Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I am a new here. ;)

I would need help from you guys who know the good repairers or repairers that are NRMA partner. My car has comprehensive insurance with NRMA.

Here is the story:

My car has been scratched by someone with the key. I went to one repairer and get the quote for $4000 to paint all the plastic things such as side mirrors, front bumper, spoiler and rear bumper.

He also charged NRMA another $4000 to repair for small four dents and scratches on bonnet, rear back panel on right side, guards and doors. They are just one line scratch but it's kind of drag to all panels.

I would need respray the whole car. Otherwise the plastic parts will look different with the repaint panel.

Do you think $8000 is a reasonable price to do so? (he charged me $4000 and another $4000 he charged to NRMA) :)

Should I spend more money to buy fiberglass and get paint rather than repairing the old one?

Actually, I am not asking who is the best repairer but just want to know the repairers that you guys used to repair with them.

you can PM me for your repairer details also.

Thank you. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260433-need-repairer/
Share on other sites

Yeah I agree 8K sounds a bit expensive for same colour.

I had a nasty accident about three years ago, which required half the car to be resprayed, so the insurance payed for that and I payed for the other half.

Not sure how much the total respray was but it was less than 8K.

I took it to an absolute top notch panel beater (Mercedes specialist) who did an amazing repair and total respray.

He's in Brookvale which is on the Northern Beaches, if you like I can send you some pics of my car and his details?

Just let me know.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260433-need-repairer/#findComment-4468740
Share on other sites

I've been through some paper work, I paid 2K cash (ie didn't go through the books) to have roughly half the car resprayed. My guess is they would charge about 5K for a total respray in the same colour.

You won't get a better job any where else.

Also the small dents on the bonnet should pop out with one of those paintless dent removal guys which cost fark all, and they do a good job if you go to some decent. My panel beater could organise this.

Only thing is I'm not sure if they deal with the NRMA, would need to check with them.

Is this an import your talking about? If so how did you get insured with the NRMA?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260433-need-repairer/#findComment-4468849
Share on other sites

I've been through some paper work, I paid 2K cash (ie didn't go through the books) to have roughly half the car resprayed. My guess is they would charge about 5K for a total respray in the same colour.

You won't get a better job any where else.

Also the small dents on the bonnet should pop out with one of those paintless dent removal guys which cost fark all, and they do a good job if you go to some decent. My panel beater could organise this.

Only thing is I'm not sure if they deal with the NRMA, would need to check with them.

Is this an import your talking about? If so how did you get insured with the NRMA?

Thank you for all replies. I brought my car back from that repairer already. They charged me $150 for their time to get the quotation. :)

Anyway, I am happy to bring it back and find some of your recommended repairers. :P

Regarding to your question, it's imported from Japan. I was trying to get the best insurance car dealer such as AAMI (but unfortunately they don't do insurance with imported cars and also some other companies). Finally, I ended up with NRMA including theif insurance but it costs me nearly $4000 p.a. I should change my insurance too ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260433-need-repairer/#findComment-4468918
Share on other sites

Yeah your insurance is a bit high.

I'm with Lumley Special Vehicles who are very reasonably priced, give you your own choice of repairer, and I've been very happy with their service. They also allow modifications

When I had my accident (not my fault) they were happy for me to take it to my regular panel beater (no other quotes etc required) who is not cheap (but does a top job).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260433-need-repairer/#findComment-4469029
Share on other sites

Sound's like you are being had.

I'm suprised that NRMA are letting you have a full respray.

I can claim most of the panels because the idiot did scratch all panels except left rear panel (he knew how to do the shit things). Luckily, there was not long scratch line but still need to repaint though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260433-need-repairer/#findComment-4469235
Share on other sites

Hi All,

I am a new here. :(

I would need help from you guys who know the good repairers or repairers that are NRMA partner. My car has comprehensive insurance with NRMA.

Here is the story:

My car has been scratched by someone with the key. I went to one repairer and get the quote for $4000 to paint all the plastic things such as side mirrors, front bumper, spoiler and rear bumper.

He also charged NRMA another $4000 to repair for small four dents and scratches on bonnet, rear back panel on right side, guards and doors. They are just one line scratch but it's kind of drag to all panels.

