Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The Z445 is made by Ryco. IMO if you want a good filter, buy the Nissan OEM. With regards to engine oil, it's all debateable which is best, but as long as you change it often you should be fine...and it's probably not good to be constantly switching between synthetic and mineral, but changing over from one to the other a few times in the car's lifetime shouldn't make any discernable difference.

"Sludging" occurs when engine oil breaks down, usually because it's been left in the engine for too long, it's not really a chemical reaction that occurs when you mix oil types or viscoscities, though mixing oil is never the best idea. I think the factory specification for the VQ is somewhere along the lines of 5w30, which is quite thin. Most people with opt for a 5w40 or a 10w40 and go for a full synthetic.

Thanks alot it's appreciated,

Cheers Richard

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i think every 10,000km if you are using Fully syn oil,Like Mobil 1, Royal purple, Motul or even Amsoil.

6000km for a Semi syn or Mineral oil. I think Nissan use Mineral oil on our cars.

There's a sticker on my bonnet that was translated from Jap says change oil and oil filter every 12,000km. I always been using only fully Syn Oil. And the old oil still looked good after 12,000km. I don't drive hard much and usually travel 80kmh or more.

i think every 10,000km if you are using Fully syn oil,Like Mobil 1, Royal purple, Motul or even Amsoil.

6000km for a Semi syn or Mineral oil. I think Nissan use Mineral oil on our cars.

There's a sticker on my bonnet that was translated from Jap says change oil and oil filter every 12,000km. I always been using only fully Syn Oil. And the old oil still looked good after 12,000km. I don't drive hard much and usually travel 80kmh or more.

GAH! I had a ryco filter on my old S14 that leaked last year!

I ended up just tightening it until it stopped - coulda got $100 :domokun:

LOL!!! They did make me send them the filter so that they could check it was the filter. Hahahah! Good one.

  • 2 years later...

bit of a thread dig here, but I searched ebay for the K&N filter, part number HP-1008 - and the few results that turned up wanted like $60!!! I think these filters fit R35 GT-R's so they're asking GT-R prices.

FYI - I went on amazon.com and got the HP-1008 for $10. Ordered 3 of them, incl postage from the US for $44.

performancelub.com has them oretty cheap. Harold is around the corner from you as well.

Lots of it. Excellent prices as well. just jump on the website.

+1 Harold of PerformanceLub.com, great prices and selection of oils too! Got AMSoil 10w40 off him and I like it, will be trying German Castrol in the future as well. I'm curious about experiences with Martini Racing, Liquid-Moly and Elf oils, if anyone has used them before.

Edited by 81gSKy
  • 1 month later...

250GT uses Z547.

Its about 1/3 bigger than Z445, not sure if they are interchangeable?

They are. My 350gt had one of these on it when I bought it. Same thread, same diameter, about 20mm longer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...