Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd steer clear man.

Some Chinese parts are okay, like downpipes and whatnot, but I wouldn't put my faith in something mechanical that could fail easily and trash your engine.

Just my point of view.

ive been using one for over 2 years now no problem. holds what ever boost i want it to (14psi and up). Just lap the valve into the seat to give it a decent seal and have had no dramas

the jjr ones look like a straight copy of the HKS units, I looked at 'em, but found a s/h HKS unit that I rebuilt - it was a bit more expensive than a chinese knock off, but it was worth it [and it was way cheaper than a new HKS one].

Tial and such aren't that expensive anyway, your only saving a $100-200 total.

You may get a result, but its consistency you want.

CHEAP-FAST-RELIABLE <- you can only have 2.

If its cheap, might go fast but wont be reliable.

If is fast and reliable, it wont be cheap

so on

You may get a result, but its consistency you want.

CHEAP-FAST-RELIABLE <- you can only have 2.

If its cheap, might go fast but wont be reliable.

If is fast and reliable, it wont be cheap

so on

Spoken like a true salesman of expensive parts :ermm:

I also run 50mm HKS Copy chinese gate from the states and it works perfect. 14psi spring with boost controller i run 20psi no creep constant strong boost to redline.. thats been on nearly a year now without a drama.Its not rocket science in design seriousily.

Edited by l0WRB

I had a faulty one on a SR20 running a T70. one of the grub screws that hold the valve into the diaphram hat fell out and was leaking manifold pressure like an internal bleed valve. The result was the first time I held the car on full load the boost short past 25lb. It was very exciting for about 1 second till luckily a hose blew off and it save it all from certain death.

Granted putting the grub screw back in properly did solve the problem and it was able to regulate to 20lb with a 38mm gate just fine, but still Id never buy one again.

Get a turbosmart ultra gate or something Jap brand named and you dont have to worry about dodgy assembly quality.

* yep cheap gates are the best.....

* Only for apllications where overboosting, stuck bypass valves and burst/split diaphragms are needed. In fact they are perfect for those wishing to let thier engine expire prematurely.

please dont bring them anywhere near me (unless they are fully sorted) as the amount of times ive had to send customers home to repair / replace dodge chinese wastegates is unbelievable.

Edited by URAS

A wastegate is a very simple device, it's only a matter of time before the "chinese" develop one with the proper materials. That's said I wouldn't run one of those "chinese" gates just yet.

I run a Synapse 50mm gate which doesn't have a traditional diaphragm design and has built in boost settings. Oh yeah.. it's made in China :D

Edited by maximajim

I dunno it seems kinda silly to cut corners there when a shitty one could potentially wreck a $3000+ engine build. I'd be cutting corners more on say the intercooler and exhaust than something which is regulating boost pressure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...