I would need respray the whole car. Otherwise the plastic parts will look different with the repaint panel.

Do you think $8000 is a reasonable price to do so? (he charged me $4000 and another $4000 he charged to NRMA) :)

Should I spend more money to buy fiberglass and get paint rather than repairing the old one?

Actually, I am not asking who is the best repairer but just want to know the repairers that you guys used to repair with them.

you can PM me for your repairer details also.

Thank you. :D

There is a really Good place in auburn........i think thats a bit out of your way if you live in darlinghurst..

this workshop has dont spectacular jobs...

they really look after you...

and thats no exageration either

few years back when my TT supra got totalled by some 60 yr old mongrel who t-boned me....

the car was practually a write off....

the smash repairs quoted 19,000$ to repair...... the insurance company wanted to fix it...cause the cars market value was around 30,000$ so it wouldve worked out better for them.

at the end of the day, had they fixed the car....it wouldve been a pile of shit anyways and never the same.

so what they did was they bought the car off me and gave me a check for 27,000$

cause he could see i really didnt want it anymore.... no one would do that.......

because he did me a big favour......i reccomend friends and family to him...

another mate of mine has a Black 200sx....

a truck oversteered into his rear quater panel...denting it... and he also removed the GT spoiler with a few rubber grommets sealing the holes.....

so they sprayed the doors, and the rear quater pannel of the car and the whole boot....so pretty much nearly half of the car. $850

and it actually looked pretty good you could never tell it was damaged...........

anyways let us know what you decide on or pm me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260433-need-repairer/#findComment-4469324
Share on other sites

I can claim most of the panels because the idiot did scratch all panels except left rear panel (he knew how to do the shit things). Luckily, there was not long scratch line but still need to repaint though.

Well it's actually up to the assessor to determin what needs to be done and approve the quotes. And knowing th NRMA they are the biggest tight arses ever.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260433-need-repairer/#findComment-4469485
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Por que no los dos? At least my euro brawler is reliable - unlike the JDMs I've had. Sheraaz you look familiar, did you ever come to an SAU VIC meet aaaaaages ago?
    • Drove to Cape Schanck to try to get a nice clear southern view over the ocean to see the lights a couple of days ago... instead got crappy cloud cover. Photo of a diorama of Hong Kong street scene. Taken on an iPhone 13 Pro Max.
    • Stock RB fuel pressure is near enough 43.5 psi, so the latency in that table at 31.6 will be close. You can see that 7 or 8 psi equates to about 0.4µs extra latency. So if you wanted to interpolate between the 31.6 and 39.9 psi values you could say you're going up about 2 psi out of those 8, so add about 0.1µs, which is barely worth talking about and is quite possibly wrong because ideally you would fix the latency while running at the appropriate conditions on the dyno, with a wideband sniffing its butt.
    • The pressure, is what you set the fuel pressure to. If you have the factory fuel reg, you'll need to find the factory spec. I don't know it off the top of my head, but someone else might.
    • For others, what GTSBoy states here should be paid attention. Why? Well lots of people play with different engines, and they LOVE to change things like remove AC, or steering pumps etc, and it lends to them needing to move the tensioner too. You want your tensioner, particularly those that are sprung or hydraulically tensioned, to be the first thing after the harmonic balancer, or technically the "last" pulley in the chain. By saying last pulley, I mean look at the direction the crank spins when the engine is running, follow the belt from where the crank is pulling the belt FROM, and keep following that until you're between the last pulley/accessory on the belt and about to reach the crank again, this is the spot where you put the tensioner. This is the area that will always end up with slack. This is worked out exactly the same way for chains too, as the physics is the same for them. The crank pulley is where all the force to drag the belt around comes from. You will never ever get rid of the slack that appears, especially under load. The tensioners job is to keep the belt loose enough when stationary that there shouldn't be out of sync movement in slow movement, and then be tight enough when running, that the belt can't jump off any gear and get damaged. Too tight, bad things happen, too loose, bad things happen. Have a tensioner (mainly sprung/hydraulic one) in the wrong spot, it can't actually do anything about keeping the tension.
×
×
  • Create New...