Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have just transplanted the 25 into my VS commodore and got her driving yesterday.

And it has no balls at all... I think a Starfire may be able to take me off the line.

I have not done my diff yet, so it is still 3.08 which I know is very low, but the 4.11s will be in soon, but I think it should still have a bit more guts than what it has at he moment.

It is running very smoothly on all 6 cylinders, the fuel may be a little stale (4 months). It idles nicely. It isn't in Limp mode and will rev all day.

I have a FMIC, GReddy Intake plenum, 044 and adjustable Fuel Reg and T3/T4 Hybrid (POS, but no leaks), while these may attribute to the cause of problems, I would not have thought it be as bad as is.

I have turned my fuel reg down to a point where is seems to be between running rich or lean. I have my Z32 MAF removed and a stanard AFM plugged in. I would have though the computer would have compensated and adjusted for the new AIR and FUEL????

I had an eManage Ultimate, but have that off, as I want the thing running normally first before I get into the computer side of things.

What else could I look at?? Plugs? Injectors? Any sugestions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260423-rb25det-runs-like-shit/
Share on other sites

you have a skyline engine in a commodore .. thats your problem.

:) I would change the diff ratio to 4.39:1 before you start complaining about power. 3 is just wayyy too tall and it will feel like a megga dog regardless of power.

you have a skyline engine in a commodore .. thats your problem.

LOL, so do VLs... seems to work for them. Don't be rude. :) Its a match made in heaven.

Yeah, I had given some thought to the Diff, but I am not the first to venture the way of the 25 in a VS and the last guy I knew to do it, tested the car at first with the 3.08 and it pulled alright once it got going.

4.11 is standard for R33 yeah? If I can get 4.39.1 for a commodore the shorter gearing the better right?

I have had an RB25 running in my HQ for past two years, and an RB20 in it before that, like you said match made in heaven haha!

Did you change timing belt? When I first put a rb30e in my HQ it was a tooth out, ran awesome but was a slug. But the fact you said it revs well is probably suggesting it aint that. 4.39 is pretty high, I have 4.11's with auto and it revs like mad.

Good luck with it though.

I have had an RB25 running in my HQ for past two years, and an RB20 in it before that, like you said match made in heaven haha!

Did you change timing belt? When I first put a rb30e in my HQ it was a tooth out, ran awesome but was a slug. But the fact you said it revs well is probably suggesting it aint that. 4.39 is pretty high, I have 4.11's with auto and it revs like mad.

Good luck with it though.

Yes, I have a gates timing belt, brand spanker.

I may go with the 4.11s then. Cheaper too :)

you need more guages steve :)

glad my afm worked out for ya, just keep it in there until you get hold of one...

whats the kerb weight of a VS? only like 100kg's more then a 33 yeah?

Nah, I havent reset the ECU yet... how do you do that? That may be a half smart thing to do as it came off a halfcut... never now what the original owner was running... I have a couple of things to adjust around the place.

Thanks for the AFM. I may have also found another AFM (r33 1) cheap, so if I can grab that, that would be good.

Yeah, the VS is only like 100kg heavier, but the RB engine is lighter, so the car should be fairly balanced out with a 33 now.

the ecu should would have been reset when it came out of the halfcut... but since you have had it running with differing afm's etc...

just disconnect the battery and then hit the brake pedal until all residual charge is gone.... reconnect and let idle... it shoud relearn over a short period of time.... 20 mins or so i beleive

the ecu should would have been reset when it came out of the halfcut... but since you have had it running with differing afm's etc...

just disconnect the battery and then hit the brake pedal until all residual charge is gone.... reconnect and let idle... it shoud relearn over a short period of time.... 20 mins or so i beleive

Excellent, will do. It did take a small amount of time to find idle when I first had it running. So, it may have adjusted a small amount, but not a full reset.

I may have overlooked something in your original post, but what are the symptoms of "runs like shit"? You've said it runs smoothly, idles ok and will rev all day. What bit "runs like shit"?

You have an adjustable fuel reg - 1:1 or rising rate? If you don't have a pressure gauge on the fuel line, don't go playing with the fuel pressure - you risk leaning the mixture too far at the top end of the rev range.

You are running a stock RB25DET ECU? I don't think they work with Z32 AFMs (which I note you have replaced with a stock unit). And the stock ECU probably won't run too well with a rising rate FPR (top end will be far too rich).

You've checked the timing @ idle? The injectors are firing in the correct order? The sparkies are firing in the correct order?

I doubt you'll do much good here. Conversions need that "hands on" perspective.

Are you sure about the cam timing and IGN timing? Check it again.

Is your VVT actually working?

What actuator is on that turbo and what boost does it make?

Are your knock sensors/harness etc plugged in and working properly?

Did you give the ecu a speed signal?

Neutral switch connection to ecu open?

Use your stock AFM. The ecu has no capability to "learn" that you have fitted a Z32.

I find it odd with that turbo, FMIC and stock ecu you haven't had the R/R jerks.

Even with tall diff gearing, an Rb25 should get up and go in your lower gears once you make some boost.

I will check all these things after work guys and let ya know, thanks

I dont have the z32 AFM plugged in, I removed it once i pulled out my emanage.

I have a fuel gauge on the fuel line too.

Here is a photo of my reg for ref:

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images0...d29b4ad66a0.jpg

how much boost are you actually running? and also how old is the t3/t4 these things dont make much power with low boost and if the bearings are on their way out it wont make much power either

I recon the turbo is stuffed lol... not making boost. Could be the(internal) wastegate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...