Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 499
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Anyone booked a room so i can crash on the floor? I can bring my own small matress and sleeping bag lol
yeah Luke you are welcome to camp on the floor of Sled and my room

LOL Luke, what's worse than sharing a prison cell with Bubba.........a motel room with Bubba and his twin!! :blink:

EDIT: ....and on that note....

dude, dont forget mitch hasnt had his car on the road for awhile...........so this weekend might mean something to him.

and steve, personally i would think if you have that attitude, then you shouldnt enter car shows. cause its just a show remember.

well doesnt look like im coming to kadina now

engine is missing a idler pulley and a tensioner pulley which i didnt get with the engine and the car is ment to be at Turbo Tune at 8am tomorrow

and the place everyone is staying at is booked out

one massive alotment of fail in my favour

Mitch, didn't you get the engine from Turbo Tune? If so, isn't it acceptable that they provide the pulleys and all to get the job done?

There will be more car shows anyway mate. Get the car done, don't rush, and set your sights on the next show.

:laugh:

Mitch, didn't you get the engine from Turbo Tune? If so, isn't it acceptable that they provide the pulleys and all to get the job done?

There will be more car shows anyway mate. Get the car done, don't rush, and set your sights on the next show.

:laugh:

Nah ruby ,i bought the engine off here (click) and the guy i got it off hasnt found any of the missing parts resulting in me having to go chase them down at wreckers and buy them.

ive already spent $1k on this engine without including the price i bought the motor its self for...

its been off the road for 5 months as of this Friday and i was planing it to be ready by then and in time for Kadina but that doesn't look like its going to happen at this stage ;)

mitch prob better anyway not to use kadina as a shake down run with your car, it would suck to break down out of town. are you still coming for a look see anyway?

highly doubt it right now , only have access to one car right now , which is why i need this back on the road

and steve, personally i would think if you have that attitude, then you shouldnt enter car shows. cause its just a show remember.

lol sorry im not 'the fast and the furious' enough. its just a show, if u make it, great, if not, so what. theres plenty of shows all year. but i guess if u get emo over something so insignificant..

and mitch, even if u did get ur car running, i wouldnt risk taking it all the way to kadina to run the engine in. there still may be a few bugs to iron out. and a tow back to adelaide would be an expensive experience.

woot woot cannot wait now.....time for the party to begin.....sucks to hear that off your ride Mitch....was really looking forward to seeing it in the show mate...but what can you do....just dont rush things thats the best to go forward mate....goodluck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...