Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

v35 paul - did you do an ECU reset when you installed it? maybe hence why the stock one is trying to "learn"

and on another note-----

is there any difference between the CF Z-Tube and the stock Z tube item? (besides looks of course) im mainly talking about quality etc. is the CF real carbon fibre or just an overlay... etc.

-mark

Edited by BLISTC
  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

v35 paul - did you do an ECU reset when you installed it? maybe hence why the stock one is trying to "learn"

and on another note-----

is there any difference between the CF Z-Tube and the stock Z tube item? (besides looks of course) im mainly talking about quality etc. is the CF real carbon fibre or just an overlay... etc.

-mark

Don't know how to reset the ECU.

The CF Z-Tube would have less heat soak then the stock Z tube and and any metal tube would have the more heat soak over time.

  • 3 weeks later...

So this morning i woke up and UPS man was at the door with a parcel.

Finally the Carbon Fiber Z Tube i had ordered 1 1/2 weeks ago had arrived. I ended up ordering it from www.thezstore.com and it was $195 AUD delivered at the time the exchange rate was around 75c

The Z Store's tube is actually sourced from www.evo-r.net but they are cheaper. Evo-R.net are the manufacturers of this Z Tube. It is made from real CF and it is really well made as well. I peeled off the EVO-R sticker which came off pretty easy and left no residue. I like it to look clean, and with under bonnet temps this sticker will just fall off over time anyway.......

3566383545_fb4ef53dd5.jpg

I went to work and got home around 11pm. I couldnt wait and seeing how easy the DIY was i decided to attempt this install.

It was a fairly simple and straight forward install. 15min later and i was done!

Finished the installation...... dammit i need to clean my engine bay!

3566383661_6c358c54f1.jpg

and here is the picture of the part it replaces.......

3566383809_08df4d7696.jpg

see it is just not all for looks, these things actually increase the air flow, due to the stock part having so many resonators for noise etc. and hence provide a very minimal increase in power (and they make lots of induction noise now too WOO!)

I really like doing DIY...... it feels very rewarding once the job is done (especially for a n00b like me) :)

-mark

Edited by BLISTC
So this morning i woke up and UPS man was at the door with a parcel.

Finally the Carbon Fiber Z Tube i had ordered 1 1/2 weeks ago had arrived. I ended up ordering it from www.thezstore.com and it was $195 AUD delivered at the time the exchange rate was around 75c

The Z Store's tube is actually sourced from www.evo-r.net but they are cheaper. Evo-R.net are the manufacturers of this Z Tube. It is made from real CF and it is really well made as well. I peeled off the EVO-R sticker which came off pretty easy and left no residue. I like it to look clean, and with under bonnet temps this sticker will just fall off over time anyway.......

3566383545_fb4ef53dd5.jpg

I went to work and got home around 11pm. I couldnt wait and seeing how easy the DIY was i decided to attempt this install.

It was a fairly simple and straight forward install. 15min later and i was done!

Finished the installation...... dammit i need to clean my engine bay!

3566383661_6c358c54f1.jpg

and here is the picture of the part it replaces.......

3566383809_08df4d7696.jpg

see it is just not all for looks, these things actually increase the air flow, due to the stock part having so many resonators for noise etc. and hence provide a very minimal increase in power (and they make lots of induction noise now too WOO!)

I really like doing DIY...... it feels very rewarding once the job is done (especially for a n00b like me) :)

-mark

EXCELLENT write up i needed this information. How does it sound. Are you going to get the rest of the intake , i.e. spacer and filter?

How is the quality are you happy with it ?

So this morning i woke up and UPS man was at the door with a parcel.

Finally the Carbon Fiber Z Tube i had ordered 1 1/2 weeks ago had arrived. I ended up ordering it from www.thezstore.com and it was $195 AUD delivered at the time the exchange rate was around 75c

The Z Store's tube is actually sourced from www.evo-r.net but they are cheaper. Evo-R.net are the manufacturers of this Z Tube. It is made from real CF and it is really well made as well. I peeled off the EVO-R sticker which came off pretty easy and left no residue. I like it to look clean, and with under bonnet temps this sticker will just fall off over time anyway.......

3566383545_fb4ef53dd5.jpg

I went to work and got home around 11pm. I couldnt wait and seeing how easy the DIY was i decided to attempt this install.

It was a fairly simple and straight forward install. 15min later and i was done!

Finished the installation...... dammit i need to clean my engine bay!

3566383661_6c358c54f1.jpg

and here is the picture of the part it replaces.......

3566383809_08df4d7696.jpg

see it is just not all for looks, these things actually increase the air flow, due to the stock part having so many resonators for noise etc. and hence provide a very minimal increase in power (and they make lots of induction noise now too WOO!)

I really like doing DIY...... it feels very rewarding once the job is done (especially for a n00b like me) :laugh:

-mark

VERY NICE~~~

let's make a GROUP BUY!!! who's interested?! :banana:

EXCELLENT write up i needed this information. How does it sound. Are you going to get the rest of the intake , i.e. spacer and filter?

How is the quality are you happy with it ?

the induction note is definitely louder as all the restrictive parts have been removed. you really only hear it in the upper rev ranges when you give it a bootfull....

as far as power goes, i really dont know cant tell. i already have a K&N Drop In Filter, i dont think i will spend the money on the popcharger etc. as when i get the supercharger it is pointless anyway

as far as quality goes, its pretty damn clean and nice. very well made.

the only gripe i have, is that the emissions tube is a bit further down and you have to like stretch the tube a bit further down, than where the stock item is placed. also you really need to stretch the accordian rubber parts in order to get a good fit, as IMO it doesn't line up as good as say the factory z tube.

-mark

Edited by BLISTC

Looks like you took out the resonator. Underneath the airbox correct ? Doesn't do too much, just quietens things down in terms of induction/engine noise.

I had mine blocked off but thought it hampered response, so unblocked it. I have no idea why, but maybe because the factory airbox design/flow relies on having the resonator there *shrugs*.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...