Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would like to put on a Nismo Z-tune style GT-R bonnet on a GT-T.

Already getting the East Bear front, but don't like the look of their bonnet.

What would I need to do this?

Hinges, locking mechanism, front wings?

i hate people claiming they got a R34 GTR in their details.. and yet really they don't even have a GTT :(

And Cara.. DMD do a R34 GTT front fender with wider guards.. as they make these themselves i believe i'm sure you could ask without the vents..

www.dmdtheimage.com

My DMD Guards

  • 2 weeks later...
i hate people claiming they got a R34 GTR in their details.. and yet really they don't even have a GTT :blink:

And Cara.. DMD do a R34 GTT front fender with wider guards.. as they make these themselves i believe i'm sure you could ask without the vents..

www.dmdtheimage.com

My DMD Guards

Yes they did make "that" guard themselves after they took a mould of my genuine Blitz/URAS guard that I ordered from Japan through them. That guard of yours is just a copy of the Blitz/URAS guard plus the vents.

I was told today that Blits over in QLD are also looking into making wide body fenders for GTT's.

While I don't believe in sticking GTR badges on GTT's but my car came with GTSR badges and I think they're cool :sick:

Edited by [ANGRY13]
well my thanks to you then michael.. out of interest.. have you got info on the cost? PM if you want.. cheers

I really don't have any ideas on cost Graig, your best bet would be head over there or give them a call because all the bodykit/panel/eyelids/hoods over at DMD/Monkey seems to be getting cheaper every month. :P

I was told today that Blits over in QLD are also looking into making wide body fenders for GTT's.

While I don't believe in sticking GTR badges on GTT's but my car came with GTSR badges and I think they're cool

I think Blits already have a widebody fender for the GT-T, the reason I said this is because I saw a purple GT-T going around in brisbane that has a semi-wide bodykit fitted to his car and when I ask him where did he get the kit from he said he got it from Blits Gold Coast.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Okay I have been watching this post as I am going to be doing the same conversion, but with all metal and aluminum fenders. The front is not too bad, need the GTR front fenders, GTR bonnet or if you wann be cheap and try to mod the GT-T bonne tto look like a GTR, GTR front bumper, GTR bonnet hinges and GTR bonnet locking mechanism along with GTR front bumper support bar. That's it for the front, the problem with mounting the front fenders is that when you mount them unlike the GT-T is that the bottom of the fender does not sit flush with the door as the GTR has the long side skirt unlike the GT-T which has the stock quarter piece to the back of the door, so definitely you need the GTR sideskirts. Next thing is that when you use the GTR side skirts the rear of the skirt is tapered out a little to compensate for the wider rear quarter panels so those are needed as well. Once you get the rear quarter panels you will need the rear bumper as the rear bumper is a little wider than the GT-T rear bumper to compensate for the wider rear fenders. Lastly you will need the GTR tailight covers as the cover are also a little wide to fit flush with the wider fenders, or you can simply use some glass to make up the difference with the wider fenders.

So far my collection is just a stock Vspec rear bumper but by month end I should have a stock GTR plastic bumper with all the support bars and then I will be gettign the sideskirts and front fenders, only leaving the rear fenders.

Okay I have been watching this post as I am going to be doing the same conversion, but with all metal and aluminum fenders. The front is not too bad, need the GTR front fenders, GTR bonnet or if you wann be cheap and try to mod the GT-T bonne tto look like a GTR, GTR front bumper, GTR bonnet hinges and GTR bonnet locking mechanism along with GTR front bumper support bar. That's it for the front, the problem with mounting the front fenders is that when you mount them unlike the GT-T is that the bottom of the fender does not sit flush with the door as the GTR has the long side skirt unlike the GT-T which has the stock quarter piece to the back of the door, so definitely you need the GTR sideskirts. Next thing is that when you use the GTR side skirts the rear of the skirt is tapered out a little to compensate for the wider rear quarter panels so those are needed as well. Once you get the rear quarter panels you will need the rear bumper as the rear bumper is a little wider than the GT-T rear bumper to compensate for the wider rear fenders. Lastly you will need the GTR tailight covers as the cover are also a little wide to fit flush with the wider fenders, or you can simply use some glass to make up the difference with the wider fenders.

So far my collection is just a stock Vspec rear bumper but by month end I should have a stock GTR plastic bumper with all the support bars and then I will be gettign the sideskirts and front fenders, only leaving the rear fenders.

Do you know how much of a gap there is between the tail light cover and rear fenders? Any idea where to source the bonnet hinges etc for the front conversion? How about nissan and their prices? so far all the wide femders ive seen are only 25mm wide. Kind of wonder if its worth while just for that much?

Sweet it's another 34 GTR conversion topic! Quick get out as many posts as possible before more people get on and preach about "incorrectly" badged cars!

What makes the gtr that much more of a looker to warrant the conversion? Is it the wider body? Nope! Wide bodies are good but why not go for something more along the lines of JGTC fenders since you're forking out for it anyway? They're good but they're not the reason to change so many other pieces of your car to complete the puzzle.

Is it the sexy red R on the badge? Nope! Well... maybe but anyone who cares will circumcise your first born son in his sleep and nail your cat to a cross if they catch your GTT with a GTR badge on it. And debadged cars are better anyway (so I'm told) so that can't be it either...

The wing! Actually, that's not it either since you're not in a real GTR so you won't be physically able to go fast enough to generate down force. I'm told wings are gay to. So don't worry someone who shares this view will post up soon enough. As the laws of physics state; 'once a cosmetic related thread containing a strongly biased opinion is in motion, the probability of someone with a similar opinion replying to the post is directly proportional to the probability of them reading it.'

Seriously? I reckon it's where the front bar meets the bonnet. Think about it for a moment.

post-53546-1244363602_thumb.jpg

Now compare to the GTR,

post-53546-1244363703_thumb.jpg

That's it! I believe that little piece of fiberglass is what sets the entire car off. It's why the new lancer or GTR looks hot from the front.

post-53546-1244364206_thumb.jpg post-53546-1244364556_thumb.jpg

See, both so hot you cold cook a steak with a wallet sized picture of either of them!

I know most of this post is a blatant waste of time and all the pictures are a joke but I'm throwing it out there that the person that does this;

post-53546-1244364851_thumb.jpg

Except does a serious job of it that doesn't look like my horrible paint jpeg, will make a motsa out of tight arses that want the GTR look without the GTR cost. Someone please tell me if I'm wrong... I'm sure you will .

I'm no fisherman but I reckon I'll get a bite out of this post!

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...