Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

r33 is 1370kg, i'm unsure whether that's the weight of a series 1 with no kit or s2 with airbags, fat ass'd bars ect ect.

There's got to be 100kg's difference between the naked s1 and the s2, I cant see where they've saved weight to make up for the all that extra crap..

Arrrgh hand me the harpoon...the s2 has breached :pirate:

33's are big heavy whales. :pirate:

This made me laugh.. went it comes from a guy that drives a old skool r31 that weights in the same or heavier then a r33....

Well, I'd back the guys up that says stock/ LIGHTLY MODDED 'boltons' Skyline GTS-T would run low 13's 'driver dependant i must say also'.

If you did put a rb25det in ya datto... traction would be the only issue and if you could get a decent amount it'd be pretty impressive in such

a smaller/light chassis

This made me laugh.. went it comes from a guy that drives a old skool r31 that weights in the same or heavier then a r33....

Well, I'd back the guys up that says stock/ LIGHTLY MODDED 'boltons' Skyline GTS-T would run low 13's 'driver dependant i must say also'.

If you did put a rb25det in ya datto... traction would be the only issue and if you could get a decent amount it'd be pretty impressive in such

a smaller/light chassis

i've had a 33 before dude, i know what they are like

my 31 might weigh 1440kg, but 33's are still whale's. :pirate:

So it seems that in the mid 13's is about what you'd get from a mildly tampered RB25DET. That's not so bad. My current motor is L28 out of 280z and they are heavy. If anyone should hear of a decent motor and accessories as in a full front and manual box, cut I'd be happy to hear about it. Enclosed is pic of my motor at present. So a R33 weighs 1370 or 1490kg ? post-44326-1237294305_thumb.jpg

Yea it all comes down to tires and driver..

example.. me doing (14.2 * 14.6 * 14.3) when i got the car with tirese as is then i put new tires on and i got (13.6 * 13.9 * 14.1) but that was stock with a full xorst now with piggy back and boost and fmic, pod, 040 fuel im doing 12.9 as my best with 239rwkw about 315hp and all with a sound systerm too in the boot so is actuly gives me better traction with the weight.. id like to think so

So it seems that in the mid 13's is about what you'd get from a mildly tampered RB25DET. That's not so bad. My current motor is L28 out of 280z and they are heavy. If anyone should hear of a decent motor and accessories as in a full front and manual box, cut I'd be happy to hear about it. Enclosed is pic of my motor at present. So a R33 weighs 1370 or 1490kg ? post-44326-1237294305_thumb.jpg

rb25's are quite hefty too, i'm not sure on exact figures, but they are a cast iron block.

also the 25 box is quite large, so you may have clearance issues with the transmission tunnel?

my 31 came from factory with a 20det, and now has a 25det + 25 box, and it required a little bit of massaging to fit in the tunnel (and its still a tight fit)

what box does your car have?

i've had a 33 before dude, i know what they are like

my 31 might weigh 1440kg, but 33's are still whale's. :pirate:

33s are nothing compared to Supras

they feel heavier, less nimble, clumsy

they should be the whale, 33 are dolphins in comparison

I think the confusion in weight comes from the dry weight versus the wet weight. 1390kgs is the dry weight, no fluids. Fill the tank, oil, radiator etc and it get's you to the 1470kg mark. A good tip when drag racing is not to fill the tank, even the extra 40-50kgs, spare tyre etc can make a difference to the ET.

I think the confusion in weight comes from the dry weight versus the wet weight. 1390kgs is the dry weight, no fluids. Fill the tank, oil, radiator etc and it get's you to the 1470kg mark. A good tip when drag racing is not to fill the tank, even the extra 40-50kgs, spare tyre etc can make a difference to the ET.

:D

I think the confusion in weight comes from the dry weight versus the wet weight. 1390kgs is the dry weight, no fluids. Fill the tank, oil, radiator etc and it get's you to the 1470kg mark. A good tip when drag racing is not to fill the tank, even the extra 40-50kgs, spare tyre etc can make a difference to the ET.

Yeah lol Paul :D

R33's are 1370kg, some variations in the different series and cars that came with A-LSD and that. But this guy wants to know the weight of the engine not the actual car....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...