Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the coin needed to get the RB20 head to slow that of a RB25 (is you stroke to 2.4) doesn't justify the cost IMO.

But ye, 26/20... lol

Do any of the mods we do justify the cost?

Not really.

If you wanna build a tough 20, then you're going to build one. And you wouldn't bother putting a 26 head on top...way too much work reducing the combustion chambers. The only downside to a 20 in the cylinder head department is the valve sizes. Fix that and put decent cams in and away you go. 20's are stronger, rev higher more safely etc, etc.

It's like the CA18, everyone says they are a piece of shit 'go for the SR', but they are wrong. A fresh CA will outdo a fresh SR with similar dollars spent

Here was me initially thinking this was a topical pisstake thread relating to the RB26 vs 30 one hahaha.

Seeing as there was a question asked about trying to make an RB20 breathe I may as well try an answer - doesn't one of the R34 offerings have a Neo RB20 head? Are they any better than the R32 one? Maybe that could be something worth looking at?

Heres a picture of the intake port job we did on my rb20head to flow for the rb24 build

post-23119-1236223233_thumb.jpg

I can't get one of the exhaust because the manifold is urrently attached too it.

so why did you open up the port entry to slow down the air? did you touch anywhere near the valve seat?

so why did you open up the port entry to slow down the air? did you touch anywhere near the valve seat?

Of course... rite down to the valve seat. intake is port matched also.. no problems with air speed at 30psi :banana:

Toque x Revs = horsepower.

So, RB20 doesn't have mcuh torque, so rev the poor little thing as hard as you dare!

In order to rev really stinking hard, it will really want to breathe..

This thread doesn't seem that silly when you boil it down. Sure, there may be a better way of getting the airflow your after, but I cant see the issue with starting with a head that already is known for lots of air and has a massive amount of parts you can buy off the shelf to help you.

Issues doing any kind of build will always bugg you,

but i bet everybodies jaw would hit the floor if they got past by an RB20 revvvvving @11 000rpm.. or higher! The sound would be like an R1 on roids.

Say good bye to any spare time and all your cash! but you sure have proved one thing, nobody is going to beat you to it!

I say Go for it..

How are you going to address the fact that the bore sizes are seriously huge mismatches? 78mm bore into a chamber designed for something with a 86mm bore? Its not going to be nice in there at all.

How are you going to address the fact that the bore sizes are seriously huge mismatches? 78mm bore into a chamber designed for something with a 86mm bore? Its not going to be nice in there at all.

+20

It's not a stupid idea but it's stupid if you try it. People are always trying to re-invent the wheel. You don't need a 26 head on a 20 block to make power. Just because it's a 26 head doesn't mean you are automatically going to be able to rev it to 11k and make 1000hp. Thats a crock of shit. And as far as revving an engine to 11k, It's not just the cylinder head that limits rpm. Crankshaft, rod length, stroke etc all play a role. With a cast crank you are not going to safely rev a 20 past 9500rpm.

It's like putting a 20 head onto a 30 block. Stupid. Increasing compression ratio in a forced inducted engine is as simple as increasing boost. Plus chamber sizes are far too different to make it work. Going that way is more practical than 26 head on 20 block though. The valves will hit the edges of the block on the way down and you won't get the head gasket to seal.

But if you have unlimited funds and want to make something that no one else has, then go for it. You will have an engine that people will say 'wow, that's impressive' but then will wonder why their mum's corolla can nearly keep up with it.

TUF120

http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....=317565&hl=

AFAIK was running a 26 head on his 20...

He is on this site but cant remember his user id?

edit here he is! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/RB120WHY-m24062.html

Edited by dano4127

I have a 26 bottom end and head. What would b easiest is that i throw the RB20 crank in the 26 block with 26 head. Running the 86mm bore will give me a bit more diplacement but also increased weight of the pistons. But the shorter throw crank would make the thing a crazy rev happy engine. Dont understand why you would do it though, other then for shits and giggles or a class of motorsport that dictates your cc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...