Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

Not sure if this has been covered before but I am interested to see what people think of these two turbos and how they rate for value for money.

To my understanding a R34 highflow can make up to 260 rwkw with all the supporting mods on a RB25 with good response.

And a 2835 pro s can make safe power up to 270 rwkw with all supporting mods with good response aswell.

Now the punchline, R34 highflows go for around $1000 second hand (obviously double brand new) and the 2835 for over 3200 on Slide.

So thats almost similiar power for 1/3 of the price second hand!

Does anyone have of there own experiences to shed some light on this situation? I would love to hear how either of these turbos drive and what you think is the better buy.

Thanks,

Mike

a 2835 is good for more than that... many people have around 280rwkw...

i have 270rwkw on pulp and that's with an exhaust cam gear robbing my top end for a meatier bottom

the 2835 has great response (i'm @ 18psi by 3500)

on e85 i'm making 311rwkw @ 18psi.

personally if i had to buy it on today's prices i'd go a garrett 3071

what about that hypergear hiflow? It's not BB but it uses garett internals and new only costs $900 ? something to consider if on a tight budget ... that extra money can buy a lot of nice supporting mods :)

I guess it depends on the sort of rear housing that you do have. Some of RB25det Neos was released with .63 rear. The high flow can get even more power if that is the case.

If not then better off getting a GT2835Pro S.

Edited by hypergear

Good thread Michael, i will be watching this one as i will be looking an an upgraded turbo quite soon. But as there are so many options its tough to decide.....

But as lots of people say on here, do it once, do it right. So thinking of getting a turbo that is not MAXXED out, just for piece of mind.

But why a 3071? Sure a great turbo, but i plan to track my Rb25 and want to keep it fairly reliable so the 300rwkw a 3071 would easily give me would go to waste on a standard motor.

the HKS 2835ProS is a 56mm compressor with custom HKS turbine cover and 71mm 56 trim compressor, a GT3071 is (usually nowadays) a 60mm turbine in a garrett turbine housing and a 71mm 56 trim compressor. both 450hp compressors (more or less)

sounds pretty similar eh. the HKS turbine covers are a nice bit of kit but they cost a lot more money.

the hi-flows usually use a very similar 450hp compressor but the turbine is the probably the biggest limiting factor due to the factory turbine housing.

for 300rwkw then GT3076 is the most likely reliable way of getting there for a reasonable price.

But is it really worth it getting a 3071 or a 2835 when you can have a second hand highflow for 1/3 of the price and only 20kw less?

Is there that much of a difference in feel between these turbos hence the much higher price tag?

i think you are comparing three glasses of mainstream beer and wondering which one is better.

they are all good choices (assuming 2nd hand hi-flow is in good nick).

they all taste about the same.

they all get the job done.

the biggest issue is that the hi-flow may make a little less power up top (or it may not) but should be pretty line ball down low and mid BUT it should bolt straight on. factory oil, water lines, intake and dump pipe all bolt back on exactly.

the GT3071 and HKS units will have various levels of fiddling around to get it fitted and running potentially adding to the expense.

so if you are happy with 240-250rwkw and save >$1000 then it is hard to argue for spending more money when you will probably spend less than 5% of your time on WOT.

there are heaps of threads on these turbos so it is going to come down to a personal choice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
×
×
  • Create New...