Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hay just a quick one for you all....

i had this with my r32 as well (4wd). everytime i change the oil filter, it doesn't matter what i put under there or what i lose heaps of oil from it and it leaks all over the stuff below it and its really starting to shit me...

what do you guys do to not lose sooo much oil?

Thanks

curt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259774-oil-change-question/
Share on other sites

even with a relocator kit - it can still be messy (I have a relocator in mine)...makes it eaiser to get the filter on and off...I always have a rag on standby for spillage as there is still some oil in the relocator

Here are a couple of photos of my oil cooler and relocation kit. Oil cooler on the driver’s side. Auto cooler on the passenger side

post-25786-1236238450_thumb.jpg

I found a couple of welded nuts in the chassis rail under the driver’s feet (aprox) and made up a bracket to suit for the filter

post-25786-1236238240_thumb.jpg

sounds to me like you've still got a rubber seal from an old filter on the block - the rubber o-rings can be left behind when you remove a filter so make sure that you take it off if it didn't come off with the filter. if you've still got an old o-ring on (without knowing) and have put a new filter on with its own o-ring then this will more than likely cause a leak. i'd check this before wasting money on a relocator at this point - it's not like the filter on them is exactly hard to get to..

oops kinda missread the original post :P

there will always be a little oil left in the filter even if you've drained the sump but not enough to worry about?

to answer the q about oil coolers:

they're fine for everyday use but be careful you don't run your oil too cool. ie if it's just a daily and you live in a colder climate i'd advise against it as the oil needs to heat up to thin out and work properly. a few of the guys i know that run oil coolers on daily drivers put bags over them in the colder months of the year to prevent air flow through it and then take them off when it heats up :laugh:

I did this yesterday arvo.

Have a greddy oil relocator kit so that it sits up above the fuel filter

Have a fujimoto oil drain release valve, so that its just a flick to release oil then flick back to shut off

Released the oil into old container - only 3750ml WTF?!

changed oil filter, changed spark plugs, then ran on only 5cyl so redid sparkies

filled with 5L Motol 3100V, then reset ecu

test drove revealed issue, redid as above all is great and ready for dyno run next week !

not using an oil cooler myself, just an Automatic gearbox-oil cooler

Yup i agree with what the guys said above, Drain the sump first & give it a fair bit of time before taking the filter off. I only witnessed a few drops from taking off the filter, from all the times i've done it.

Just have a rag handy :P

Undo filter a little, enough so it's not tight, get a plastic bag, cover entire filter with bag, undo the rest of the filter through the bag. Hopefully most of the oil left over in filter ends up in bag. Oh, and also a rag under the filter for good measure.

leave the filler cap or a breather hose off while draining oil, walk away for atleast ten mins before considering doing the filter(this is when i do my plugs) then change filter, fit sump plug and new washer(AW12), fill with oil

Undo filter a little, enough so it's not tight, get a plastic bag, cover entire filter with bag, undo the rest of the filter through the bag. Hopefully most of the oil left over in filter ends up in bag. Oh, and also a rag under the filter for good measure.

Huh? Why not use a drip tray?

Preferably one with a nozzle so you can pour used oil into the container that the new oil came in.

Agree with RBPOWA, drip tray under drain plug, release oil from sump, when finished draining re-position drip ray under oil filter, remove filter and drain into drip tray.

No mess, no fuss :banana:

Huh? Why not use a drip tray?

Preferably one with a nozzle so you can pour used oil into the container that the new oil came in.

Agree with RBPOWA, drip tray under drain plug, release oil from sump, when finished draining re-position drip ray under oil filter, remove filter and drain into drip tray.

No mess, no fuss :banana:

he means over the filter to catch those little drops that make ur engin bay look dirty... how much are oil filter relocation kits? the 260s is soooo much harder!

has any one used those new DRIFT filters? apparently they have a bolt on the back of them so if its too tight get a socket onto it and ur set!

Edited by chef_stagea
has any one used those new DRIFT filters? apparently they have a bolt on the back of them so if its too tight get a socket onto it and ur set!

So do the K&N oil filters, for about the same price.... and much higher quality (or so I am told by a mate who sells both)

yeah I usually do it as you both have described- but I think if your filter has an anti drainback valve this causes problems too - you will get a bit of spillage but not a massive amt

as above says XD drain the sump for good 10 mins :D then take filter off( a little bit will dribble ) then new filter sump washer and wash down sump and filter area new oil off you go :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...