RB30 block.

Rob

By all means fire away rob! Id rather get every bit of criticism now and make changes to it than to find out the problems down the track.

[R.I.P.S NZ]

By all means fire away rob! Id rather get every bit of criticism now and make changes to it than to find out the problems down the track.

Mmmm, not sure I want to get into this....but we'll see how it goes, lol......What is the thickness of the cradle/adapter where it goes around the perimeter of the block (ie. what thickness is there between the block and sump)?

[Beer Baron]

I don't usually sell the adpater plate seperatly as I do the pickup differently to the adapter shown above and as such each one is usually done along with one of our high capcity sumps so it all works together.

Our big sumps are also very involved and quite a few have been sold into Aussie recently for a variety of applications.

Shipping is cheap, around nzd200 for sump and adapter kit and if I was to sell and adapter seperate it would only be about nzd75 to send to Aussie.

The billet mains kit is a whole different kettle of fish, there are 75 fastners in the full kit (studs, cap screws etc), cnc billet mains caps and a substantial cnc block brace.

They require the block mains threads to be enlarged to 11mm and once all assembled the block needs to be line bored.

The full kit is nzd4000+ shipping or it adds nzd5000 to the price of a forged bottom end if we the whole job here.

Rob

Well done Rob, you're selling a higher quality and proven part for less than the Australian parts.

Ill be in touch soon to take one

Paul - sometimes people need to stack pallets quickly...

eh? not sure how you get that? he didn't quote a price on 4wd sump adapters, just that shipping is $200NZD. and the kits he did quote are 4,000NZ or 5,000NZ. I'm not a currencey expert but I'm pretty sure that's more than the two aussie ones at $650 and $700 + pick-ups. it may be higher quality but at over $3,000 AUD it's more than tripple the price of the most proven/popular one here.

btw, i'm not knocking the rips gear. it all looks very nice. and I especially like the really neat fuel systems they make with surge tanks etc. they look amazing. i haven't seen their adapters in the flesh but I'm sure they are good. I haven't seen one of shanes in the flesh either but they look good too and he's certainly put time in. I have seen the proengines ones and they are very good and from speaking to someone who's installed one it works exactly as it's supposed to and is good value too.

[N1GTR]

Wrong kit BB.

Anyway, thats enough of the price talk

[Swiper the Fox]

Mmmm, not sure I want to get into this....but we'll see how it goes, lol......What is the thickness of the cradle/adapter where it goes around the perimeter of the block (ie. what thickness is there between the block and sump)?

Robbie i see you are smart enough to not post pics on here...wise move. Protecting your engineering by not disclosing exactly how you do it and seeing potential faults and pointing them in the right direction but not telling them exactly whats going on is a smart move. Investing time and effort developing your product to a world leading standard takes a whole wad of cash...handing that R&D over is not going to happen easily.

Well Done.

[R.I.P.S NZ]

eh? not sure how you get that? he didn't quote a price on 4wd sump adapters, just that shipping is $200NZD. and the kits he did quote are 4,000NZ or 5,000NZ. I'm not a currencey expert but I'm pretty sure that's more than the two aussie ones at $650 and $700 + pick-ups. it may be higher quality but at over $3,000 AUD it's more than tripple the price of the most proven/popular one here.

btw, i'm not knocking the rips gear. it all looks very nice. and I especially like the really neat fuel systems they make with surge tanks etc. they look amazing. i haven't seen their adapters in the flesh but I'm sure they are good. I haven't seen one of shanes in the flesh either but they look good too and he's certainly put time in. I have seen the proengines ones and they are very good and from speaking to someone who's installed one it works exactly as it's supposed to and is good value too.

Thanks for the kind words on the fuel systems etc but you have your wires seriously crossed with regards to the adapter plates and billet mains kit, might pay to go back a few posts and have another read.

Rob

[shanef]

Mmmm, not sure I want to get into this....but we'll see how it goes, lol......What is the thickness of the cradle/adapter where it goes around the perimeter of the block (ie. what thickness is there between the block and sump)?

10mm, same thickness as the normal adapter plates

Robbie i see you are smart enough to not post pics on here...wise move. Protecting your engineering by not disclosing exactly how you do it and seeing potential faults and pointing them in the right direction but not telling them exactly whats going on is a smart move. Investing time and effort developing your product to a world leading standard takes a whole wad of cash...handing that R&D over is not going to happen easily.

Well Done.

For someone to replicate something like these girdles from scratch they are going to have to spend the same sort of coin, u cant just look at a few pics, knock one up and expect it to fit.

If you were to hand out the models then thatd be a different story

[R.I.P.S NZ]

10mm, same thickness as the normal adapter plates

How do you bolt up the 4 rear lower sump bolts to the bellhousing when using a 10mm thick plate?

Rob

[shanef]

How do you bolt up the 4 rear lower sump bolts to the bellhousing when using a 10mm thick plate?

Rob

The ones on the wings? Slot the wings, or if ur pedantic fill the old ones and re-cut them.

[R.I.P.S NZ]

The ones on the wings? Slot the wings

Slot the wings with a 10mm plate? You sure? If so what fastners do you use and can you get all 4 in?

Rob

[shanef]

Damn you, now im going to have to go up the back and fit a box to the dummy engine now to check. i'll be back...

[shanef]

Easily done. Just weld up the original holes, bolt on the backing plate and drill the new holes. I'd probably use some cap head bolts aswell

[shanef]

Actually, another way would be to get some 12mm solid tube and bash it into the existing holes instead of welding

[R.I.P.S NZ]

I presume from your reply you havn't actually had a complete setup together yet.

Welding the holes and re-drilling or "bashing" in some alloy plugs and re-drilling I believe will still not sort out the problem.

There are many many more hurdles you'll come across along the way, it took me quite some time to iron them out one by one so everything is now perfect and every niggly thing has been addressed.

Best of luck,

Rob

[shanef]

Yep i've never put one in a car so never had to worry about it. I cant see it being a huge problem though, worst case it may need a few 'hollows' filled with weld on the inside of the wings for the head of the bolt to seat against. I'll find out soon though

[T04GTR]

very interesting! now, what about the windage tray (trays)

ps. id hate to see what terry bosnjak would charge to "knock" something like theese up! (down the road from my work) all looks really good.

i can see how it would give you all the peace of mind in the world regarding main cap rigidity!

[[200]]

This is such a good thread.

It's really good to see the people bouncing ideas off one another with the thread turning to shit with arguments between vendors.

Awesome work.

[fletch rb30]

I used an 8mm plate, similar to the pro engines kit.

Took me a few hours hours to draw with a sump, upside down block, large ruler and autocad.

I did not notch the block for the whole cap screw head, just for the shank of the bolt, and made a strip of steel to run beside the block and the heads of the bolts sit half on the block skirt and half on the steel spacer.

With only 8mm plate, it was just a few mins with a die grinder to slot the holes in the bellhousing to fit the box.

If you weld a tight bend onto the oil pickup flange and give the outside of the bend a tap with a hammer there is about 1-2mm clearance from the axle tube.

Also made one for a mate running over 500rwkws and hes had no troubles so im pretty happy

[T04GTR]

very cool! excuse my noob question, whats an autocad?